Recently getting first place in the London Times’ list of “Top 25 Lesser-Known Greek Islands”, Alonnisos is a haven ideal for nature-lovers, especially outdoorsy travellers seeking old-school holiday tranquillity, quaint villages, beautiful swims, cultural expeditions and delectable local cuisine. It’s perfect for excursions to rich historical sites, laid back family holidays on scenic sandy beaches with warm, shallow waters, and invigorating hikes along trails weaving through lush landscapes and pretty coastlines with arresting views.
When thinking of Alonnisos, its impressive National Marine Park usually comes to mind. Established in 2003, it is home to the Monachus Monachus Mediterranean monk seal and a multifaceted variety of rare flora and fauna, which attract visitors of all ages from around the world. Numerous species of animals live in the area, harmoniously coexisting with the people who look after and visit this beautiful and vital habitat.
Following years of challenges, local authorities managed to generate an effective stratergy to globally identify Alonissos as the alluring eco-destination that it is. Indeed, when in 2015 Alonnisos took the pioneering decision to completely ban the use of plastic bag on the island, it set an example that is gathering momentum in the rest of Greece. It’s not by chance that about two years ago, ABTA Magazine ( a leading travel industry publication) rated Alonnisos in second place as one of the most eco-friendly destinations in the world.
Exploring the island
The Hora, or main town, Patitiri (which means wine press), is linked to the island’s wine production, something that Alonnisos was famed for from antiquity until the mid-1950s, when unfortunately ‘phylloxera’, a pest that eats away at the roots of vines and withers its leaves, destroyed almost all of Alonissos’s grapes. Another disaster beset the town in 1965 in the form of a devastating earthquake. It had to be almost completely rebuilt thus its current newish architectural style. Upper Hora’s old world mazey cobblestone streets and low-built houses are gorgeous to ramble around. While hiking up to the town’s highest point is well worth the effort, to enjoy a full view of the picturesque village, whose close-knit houses were built to create a fort-like effect, protecting the villagers against marauding Mediterranean pirates.
A little history
The history of Alonissos is in fact anything but little but here’s a mini synopsis. Evidence of human activity at Cyclops’ cave on the islet of Gioura and Kokkinokastro stretch back 9,000 years to the Mesolithic and early Neolithic ages. Later Bronze age Minoan settlers lead by the legendary hero Stafylos (the term for Grape and an indication that the island was becoming a major hub for wine making) colonised.
Classical times Alonnissos become Ikos or Ikios
Kokkinokastro continued as a major settlement and another sprouted on the hill top that is now the ‘Old Village’, above port Patitiri. Wine continued to be the main stay of the island – visiting the beach of Tsoukalia you’ll notice that it’s littered with pot sherds from this era. It’s the location the amphorae used to store wine were made (tsoukalia is one of the words used for pot in Greek). Remnants of a temple dedicated to Aesculapius, the god of healing, have been unearthed at Marpounta on the eastern tip of the island.
Hiking across the island you’ll come across ruined watch towers, vestiges of churches and monasteries and the rubbled remains of settlements destroyed by natural disasters and waves of invaders. Kokkinokastro is touted as being the burial place of Peleus, the father of the mighty Achilles.
Where to go swimming
Agios Dimitrios: The most renowned beach on the island, known for its distinctive shape, bright-blue crystal waters, has a long, pebbled coastline. Part of the seafront has beach bars that rent umbrellas and sunbeds, but there’s also plenty of space to lounge on freely.
Leftos Yalos: A small bay surrounded by pine trees that reach the sea, with a pebbled beach. It has beach bars and a very exciting seabed, ideal for snorkelling in its green-blue waters, which is why it attracts many visitors.
Kokkinokastro: An impressive setting with a kaleidoscope of colours: bright blue waters, golden sand, green trees and red rocks. It is only reachable by steps (60 of them) so it’s not ideal for people with mobility issues. It has a beach bar with sunbeds and umbrellas for rent, and warm shallow waters.
Chrissi Milia: Located near Hora and Patitiri, the fine-sand beach has blue-green, shallow waters and trees that encroach right to the sea’s edge. Ideal for families with young children with an organised section with loungers and umbrellas, but as with many beaches on Alonnisos there’s plenty of space away from the beach bar for those seeking a more peaceful plunge.
Milia: As you approach the beach through the woods, you’ll see its bright blue waters and white pebbles. It’s a serviced beach with beach bars renting sunbeds and umbrellas.
Yialia: A tranquil, sandy beach with some fine pebbles, next to Vrisitsa beach. It’s easily accessible via a paved road, but there’s also a dirt-road leading there from Alonia. On a hill above the beach there’s an old, restored windmill.
Megalos Mourtias: A popular beach that’s easily reachable via a paved road from Hora. It’s serviced, with tavernas, bars and beach bars that rent umbrellas and sunbeds.
Valitsa: Valitsa is a small, low-key beach that’s almost secluded and covered in white pebbles. It’s near Megalos Mourtias, which is reachable via a short trail.
What to See & Do
The island is ideal for outdoor, nature-based activities like cycling, kayaking, sailing and hiking. You can rent gear and receive training by highly skilled instructors (Bayond Watersports, tel.: 0030 693 748 8700, https://alonissos-seacolours.gr). In addition, if you’d like to discover the hidden beauties of Alonnisos, you can rent a boat and explore the other nearby Sporades islands or, alternatively, take an organised day cruise (http://www.seaescapes.gr).
Alonnisos Underwater Museum: If you love diving and are skilled enough, you can visit the Alonnisos Underwater Museum. It’s across from Alonnisos, near the island Peristera, at about 30m depth. The Underwater Museum opened in 2020 and is considered the oldest and most important shipwreck open to the public in the world. It’s one of the largest Classical era shipwrecks, 30m long and 10m wide, and is estimated to weigh more than 150 tonnes. It dates back to approximately 425-450 BC and its size suggests it was among the largest merchant ships of its time, which is said to have been carrying around 3,000 wine amphorae from Skopelos. The museum is open to recreational divers, who can explore the site with the guidance of an experienced, certified diver. Be aware that to be able to dive at the museum you need to at least be an Advanced Open Water Diver. (https://museum.alonissos.gov.gr)
Information centre: If you’re not qualified to dive at the shipwreck, you can always visit the Information Centre, which is housed in the old school. Here, visitors can take a rewarding virtual tour of the shipwreck, seeing the flora and fauna around the shipwreck, as well as jars and objects from the shipwreck in 3D, while there are also amphorae replicas on display.
National Marine Park of Alonnisos and Northern Sporades: It’s the largest marine park in Europe, and can be visited by boat. Opened in 2003, it is home to the Mediterranean Monk Seal and many other protected species. More than 80 bird species and 300 fish species, as well as various animals and reptiles, with the Mediterranean monk seal being the most prominent among them, live at the Marine Park. The Mediterranean monk seals live in sea caves along the rocky coast, but it’s not certain you’ll see one. It’s more probable that you’ll see dolphins playing in the sea. A tour of the park usually includes visits to secluded beaches that are not accessible by land. During your tour, you’ll also visit the small neighbouring islands, each one a unique experience:
Kira-Panagia: Kira-Panagia, also known as Pelagonisi, is the largest uninhabited island of the National Marine Park of Alonnisos and Northern Sporades. It’s named after the monastery of Geniseos tis Theotokou that is located at its top.
Peristera: This is the second largest island in the park, with two natural harbours, Peristeri and Vasiliko, and it also is home to many lovely beaches.
Skantzoura: It’s located between Alonnisos and Skyros and is home to seagulls and Eleonora’s falcons. There was a fortress on the island in the Hellenistic times, and there are ruins of farm houses. At the island’s tallest spot, there’s an abandoned monastery with an amazing view.
Psathoura: A volcanic island with low vegetation. You can swim at the island and admire the wild beauty of its beach, since the golden sand is scattered with volcanic rocks. In addition, there’s an impressive 29m tall 19th century lighthouse on the island.
Hiking: There’s a widespread trail network on the island, covering almost the entirety of the island, except the very rough, inaccessible northern part. The routes through thick vegetation, scattered with chapels, and with amazing sea views, make the hikes a one-of-a-kind experience. One stunning route we recommend is the Kastanorema Gorge, at the northeast part of Alonnisos. For more information visit the island’s website: https://alonissos.gr
Historical and Folklore Museum: It’s housed in an impressive stone building in Patitiri. On the first floor, ancient Greek heirlooms, guns, and objects found in warships and pirate ships are on display. You can also see traditional everyday objects and various tools, like a barber’s razor and an olive press, as well as traditional costumes. (Patitiri, tel.: 0030 2424 065390).
Underwater weddings
If you’re looking for a truly exceptional destination where you can signal eternal love to your better half, then Alonnisos may just be the place for you. The island has now made it possible for couples to get married at eight metres depth, standing on the sea bed and mouthing “I Love You Deeply” – the slogan of the campaign promoting this kind of bubbly wedding — to the love of your life. As an international diving destination, the island has all the necessary the facilities for underwater ceremonies, which are conducted by the mayor and permit only a limited number of guests. Note that the ceremony is free, however, if you don’t have diving experience, you’ll need to take some lessons in advance (https://alonissos.gov.gr).
The heart of Homeopathy
Alonissos is home to the International Academy of Classical Homeopathy, where medicine students and other health professionals travel from across the globe to receive training from the godfather of homeopathy, Professor George Vithoulkas and work towards acquiring a Classical Homeopathy Diploma (https://www.vithoulkas.com).
Culinary identity
Alonissos is a foodie’s paradise. The flavours you’ll find here are unpretentious and authentic, with freshly sourced local and seasonal ingredients offered up in various flavoursome dishes. The famous white Alalunga Alonnisos tuna, prepared at almost every tavern on the island, the fresh fish, lobsters, langoustines and shrimp straight from the fishing boats are some of the island’s characteristic delicacies, while fish soup and lobster pasta is available almost everywhere. Alonissos’ local pies (pittes) are very popular, mostly prepared in a pan (octopus pie, cheese pie, twisted spinach pie). The “hamalia” a wedding dessert, is an almond cookie wrapped in filo and sprinkled with sugar, with lemon or bitter orange flavour, spiced with cinnamon, clove and nutmeg. Other traditional desserts include fouskakia (fried dough balls) and soultana (a type of custard pie). Alonissos’ winemaking culture may have died down, but its modern winemakers continue to produce small quantities of wine for private consumption from the Roditis, Vradiano, Limnio, Mavrokountoura (Mandilaria) and Moschato grape varieties.
Where to eat
Tassia’s Cooking: On the small port of Steni Vala, here you’ll find fresh fish from the owner’s caique and vegetables plucked straight from their garden. Well-made traditional dishes, many including fish (scorpionfish with lemon juice, lobster pasta, grilled mackerel), fried stuffed courgette blossoms, penne with Alonnisos tuna and Alonnisos cheese pie with homemade filo dough are some of the must-try specialties. (Steni Vala, tel.: 0030 2424 065545)
Akrogiali: A taverna that hangs over the water, with a mesmerising sea view, this scenic place serves a wonderful array of mainly fish and seafood dishes including one starring the local tuna, served plain or with tomato. The tuna pasta, the garfish with garlic sauce, and the crispy fried fish are all delicious, as are the char-grilled beef patties. The menu also includes a wide selection of meze dishes that pair beautifully with tsipouro. (Patitiri, tel.: 0030 24240 65236)
O Ditis ke I Kalimnia: A cute tavern at the edge of the bay with a cool balcony with a sea view. Tasty dishes like dolmadakia (stuffed vine leaves) with minced meat and egg-and-lemon sauce, scorpionfish with lemon sauce and dusky grouper with lemon sauce, goat in tomato sauce, marinated Mediterranean horse mackerel, stuffed calamari and lobster pasta. (Steni Vala, tel.: 0030 24240 65545)
Para Thin Alos: A nostalgic tavern right next to the sea, with seating under the shade of an olive tree. Homemade food (gemista (rice-stuffed tomatoes and peppers), moussaka, imam bayildi) made with succulent, home-grown vegetables, olive oil of their own production, and their own fresh catch of the day. We recommend the octopus stew, the lobster pasta and the pasta with shrimp and langoustine, as well as the goat cooked in a Dutch oven. (Tzortzi Gialos, tel.: 0030 2424 066029)
Eleonas: Within a complex next to the sea that includes a tavern, with a café and a beach bar, in a verdant area within an olive grove, the homonymous tavern mainly serves fresh fish (both grilled and fried) and seafood. The menu also includes Mediterranean dishes (homemade shrimp ravioli, seafood linguine) and modern Greek cuisine (shrimp orzo, risotto with apaki and artichokes). It’s one of the few places where you’ll find some particularly well made dishes representative of the island’s unique culinary tradition, such as octopus pie, wild greens pie, onion pie, twisted spinach and cheese pie, all of them fried, soutzoukakia with local artichokes and Alonnisos tuna pasta. They serve local wine. (Leftos Gialos, tel.: 0030 2424066066, fb https://el-gr.facebook.com/eleonas.alonissos/)
Where to stay
Marpunta Resort Alonnisos: Located in a pine-covered area with a private beach with sunbeds, it has a pool, two restaurants, a mini market, a tennis court and a playground on its premises. It offers rooms and apartments with balconies and sea views, the shared open air pool, or the gardens. They serve breakfast. (Marpounta, tel.: 0030 2421 888024)
Yalis: Has modern rooms and suites. It’s located in the Votsi area, 5km from Hora and 2km from Patitiri, and has a panoramic view of the Aegean sea. (Votsi, tel.: 0030 2424 066186)
Marilena Apartments: Located in Patitiri, 600m from the port. Each room is fully equipped and has a kitchen. It also offers car rentals. (Rousoum Gialos, tel.: 0030 2424 065317)
Camping Rocks: Just 60m away from the sea, and 700m from the port. It has a snack-bar, a café and a grocery store on the grounds. (Patitiri, tel.: 0030 2424 065410)
Read also:
Alonnisos, an island to visit this Fall
A day at the monastery of the Marine Park of Alonissos and Northern Sporades
Alexandros Papadiamantis’ Skiathos -Inside the great writer’s house
