Our journey took a leisurely pace, with the car windows fully open to invite in the cooling northern ‘Meltemi’ winds of Tinos. We aimed to reach Ysternia in time for sunset, an event that locals insist is not to be missed. The village of Ysternia provides a perfect spot to watch the sun’s late summer descent, its radiant orb sinking like a ripe, violet-tinted peach into the azure depths of the Aegean sea.
Twenty kilometres north of Tinos Town, we arrived at Ysternia, an amphitheatrically built village on the slopes of the Meroviglia hill. Leaving our car in the open space, we took a deep breath, the scent of thistle and thyme filling our lungs, and plunged into the narrow, marble-clad lanes of this strikingly white village. Once one of the island’s most bustling and wealthy villages, Ysternia reached its peak in the 18th and 19th centuries, largely due to the ample marble quarries in the area. In 1834, the census recorded over a thousand residents, but today the population barely reaches 150.
Inside the Village
A village with a history rooted in seafaring and artistry, Ysternia is the birthplace of notable Tinos sculptors like the Malakates brothers and George Vitalis. Ysternia has kept the outstanding creations of skilled local marble sculptors from eras past, with the entire village serving as a testament to the high standards of artistic marble craftsmanship.
The village’s Cycladic two-storey mansions all feature intricately carved marble lintels, and many also showcase marble window frames. Delicate arches cast cooling shadows over the lime-washed narrow lanes, steep downhill streets seem to lead directly into the sea, and charming courtyards replete with vibrant bougainvillaea and robust geraniums command unparalleled views over Syros and beyond. On a clear day, other Cycladic islands to the west are visible on the horizon.
Ysternia’s life force is felt most vividly along its main village road. It was once the hub of a number of businesses, including eight grocery stores, a saddle maker, tobacconist, lantern-maker, cobbler, and several traditional cafes. Some of these establishments remain today, lending the village a nostalgic aura. Along this same road, you’ll encounter the marble-sculpted Church of Agia Paraskevi, the sacred temples of Agia Anna and Agia Triada, the central marble square of Glyni, and the Museum of Ysternian Artists, each worthy of a pause in your exploration. Moreover, the Ysternia windmills, now protected monuments situated on the western edge of the village, deserve a visit. This complex, a genuine display of folk art, was constructed in the 19th century and significantly contributed to the local economy and sustenance.
The village’s unique name has sparked debates. Some argue that the correct spelling should be “Isternia”, deriving from the Latin word “cisterna”, given to the village due to its numerous cisterns in the past. Others contend that “Ysternia” is more appropriate, reflecting the village’s status as the last stop on the wagon road. While the former was more widely used in the past, since 1996, the latter has officially prevailed.
Ormous Ysternion
A well-preserved marble path links Ysternia to its coastal sibling, Ormous Ysternion. Known as the “Marble Path”, it facilitated goods movement in the past, with Ormous Ysternion serving as a port and a transit hub for trading Tinian marble. Alternatively, you can take the tarmac road down.
Now, Ormous Ysternion is a seaside favourite for many, including locals and visitors. Its summers offer leisurely swims, protected from the intense northern winds. To the left of the bay, the small sandy beach of Schoinaki provides a haven when you yearn for some quiet time, where you can savour the sun and the sea without feeling like nature is settling a score. A few tamarisk trees and the rocks to the left of the beach offer ample shade for relaxation, with the mesmerising blue expanse of the sea stretching out before you. The beach of Schoinaki also makes an ideal spot for families.
Accommodation
In recent years, a trend has emerged among visitors to Tinos to favour the island’s villages for their stays. With a multitude of charming villages to choose from, it’s hardly surprising. Among these, Ysternia now offers some of the finest accommodation in Tinos. One such place is Under the Sun Cycladic Village, where you’ll find an outstanding Cycladic aesthetic, a sense of privacy, a hint of luxury, and panoramic views of the Aegean Sea. With a deep respect for the island’s natural beauty, Under the Sun Cycladic Village is built with Tinian stone, dug into the slopes of Exo Meria, just before Ysternia (www.underthesuntinos.com).
Another top choice is Ydrousa, located within the village itself. The residences, accommodating up to four people, are beautifully decorated in line with the Cycladic aesthetic and fully equipped. The major draw of this place is the spectacular view it offers (www.ydrousaview.com). Aelia Mare Apartments offers five brand-new apartments with a blend of traditional and contemporary architecture, unlimited sea views, and luxurious accommodation (Tel: +30 22830 31839).
Dining
Thalassaki, a restaurant practically touching the water’s edge, is the island’s most frequented eatery. Here, beautifully presented dishes give your palate a tour of the island’s authentic flavours, all prepared from fresh local produce straight from the garden. It’s no wonder that many boats intentionally anchor in the Bay just to savour the fresh fish and seafood (+30 22830 31366). At Ta Ysternia, a traditional family-run tavern, you’ll indulge in homemade cuisine made with local ingredients, overlooking Syros. The stewed dishes are worth a try, along with traditional Tinian appetisers such as marathokeftedes (fennel fritters), caparokeftedes (caper fritters), and froutalia (local omelette) (+30 22830 31005).
For an outstanding breakfast or brunch, or just a flawless coffee, head over to Mayou, an all-day bar in Ysternia village that offers not only breathtaking views but also the comforting shade of plane trees (+30 22830 31882). Exomeria, a beautifully located all-day bar-restaurant, offers unbeatable views. It’s worth visiting to enjoy the captivating sunset on its tastefully designed balcony, accompanied by your last coffee of the day, and perhaps one of the light desserts from the menu (+30 6947 940067).
Read also:
Celebrated Across the Island: Top Tinos Dessert Spots
Tinos Island’s Striking Natural Landmarks and Villages
