Halkidiki may be closely associated with the summer, with the beautiful beaches, the luxury resorts, and tourism. However, Halkidiki is so much more. It’s all those things that make a destination a year-round destination and give the visitor the sweet feeling of satisfaction. It’s mountainous Halkidiki, it’s the cottage industries, it’s the stories of people unfolding one after another as one goes from one village to the next, it’s the lush hospitable mountains, the beaches that even in the winter have a nice story to tell.
When I walk on these amazing beaches, I think of mount Cholomondas’ cool, of its forests with the oak trees and the firs. I remember a stop I made at “kazanemata” the local festival during the preparation, in a large boiling pot, of “mountovina”, the local tsipouro (traditional pomace raki) with honey.
I can still taste the fragrant mushrooms from the mountain slopes, around the mountainous village of Taxiarchis. This is the Halkidiki with the stone-built houses of Parthenonas, and of the cobbled gardens of the traditional settlements. A walk around Arnea, brings us in front of the “sahinisia” those enclosed wooden house extensions, and also in front of the amazingly bright colours of Macedonian architecture.
In such a setting I think beyond the ordinary, of those unexpected morning dips, when the sun it’s just rising behind Mount Athos, but also of those endless conversations by the calm sea, when the sun is beginning to set behind mount Olympus.
Speaking of Mount Athos, you can reach the monasteries’ spirituality whether you visit one of them or take a boat tour around the peninsula. It’s this otherworldly element that makes us all wonder in front of the unknown and makes us place our hopes wherever each of us feels calm.
This trip to beloved Halkidiki has the fragrance of the fir forest in Diaporo, a tiny little island with warm, clear, turquoise waters all year long, where the exotic Myrsini beach, also known as Hawaii, is located. It’s right across from Vourvourou, in Sithonia, while there are some more smaller islands in the area, like Peristeri, Prasonisi, Agios Isidoros, Abelitsi and Kalogria.
Right before grape harvest
Right now, more seasonable than ever, I’m in a vineyard overlooking the Tower of Ouranoupolis, and I notice that the grapes are almost ready to be harvested. The flavours and fragrances of the wines of this land, that will travel the world, whispering stories about their truth and authenticity. Asyrtiko, Athiri, Malagouzia, Limnio, Hamburg Muscat and Xinomavro, as well as many more international varieties like Syrah and Grenache Rouge will be poured into glasses and we’ll toast to the good life, and to each experience’s authenticity. The historic wineries, that have set the course of winemaking in Greece, as well as the small modern winemaking units making their own mark in terms of flavour and hospitality, are our guides here. Glass in hand, we discuss a huge chapter of this place’s philosophy and tradition: gastronomy. A table with examples of its gastronomy would include a traditional fish soup prepared using a recipe from Mount Athos, stuffed vine leaves (dolmadakia), as well as stuffed courgette flowers. It would also include steamed mussels from the clear waters of Olympiada, as well as sea figs and limpets (both shellfish), and octopus balls, all bringing flavours of the sea to the table. Various fragrant greens, exceptional dairy products made from local milk, and also the amazing local meat all create a unique gastronomy product, of great quality and nutritious value.
At the magnificent Taxiarchis
A day trip will make you forget the impression that Halkidiki is just its beaches. Instead, you’ll head north, and uphill, towards the village of Taxiarchis and the University Forest of the same name. It’s located in the southwest slopes of mount Cholomondas, and it consists of various tree species, like oaks, beeches, pines, firs, as well as strawberry trees, oak bushes, heather etc. The Forest Museum is located here, and it houses exhibitions about the area’s flora and fauna. Among the wild animals that live in the forest there are wild boars, wolves, foxes, ferrets, weasels, badgers, wild cats, hawks, partridges and bats. Safe walking paths go through the forest, and you can go on a hike on one of them, with right equipment and presence of guides. Don’t lose track of time, as the area’s taverns offer some of the most delicious local recipes.
Aristotle’s “Physics”
Time for experiments and fun at Aristotle’s Park. The great Greek philosopher Aristotle was born in Ancient Stageira and, in 1956, they put up a statue of him near the village to honour him. This spot grew to become a beautiful, educational park that houses a number of interactive experimental instruments, that are based on Aristotle’s writing, and more particularly on the work “Physics”. The instruments include a compass, a telescope, a prism, a sun clock, a lens, a pentaphone, optical discs, and a pendulum.
Halkidiki’s honey
The fragrant plants and the rich flora combined with the clean environment make the mountainous part of Halkidiki the ideal place for beekeepers and for the creation of honey of great quality. Look for local honey at the area’s stores – especially in Arnea – and taste them so you can find your favourite.
The Archanthropus of Petralona
The important history of the area is clearly shown from the exhibits of the Archaeological Museum of Polygyros. Three permanent exhibitions, one with findings from the area’s most important archaeological sites, a second with findings from the three colonies of Andros in Halkidiki, Stageira, Akanthos and Sani, and the third that consists of the Lambropoulos collection. The Lambropoulos collection includes local clay figurines and busts, and bronze pots and jewellery. Also, this is the location of one of the most important caves of the country, the Petralona cave, where in 1960 the Archanthropus skull was discovered, whose age is estimated at around 700.000 years! Won’t you go for a visit?
Whichever road you choose, Halkidiki always has something new to show you. You just need to look for it. Enjoy!
