Early in the morning, in the “shadow” of one of the cruise ships that sail by the hundreds every year in Mykonos, a traditional Greek boat is ready to depart.
Passengers –mostly locals- board the wide, curved, carpeted deck, making themselves comfortable in every corner, after leaving their backpacks and bags with all the essentials in a safe place. The sail across to the other side of Mykonos, Rineia, takes about half an hour, but the minimal swell of the sea makes the crossing very interesting. Everyone is in a state of joy, exchanging news with a look of excitement on their faces.
The short excursion across, to the pastures and –for many- to their roots, provides a respite from the daily toil and strain of working on the island. It sounds strange but many residents of Mykonos do not have time to meet during the summer, not even their relatives, as their professional obligations reach a frenetic pace.
The carpets on the deck are clean, comfortable. They have been laid out to prevent the livestock from slipping during their transfer from here to there and back again. This same vessel carries people and animals, making the mystique of the tradition even more apparent.
Arriving in the small port of Rineia, the incredibly clear and emerald-coloured waters overwhelm you; a natural pool with wonderfully cool and salty water, unpolluted by any tourist exploitation.
The vehicles that take us to the other side of the island, to the small settlement with the church, where the service of the day will be held, are various tractors of different colours and models. Their carts are quickly filled with people and goods, and they set off at a lazy, slow pace so as not to raise dust, like a strange convoy of pilgrims from a holy place. For some people Rineia is just that, a sacred place of their ancestors, of their history, of their childhood, of their hard rural but carefree life. At the dancing tempo of the cart that bounces gaily in every puddle, giggles escape spontaneously, since the feeling is similar to that of an old-fashioned amusement park swing.
In the small settlement, with the few scattered houses, the church of Agia Triada prevails. It stands modestly, humble but also very beautiful. Everyone wears the masks of the Covid-19 era. Mass can be heard from inside, while the bread of offerings is spread out in the small courtyard. It all happens in silence and reverence, simply, as it befits such a place. This annual three-day Holy Spirit celebration –holy to each of us for different reasons- is an opportunity for families to gather around a table, remember their loved ones who are no longer around, relax and enjoy delicious local delicacies to the sound of music coming from the woofer of a Wi-Fi sound system.
Dolmades (stuffed vine leaves), baby goat with potatoes roasted in a wood-fired oven, pork with kale, locally sourced tomatoes and cheese, homemade flavours sprinkled with the joy of hospitality. There is a place for everyone, for relatives, friends and for those who wish to become friends. The beach of Agia Triada, a five-minute walk away, offers a feeling that transcends time. Nature reveals itself and evokes memories. The feel of the water on the skin makes each time seem like the first time. The pristine nature of Rineia demands respect, preservation, protection. The knowledge of the history of the island reveals the love and need of the people over time to be here, in Diles, in the complex of islands and islets west of Mykonos, either as a commercial centre as it was in ancient times, or as a natural, protected area in the times of profligacy we live in.
Thanking the few locals who will remain on the island, one can see their emotions shine on their faces when they perceive the visitors’ respect and understanding. There is always the option to the return to the harbour on foot, if the heat allows it. The large lizards, elegant descendants of our planet’s prehistory, watch passers-by idly in complete stillness, as if camouflaged, peculiar security cameras. All-white structures, necessary farmhouses, which are enviable in their simplicity and functionality, sparsely break the yellow background of the fields. The Cyclades still exist here in their original form.
Coming back to Mykonos, to the same spot where we started, you feel like you are suddenly in the heart of Athens. Before long, the beauty of Mykonos once again captures the senses; a beauty very different from that of Rineia. The view from here is wonderfully soothing and comforting. Thank goodness it exists.
