Lacy bays, as if some playful god embroidered them carefully, turquoise waters, and imposing hills, fishing villages and painted chapels, well-built buildings and fine neoclassical structures comprise the main setting of the gorgeous island of Leros.
And if you add to the above the excellent food and the very polite locals, then you’ve got the perfect recipe for unique holidays, made for people searching for a quiet refuge from the busier islands, in this corner of the Aegean.
This perhaps misunderstood island has not been built to become the centre of tourist attention, but rather to stay away from the spotlight and stand proudly despite its hidden trauma. The island was a place of suffering for two reasons: it was the home of one of the main psychiatric hospitals in the country and also the location of the extensive army barracks during the Italian rule, as Mussolini had made the island Italy’s main base in the country.
The island was almost completely destroyed in the lethal Battle of Leros during the Second World War, something still apparent from the damaged buildings among the prickly pears and the pine trees that cover the island. As a result, the people of Leros have turned inwards and have managed to keep the island’s beauty secret, adding a mysterious note to its appeal. If you happen to chance upon Leros, you won’t trade it with anything, as is clear by the many visitors who keep returning to the island every year.
Leros is full of unexpected treasures, ranging from a rich culinary tradition – that includes fish, seafood and sea urchins, abundant in its waters and rocks, mizithra cheese, amazing honey, almond sweets and gavafes, a fruit that is only found on the island – to great diving and walking excursion opportunities, and from tours of the endless tunnels that cover the island to the Leros War Museum, ideal for history buffs and nature lovers alike. We visited and fell in love with Leros.
Agia Marina: neoclassical buildings and traditional coffee shops
The liveliest part of the island, with the port and its seafront cafés, its gorgeous, colourful, neoclassical buildings and the fish taverns, makes for a postcard worthy setting and is completed by the large mansions with the huge yards, bougainvillea trees and neat gardens, that were built by the Egyptiotes who lived in the area in the 19th century, and most of them are painted in shades of yellow, sand and Tuscany red, as the law requires.
It’s well-worth strolling around its alleys and on the seafront promenade that leads to the small port at the other end of the village, as is visiting the Archaeological Museum where you can learn about the island’s rich history, the island of Artemis that, as Thucydides mentions, many city-states, and especially the Athenians, wanted to take under their control due to its great natural harbour that remains to this day. From Agia Marina you can also board one of the boats that leave from there and go on little cruises of the surrounding islands, like Marathi, Arkii and Lipsi.
If you stay in Agia Marina, Alinta is a lovely beach, favoured by the locals. While near the scenic port, you can go to “Paradosiako”, the best-known patisserie-café on the island (tel.: 0030 224705550) for a very well-made Greek coffee, served with Turkish delight, or a great homemade spinach pie by the water. If you have a sweet tooth, it’s really a paradise for you: dreamy ice cream in a large variety of flavours – ranging from Chios mastic to ricotta, and from Toblerone to cookies etc, traditional pougkia with almond filling, divine tiramisu and airy pavlova.
Platanos and Kastro tis Panagias
Platanos is in essence the capital of Leros that has merged with Agia Marina and truly takes visitors on a trip through time, filled as it is with neoclassical buildings, old windmills, and of course the Byzantine Kastro tis Panagias castle on the top of the Apitiki hill. From there, the view reaches Patmos, Kalymnos and even the coasts of Asia Minor, and the sunset seems right out of a postcard. It’s worth climbing the five hundred steps to the hill from Platanos to see every history variation – alternatively, you can drive directly to the windmills and the small chapel of Profitis Ilias that seems to have been painted there by a master painter. A bit further away, around one of the windmills you’ll find “Harris Bar” with an incredible view, and amazing cocktails, great music and chill vibes. It’s definitely the most impressive, detox place on the island.
Photo: Shutterstock
The fishing villages and Panteli
A series of old fishing boats, fishing nets everywhere, boatmen and shopkeepers, and of course the most incredibly fish taverns comprise this village that time seems to not have touched. Walk on the street at the edge of the port that leads to the bay of Vromolithos with the tamarisk trees and the nice pebbles and discover absolute peace and quiet. Make sure to stop at “Sweet & Salty” for a sweet or savoury snack and epic galaktompoureko (traditional custard pie with syrup). You can also stock up on homemade marmalades. Finally, make sure to try the scented geranium liquor.
Dio Liskaria: the island’s virgin beach
There’s a pirate flag in this beautiful small pebbled beach with the turquoise waters, a sign of the area’s rock ‘n’ roll character. A hangout for young people, but also a place for socialising, Dio Liskaria stands out not just due to the beauty of the landscape but also due to beach bar “Zefiros” (Tel.: 0030 2247025200) that serves anything you’ll ever need: from local brews like Raven to ice creams and amazing burgers. There are also a few cute shops on the beach.
Agia Kioura: the chapel of the exiles
Our favourite spot on Leros, since the descent to this magical, free beach appears similar to what the entrance to heaven might be, hidden behind the mountain, an oasis that brings to mind the film “The Blue Lagoon”. Covered in tamarisk trees and wild vegetation, with the air scented with thyme and oregano, it’s the ideal place for anyone seeking privacy and tranquillity. At the top of the hill, you’ll see Agia Matrona-Kioura, the chapel that the Junta exiles painted. In fact, the painters Antonis Karagiannis, Kiriakos Tsakiris and Takis Tzaneteas used fellow inmates as their models, and so, if you look at the church’s paintings carefully, you’ll see they are different from the typical Byzantine church paintings, and that on their faces you can detect the pain of human suffering.
The impressive complex that used to house Leros psychiatric hospital. / Photo: Shutterstock
The old Leros Psychiatric Hospital
A vast, Italian architecture, building complex that could be the set of a film has been abandoned for years, instead of being listed and protected as the piece of history it is. Old barracks of the Italian Air Base on the island, this complex was then turned into a psychiatric colony where the mentally ill patients of other facilities in Greece that had been abandoned by their families for more than a year were transferred (there’s a very interesting book on the subject by academic Neni Panourgia, Leros – I grammatiki tou egklismou, Nefeli publications). The majority of the staff were locals since for many years there was no scientific professional support, and it wasn’t until the 80s when a more structured treatment arrived. In fact, some of the leading representatives of anti-psychiatry, like Guattari, who supported the release of the inmates had arrived here. In 2015, it was turned into a refugee hotspot and it’s truly sad thinking that the complex remains a place for wounded people and souls. It is however impressive in terms of architecture, like most buildings in Leros built by the Italians, following more modern architectural trends.
Lakki, in essence, is part of the Italian “heritage”. / Photo: Tina Mandilara
Photo: Tina Mandilara
Lakki: Leros’ architectural miracle
The apocalyptic, almost out of a science fiction book, image that photos of Leros from above show are, to a certain degree, due to Lakki, this architectural miracle that stands behind an impressive seafront avenue where Mussolini dreamed of having marches celebrating his victories. The BBC, describing Lakki, spoke of “the strange beauty of Greece’s weirdest town”. The Italians wanted to build here the most impressive modernist building, examples of Italian realism. After all, it said that Lakki has the largest number of art deco buildings after Miami: the cinema, built for the entertainment of the Italian soldiers, still in operation, is very impressive, as is the school, the theatre with the impressive red velvet chairs, the hospital and the “palazzinos”, that is the Italian officers’ residences. Another very striking example of modernist architecture is the clock tower in the heart of town.
Mussolini wanted to make his base here, the so-called “Flagship of Rome”, to handle his operations in the Mediterranean and Africa, since Lakki is one of the best natural harbours in the Aegean. His plans weren’t successful since the Germans took over of the base, after the destructive “Battle of Leros”, one of the most famous battles of the Second World War in the Mediterranean. You can learn more about it at Leros War Museum, while all over the island you will come across tunnels built by the Italian forces. And if you need a break after visiting all these impressive buildings, you can make a stop at “Bakaliko me Tsipouro” (tel.: 0030 2247022949) for a filling sandwich, as well as for breakfast – especially early in the morning, when there aren’t many people – with free range eggs.
The Lime Beach bar / Photo: Tina Mandilara
Photo: Tina Mandilara
Merikia with the floating platform and nice beach bar
Near the abandoned Italian buildings, just outside Lakki, in an isolated place, surrounded by pine trees, you’ll find Merikia with its beautiful sea and its even more special bay. It has no beach, but a platform that takes you back to old times and the beach bar “Lime” that brings Italian moments of prosperity to mind. We sat on the first platform, rather than on the sun beds offered free to guests, and when we saw the sea start to turn golden, we ordered the best Bloody Mary we’ve ever tasted. Magic. You’ll want to stay forever.
Panagia Kavouradaina/ Photo: Shutterstock
Panagia Kavouradaina
Even if you are not religious, even if you haven’t been in a church ever, you can light a candle here. It’s only natural when you visit this chapel perched on the edge of a cliff, like a fairy tale, with the image of the Virgin Mary emerging from inside a huge crab as the patron saint of fishermen and the saltwater of the Aegean. In Leros, everything is possible, even Panagia Kavouradaina, considered miraculous. It is worth a visit, as is the tavern “Trehantiri” (tel.: 0030 2247-023408) for fresh fish. It is the well-kept secret of the locals.
The most famous restaurants
Tis Kakomoiras, Vromolithos, tel.: 0030 6945-453808
Very polite staff, as everywhere else in Leros, with good prices and excellent views. You can ask Mr Christos to advise you on the menu according to your preferences. We recommend pancakes in the morning –they are amazing– and in the evening, you must try, the prawns kadaifi.
Sotos, Drimonas, tel.: 0030 2247024546
The first place you think of for seafood in Leros is “Sotos”: fresh shell food, sea urchins that just a bit ago were hidden on a rock in the sea, crabs just off the beach, and fish that Sotos himself caught on his fishing boat and is now scaling in front of you. If you happen to visit on a good day with a nice catch, you feel that you are communicating with all the gods of the Dodecanese. If not, try to come back again because spontaneity characterizes this beautiful place. Don’t forget to try the delicious dusky grouper souvlaki.
Mylos Restaurant/ Photo: Tina Mandilara
Mylos Restaurant/ Photo: Tina Mandilara
Milos, Agia Marina, tel: 0030 22470/24894
If you don’t eat at Mylos, you haven’t been to Leros: the most beautiful terrace on the island is a platform literally in the sea overlooking one of the imposing windmills that dominate the edge of the harbour in Agia Marina. Everything here contributes to remembering the island forever: from the exquisitely delicious dishes based on the careful processing of the raw material and with cuts that even the Japanese would envy, to the two brothers, Marios in the kitchen and Giorgos at the service, who, with their rare culture, can explain to you the whole philosophy behind the flavours and can advise you on the ideal wine from the huge list that can accompany them and the (very) nice music that shows great taste. We had amazing asparagus with eel, tremendous seafood charcuterie, delicious sea urchin salad and local oysters, while no one should miss the ginger amberjack and tuna belly with mango tartare. The gastronomy here is celebrated and gives the island a rare seal.
Pyrofani, Panteli, tel.: 0030 6936748122
One of the most picturesque and nice tavernas in Panteli with the most delicious dishes such as orzo pasta, ceviche, chickpea soup, sea bass fillet and very nice shrimp pies. And all these at perfectly reasonable prices.
Photo: Facebook (Apostolis’ Psaropoula)
Photo: Facebook (Apostolis’ Psaropoula)
Psaropoula, Panteli, tel.: 0030 2247-025200
Another nice fish tavern in Panteli, with fine vegan dishes and seafood. Mr Apostolis can advise you on this. Probably the nicest place for lobster pasta.
I Thea Artemis, Blefoutis, tel.: 0030 2247-024253
The tavern where you will go hungry after a swim in the beautiful sea in the front, or on the Kioura beach, which is a five-minute drive away. The combination of quality and quantity is ideal since what we ate was exquisite and in hearty portions: grilled vegetables, crab salad, fresh fish and seafood, lobster salad. And we were so selfish that we didn’t even give it to the cats who are frequent patrons of the shop. Terribly polite staff and it’s no wonder the goddess Artemis protects this place.
Nice, special lodgings:
The beautiful hotel-house Villa Clara/ Photo: Facebook (Villa Clara)
Villa Clara, http://www.villaclara.fr/
One reason why Leros can seem magical in the eyes of visitor is “Villa Clara” and this couple who took this neoclassical house and turned it into a place of relaxation, high service, and delight: the wonderful Olivier and the lovely Marie-Hélène made sure to give us the right advice and make our days –and especially our nights– in Leros a point of reference. “Villa Clara”, that is, the hotel-house they call ‘Maison Particulière’, became our refuge, enriched by the stories they told us in the evenings in the beautiful courtyard. Since the similar house in Beirut was destroyed by the explosion, they did not give up and moved their property and their dreams here in Agia Marina and in this beautiful neoclassical house, and with their supervision they turned it into a den for visitors. I have no words to describe the dishes that chef Olivier made for us, the love and care of Marie-Hélène that made our days in Leros more beautiful.
Il canto delle Cicale, Alinta
One kilometre outside Alinta, in Agia Marina, in a magical location with a beautiful terrace and well-kept grounds, there is this accommodation that travellers prefer as the best combination of location and price. The colourful spaces lift the mood while the amazing hosts, as everyone says about Abra and David, turn the stay into a promise of joy. Those who have stayed convey the best.
Hotel Elena, Alinda, Agia Marina, tel.: 0030 2461-026056
This hotel is found on the island’s most central beach, with sea and garden views and, judging by reviews and reputation, is considered the ideal combination of quality and value for money. Cheap, nice, convenient, beautiful and with a lovely terrace where one can gaze at endless sunsets. Books are also offered on the premises for reading, which we appreciated very much.
Stella Marina, Panteli, tel.: 0030 6976139959
The wonderfully modern aesthetics, the great location, the cleanliness and the affordable prices have given Stella Marina the stars it deserves so that it can be the accommodation option at the top of tripadvisor’s reviews list. Everyone is thrilled with their stay.
Bianco Hotel. Lakki, tel.: 0030 2247022460
A lovely boutique hotel with character in one of the most interesting locations in Leros that really makes a difference. Lovely spaces with great décor and great service.
