An unadulterated Cycladic setting, captivating, unexploited beaches with magnificent waters, and small farming settlements are the key features behind the most liberating holiday you could wish for.
The barren landscape, beaches and low-key development of Folegandros’ tourism industry offer the island the perfect Cycladic character. No extravagant infrastructure, architecture or attraction-seeking features are to be found here; instead, Folegandros majors on simplicity, respect for tradition and a serene atmosphere, which is all the more remarkable as this island is one of the country’s more popular island destinations offering luxurious accommodation and amenities.
Hora, Folegandros’ main town, with a cobbled square where tavernas and café bars huddle tables, is the island’s focal point. At night, when the rakomelo (raki with honey) begins to flow, crowds mingle in this relaxed, sociable setting. Forget about serviced beaches and beach bars on Folegandros, they are non-existent. This is an island where visitors come for relaxed swimming, crystal-clear waters and an authentic Aegean Sea setting on beaches such as Katergo, with its rugged rock beauty, and Livadi, endowed with golden sand and calm waters. Walk the island’s trails, explore charming small villages with whitewashed houses, gaze out to the Aegean Sea, and let nature work its wonders, removing world-weariness and concern. This is what Folegandros is all about.
How to get there
The island is reached by ferry from Piraeus and Lavrio.
Where to stay
Anemi Hotel: The most luxurious accommodation choice on the island is a complex of 12 traditional-style buildings housing rooms and suites, some of which offer private swimming pools. The interior design uniquely combines traditional elements with modern minimalist design with luxury and comfort always in focus. The hotel also offers many amenities for children, including a children’s swimming pool, playgrounds and cinema. The hotel has a fully equipped gym, a restaurant as well as wellness services such as yoga, while the main swimming pool space is superb and has a lovely view.
Info: Hora – Karavostasis, +30 2286041610
Themonies Luxury Suites: A traditional, stone-built building from the 19th century, these comfortable accommodations have been carefully restored. Four suites and a villa, each differing in décor, have a sophisticated allure.
Info: Hora, +30 2286041517
Αspalathras White Hotel: This Cycladic style unit is built on a slope offering a lovely view of the main town and sea. The rooms are comfortable and feature built-in beds and sofas, with metallic and wooden decorative details. The pool space with a wooden veranda is an ideal spot for relaxation.
Info: Hora, +30 2286041670
Lemon Tree Houses: Five suites carefully designed to generate a light, youthful vibe is ideal for couples and the view from the swimming pool is amazing.
Info: Ano Meria, +30 6938443481
Blue Sand: Located in a lovely spot directly above Agali beach, Blue Sand offers suites and rooms in a bohemian-chic style with a relaxed atmosphere.
Info: Agali, +30 2286041042
Where to eat
I Synantisi (Kyra-Maria): A taverna serving local Folegandros recipes, its dishes are prepared using fresh fish as well as local meat and vegetables. The view from this spot is superb.
Info: Ano Meria, +30 2286041208
Pounta: A simple taverna with a charming outside space, it offers traditional food, including fine assorted meze dishes, salads and grilled meat and fish.
Info: Hora, +30 2286041063
Irini Psaromiligou: A café, grocery store and small taverna combined, it has a limited number of tables and offers a small menu featuring casserole dishes and meze in a charming and relaxed setting.
Info: Ano Meria, +30 2286041436
Psaromiligas: With a superb Agali bay view this exemplary taverna serves fish and seafood, as well as casserole dishes.
Info: Agali, +30 2286041116
Local products: Souroto (soft cheese), capers, abelofasoula (string beans). Traditional products: Matsata (handmade pasta), kalasouna (pie), pasteli (honey and sesame bar), karpouzenia (watermelon flavoured pie).
What to see
Folegandros may be a small island but it does not lack in beauty and history.
Castro: A medieval-era area of the main town that was built to offer the islanders protection from pirate invasions, this district has been consistently inhabited without interruption through the ages. Kastro’s narrow alleys, arches, small arcades, well-preserved houses, and distinctive traditional character all take you back in time. (Hora).
Panagia: Dedicated to The Dormition of the Mother of God, this church is the biggest on the island and dramatically overlooks the Aegean Sea. The church is said to have been built on the ancient remnants of an ancient temple. Its oldest marble inscription is from 1687, while the church acquired its current architecture following a reconstruction in 1821. A considerable uphill walk is needed to reach the church but the view from the top is spectacular. (Hora).
Oikomouseio: An open-air museum, Oikomouseio offers insight into everyday agricultural living in the past; an old farm, locally known as the Thymonia, has a cellar, an oven, and a stone mill used to press olives, all carefully restored to show life in bygone times.
Info: Ano Meria, +30 2286041370
Where to swim
Folegandros’ beaches are varied; they can be small, large, sandy or pebbled, with deep blue or crystal clear waters, but they all have one thing in common – none are serviced. This may seem unimaginable to some, but non-serviced beaches offer a complete sense of freedom, a key to this unconventional island.
Katergo: Possibly the island’s most impressive beach, Katergo offers rugged beauty and a rocky landscape. Katergo may be reached by boat or via a half hour walk on an accessible trail.
Agali: A small yet beautiful beach on the picturesque Vathi gulf, Agali is ideal for families with cafes and restaurants nearby.
Agios Nikolaos: Clear waters, rocks, white sand, tamarisks and a charming little taverna are the setting at Agios Nikolaos beach. It can be reached either by boat or by an easy 20 minute walk from Agali beach.
Karavostasis (aka Hohlidia): This beach, ideal for families, is near the port. A big cluster of tamarisks offers superb shade, while the area offers tavernas and cafés.
Galyfos: Sheltered from northern winds, this strand can be reached by boat or via a track starting from Agali beach.
Livadi: A big beach with golden sand and tamarisks for shade, easily reached.
Livadaki: A gorgeous beach offering extraordinary clear waters, Livadaki is isolated but may be reached by boat.
Agios Georgios: An easily accessed beach in a gorgeous bay, Agios Georgios offers natural shade courtesy of its tamarisk trees.
Pountaki: A tiny beach with exceptional waters, Pountaki is situated close to the main road, but a small, steep trail needs to be crossed.
What to do
Folegandros is ideal for water sports including water skiing, kite surfing, snorkelling and scuba diving. Trekking is an island highlight and an interesting and relatively smooth route runs towards the Aspropounta lighthouse. A short trail from Livadaki beach entails a 15-minute walk to the lighthouse. For a fuller route, take the trail starting at Ano Meria which requires approximately an hour to cover. A number of small and short trails from Agali reach the two beaches of Fira and Galyfos. More advanced trekkers should consider a lovely route that begins from the Taxiarhis church area in Ano Meria, that passes by Livadaki and the Aspropounta lighthouse to end up back at Ano Meria. Many sections of this route are cobbled, while the view along the way is absolutely sensational. Divers should consider Georgitsis cave, which can be reached by private boat.
Must: Swim at Katergo beach, enjoy some rakomelo at the island-favourite Astarti bar on the main square, indulge in matsata (handmade pasta) and souroto cheese during your stay on Folegandros.
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