The island has three tips: the north one, towards Volimes, the southeast towards Vasilikos, and the southwest towards Keri. Olive trees and vines make the land beautiful and offer their rich produce to the locals and the visitors (if you manage to visit in Easter you’ll be amazed by the blooming gardens of the houses in the valley, and by the countryside flooded with colours) while if there’s something truly distinctive about the island is its clear turquoise waters.
The caretta caretta turtle (loggerhead sea turtle) has chosen Zakynthos as its nesting land, and that’s why there exist fully protected zones. Leaving the island’s capital behind, we’ll take you on a long tour of the island’s beaches and inland, while we’ll also give you more than enough tips to organise your holidays.
The Laganas phenomenon
The bay of Laganas, one of the largest sandy beaches in Europe, and extremely popular amongst British tourists, couldn’t be missing from your itinerary, even if just for one day or one quick swim. You can have Cuban cocktails while listening to great music at ‘Havana’ – the beach bar that the Greeks particularly love.
On the right side of the bay, you can visit the small island Cameo that is linked to the main island by a nice wooden pedestrian bridge, and if you’re lucky, you might come across a turtle, horrified, looking at the humans, with their mobiles in hand. If you choose to stay for the night, the ‘Laganas by night’ phenomenon includes hundreds of girls and boys dancing wildly, going from one club to the next, and even in the middle of the street, dancing endlessly, and also aimlessly.
Two recommendations for your drink are ‘Kafenio’ and ‘Cheers Beach Bar’ that has tables and chairs in the sea, combined with the moonlight the result is just dreamy. And if you’re feeling hungry, ‘Sizzle Bang Grill’ is the place for you.
Relaxation in Vasilikos
This village in Zakynthos is surrounded by pine trees and is right next to lovely sandy beaches. This is where you’ll find the more cosmopolitan beach bars & clubs of the island, with the undeniable leader being ‘Ammos Beach Club’ (2695035000) that has been renovated and everything has been painted white with little boho touches, and has swings, hammocks, beds and sunbeds, offers food and drinks and is ideal for selfies or drone shots at the chapel next door. A gem location in Vasilikos is the sandy beach Porto Azzûro with the unique rock formation and the beach bar of the same name (2695035217) that offers good food – it’s particularly popular with young couples who have their wedding reception here. There are two more very popular bars of the Zakynthiot ‘beach bar culture’, ‘Casa Playa’ (casaplaya.gr) and ‘Banana Beach’ (bananabaya.gr) with exactly what you imagine: a great beach, sunbeds, celebrities, parties and…racket ball.
Daytrip to Gerakas
In the wider area of Vasilikos it’s worth dedicating a whole day to the beach Gerakas, the most beautiful beach on the island. Don’t go for less than a whole day, though the marine park’s guards will turn you away relatively early, as it’s one of the fully protected areas. You’ll see cages protecting nests in the sand, and you might come across a turtle on her way to lay her eggs. That’s the reason you must by no means dig in the sand or leave children unattended. The sunbeds and umbrellas here are very expensive – be prepared – but this particular beach is more than worth it.
In Gerakas you’ll see a rock that has been eaten away by Zeus – according to the myth – and don’t forget to bring a sunblock with a high SPF, water, and snacks. Before leaving Vasilikos, make sure you go to Porto Roma or Porto Zoro where you’ll go for lunch and a swim, while the best choice for dinner in the village is the only authentic Italian restaurant on the island, ‘Da Camîllo’ (2695035149), but you need to make a reservation in time.
A trip to the mountain
Map in hand, the trip to the mountainous part of the island is very interesting both on a hiking level and on a gastronomic level. At the extremely small Agalas look for the twelve Wells of Andronios, who – according to local legend – was a 300 m. tall dragon, that Damianos, the good lord and protector of the village, forced to build the wells – one for each month of the year so that the village had water. Here, every August a large panigiri (religious festival dedicated to the church’s patron saint) takes place, Zakynthiot in nature, that is with mandolins and guitars, where you’ll dance the local dance and eat roast goat, fytoura (Greek fried semolina pudding) and eftazimo (a traditional bread prepared on festive occasions). These are the main characteristics of the island’s panigiri, so if there is one during your stay you must go. At Agalas, you can see the two-storey cave Damianos, next to the tavern of the same name (6946510549, cavedamianoszante.com) that offers great Greek cuisine and where you can see an amazing sunset – one of the few spots on the island where you can see the West, due to the mountain mass of Vrachionas.
Whatever time during the day you find yourself in Kiliomenos you must definitely go eat at ‘Ampelostrates’, as it’s the most authentic tavern on the island: its carrot and courgette salad is legendary, like all the other strange dishes you can have there, as Antonis, the owner, and his wife, who is a painter, both love their village and good food. Another reason to visit Kiliomenos is because a bit further away from the village you’ll have the chance to visit the unique Korakonisi; it’s an unexpected natural formation with a huge hole on the steep rock and the sea goes in it. Soft shoes are a must, and you need to be very very careful because climbing down to the spot is dangerous.
Next stop: Agios Leontas, a traditional village with picturesque alleys, white-washed buildings with red tiled roofs, and amazing views, and then back into the car for a ten-minute drive to Porto Limnionas. A remote spot that the locals and the visitors love for diving off the rock into the endless blue. You’ll be lucky if when you visit there aren’t too many people as it has long stopped being a secret.
Remaining on the mountain, there’s another beautiful little village worth seeing: Exo Hora with a lovely square right out of an old movie, with a huge plane tree in the middle and a burgundy traditional house – a jewel in its own right – adding to the frame.
Land and sea at Keri
Keri is on the other ‘leg’ of Zakynthos, in the southeast, and it’s known for its lake which of course is the sea. A place for a nice swim, and food in the surrounding taverns, while renting a boat is must (with or without a someone to drive it) so you can visit Keri’s caves and Mizithres, and especially Marathonisi that has the shape of a turtle and also happens to be a caretta caretta fully protected zone. A stop at Marathonisi for 2-3 hours, as that’s the maximum one can stay due to the sun, feels like going on a trip to an exotic destination, the nature is gorgeous, pristine, and so is the sea. On your way back in the boat, you can stop at the pebbled Marathia beach that is extremely hard to spot, unless you’re friends with a local.
Back to Keri, head towards the village, find an Italian station on the radio, as they have perfect reception from Italy, and get ready to take three must photos: the largest flag in the world (a Guinness record), the beautiful sunset, and a selfie with Mizithres (the biggest trend after the Shipwreck) that are two vertical rocks in the sea, like Faraglioni in Capri.
To Volimes and beyond
The last route has Volimes as its destination, but it passes through Tsilivi and Alykes first, two ideal – in my opinion – areas for family vacations. Let me explain what I mean by that: lots of lodgings and large sandy eastern beaches with shallow waters. The only con being the sprawling buildings. In Tsilivi you must definitely eat at the tavern ‘Paradisos’ (2695028753), the oldest and best in the area, right next to the sea. In Alykes, that is the seaport of Katastari – the largest village of Zakynthos – you can see the pentokamaro (five arched) bridge and you can eat at ‘Paradosiako’ (2695083412) that serves Greek food in a nice environment. After your swim at the huge beach of Alykes you’ll go up to the tavern ‘Asteria’ (2695084059) for your lunch or a beer by the mulberry tree.
After that, the road to Agios Nikolaos of Volimes is strewn with lovely little bays, mostly pebbled, that are definitely worth visiting: from Pelagaki with the remarkable rock formation on part of the beach that is particularly loved by Italians, Xigia with the sulphurous smell and the freezing waters, and Makris Gialos that is not at all long (makris in Greek means long) but has amazing green waters, to Mikro Nisi that overlooks a small islet, Agriosikia, and of course to the stunning Νobelos, in an area covered in pine trees all the way down to the waterfront, an elegant restaurant and bar (‘Nobelos Seaside Lodge – Bio Restaurant’ 2695031400), with two small bays that will make you feel like royals just for being there. From here you can enjoy the view of another island, Megalo or Vatikano – because until recently it belonged to the Vatican – you’ll order the best pasta with sea urchin and squid ink in Zakynthos, you’ll eat the divine Nobelos salad, and then you’ll take a sweet nap on the bean bags by the sea, or watch the sailing boats silently pass by in the distance and the yachts dropping anchor so that the VIP passengers can taste the restaurant’s exceptional dishes. As for dessert, the magic hands of Fotini make amazing handmade ice cream in incredible combinations like tangerine/pine and many others that you must try.
Agios Nikolaos little bay is nearby and you can catch a ferry there to Pessada, Kefalonia. You can also rent a boat here with a captain, or book a seat on ‘Actipis Cruises’ (6979943254) to visit the popular Blue Caves and then the famous Shipwreck. Before heading there it’s best to call them to see if the weather is suitable and to reserve your place.
The driving route to the northernmost point of the island continues a bit more toward the Lighthouse at Skinari, among a wild landscape with dozens of mansions perched all around.
The little village Askos is also nearby and it has a lovely park, the ‘Askos Stone Park’ (2695031650) with indigenous plants and wildlife, as well as a collection of ancient stone constructions. When you’re done with your nature walk at the park, you must have chicken or rabbit roast at the ‘Palios Anemomilos’ (2695031555) tavern in the same village. They offer traditional dishes, that have been so well cooked as if by a home cook. The lovely ‘Emerald Villas & Suites’ (emerald-villas.gr, 2695032006) are also in Askos and they offer star accommodation.
*Katerina Drimis was born in Kefalonia to Zakynthiot parents, she graduated from the Journalism Workshop in Athens, she’s worked in newspapers and at the General Secretariat of Press. She returned to her island in 1990 where she remains to this day. She hosts a daily radio show on Bravo 89,6 FM and she also has a flower shop – both named “Defiantly blooming”.
