We head northwest, where beauty is in full bloom and at the same time a well-kept secret. For once you arrive unique images await you that you’ll hardly ever forget.
We are in Western Macedonia, in Amyntaio, Florina, where four lakes with their own microclimate eagerly offer unique images of pure natural beauty. Vegoritis, Zazari, Petron and Chimaditis; a whole universe, vibrant, charming, friendly, earthy, intense and authentic, which, together with the surrounding area, automatically turns every visitor into a lover of the entire region.
Beautiful lush green vineyards spread around the four lakes, producing unique wines that bring the true flavours of the region to the world. At the same time, there are shelters for rare birds and a rich and impressive fauna. The ideal setting is complemented by the orchards that, when in bloom, the landscape looks like something out of an Emily Dickinson poem, while the fruits on the trees are waiting on the plains to fill endless baskets. The setting also features prehistoric lakeside settlements, lively Byzantine churches, thermal baths and a sweet, warm coolness that welcomes and embraces any visitor.
The plain with the apple trees
To take things from the beginning, I clearly remember the first time I passed through the town of Amyntaio in Florina, on my way to this magical place. We were strolling through apple orchards that were full of crimson pomes. A little further up, the peach trees were doing their best to grow the best drupes and the whole plain was adorned with juicy, ripe and fragrant fruits.
Lake Vegoritis
We explored every corner of Vegoritis with a “plava”, the characteristic keel-less boat of the area, and watched in awe as fairy-tale images open up before our eyes, like the ones we so often create in our minds. While we were docking at the pier, a group of children were competing in diving. The power of the water was present and catalytic. Vegoritis is one of the deepest lakes in the country, reaching a depth of 50 metres, and is located at an altitude of 500 metres. Carps, tenches, roaches and pikes live in these waters, while dozens of birds find shelter in the wetland formed on the lake’s banks, such as the Dalmatian pelicans and Lanner falcons.
The Alpha Estate vineyards
We crossed dozens of acres of vineyards on the trailer of a car and pulled up where the view of the lakes provided the perfect backdrop for the lush green vineries. We passed the imposing gate of the Alpha Estate, situated in the very heart of the vineyard, while mellow and translucent grapes gave the promise of a stand-out wine. There, Makis Mavridis and Angelos Iatridis were waiting for us. Two amazing wine connoisseurs who chose the region of Amyntaio to create their own wine universe. We tasted wines with a deep aftertaste, with the intensity of mountain vineyards and varieties as expressed in the unique terroir of Western Macedonia.
Lake Chimaditis
Fed by the nearby Lake Zazari, Lake Chimaditis, which in turn feeds Lake Petron through a canal, is part of the lake network of the area. The lake owes its name to the fact that it used to be a place where farmers from the surrounding mountainous areas, along with their cattle, would overwinter here, thanks to its mild climate. The lake constitutes today a very important ecosystem and is the most important breeding site for the Ferruginous duck, which is considered an endangered species. Lake Chimaditis, as well as the neighbouring Lake Zazari, belong to the Natura 2000 network. As its depth does not exceed 3.5 metres, Chimaditis is a very shallow lake.
Lake Petron
Located at an altitude of 560 metres, Lake Petron has its own microclimate. Many bird species breed here, including some rare ones such as the pygmy cormorant. The presence of the Ferruginous duck is also important here. The rare sea eagle often passes over the lake, while occasionally the lesser white-fronted goose roosts in the meadows around the lake. The lake is up to 5 metres deep, while in winter it often freezes over. Hills to the north and fertile fields along the lake shores; Lake Petron offers a diverse and glorious landscape.
Lake Zazari
Lake Zazari is one of the most important wetlands in Macedonia, also part of the Natura 2000 network. Located at an altitude of just over 600 metres, Zazari is a shallow lake that often freezes over in winter. On its banks, sits Limnohori, a charming lakeside settlement. Seven species of amphibians, 185 species of frogs, numerous reptiles and several species of fish have been recorded here. Dominated by herons and long-legged buzzards, Lake Zazari is a paradise for bird watching enthusiasts.
Regional Flavours
If you want to taste the regions exceptional flavours, “The tavern of Thomas” in the village of Sklithro is an ideal choice. Housed in a traditional house that looks like an old mansion of a rich merchant of the last century, decorated with furniture that could have arrived by ship from Central Europe, “Thomas’ Tavern” is today famous and award-winning. They welcomed us once again to guide us on a gastronomic tour filled with flavours that concentrate all the intensity of the Balkan Mountains, the creativity of a bold cook and of course a wine cellar that features the most impressive labels from dozens of winemakers, who have contributed to the wine miracle of Western Macedonia. Local products in light and subversive textures, modern and airy desserts bearing the charm of the East, and of course Xinomavro wine (the principal red wine grape of the uplands of Amyntaio).
Second stop: Xino Nero village near Amyntaio. We decided to try the new generation of Xinomavro wine at the famous restaurant “Kontosoros”, founded by the late Nikos Kontosoros, a famous chef who highlighted the local West Macedonian cuisine and introduced it throughout Greece. Wines of the well-known variety, but more well-rounded, milder, friendlier, which can be paired even with light dishes, or can be consumed alone. Some of them turned out to be real meditation wines. Of course along with beef cheeks, the famous Macedonian mushrooms and airy celeriac puree. And as a dessert, unforgettable sweet hilopites (Greek egg pasta).
Near Lake Vegoritis, at the village of Agios Panteleimonas, “Naoumidis Restaurant” combines excellent food with impeccable views of the lake.
