I live halfway up Lycabettus hill, so close to the church of St George that crowns it and can be seen from around the city, that I can hear the Greek flag flapping in the wind. When I consider just how high up in the city I go daily (almost to its top, give or take an extra 15-minute hike upwards) to get home, I’m somewhat amazed.

21

Equally amazed by their resilience are the many sweaty, out-of-breath tourists who walk up the stairs of Loukianou street in desperate search of the cable car or path to take them to the very top (woefully, the distinct lack of signage creates an alarming variety of relationship and family dramas).

Visitors from near and far often remark (and I can hear this from my balcony, in a multitude of languages, numerous times per day) “I can’t believe how high we’ve come!”  – and – “Ugh! There is still so much more to go till we get to the top!” 

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Lycabettus path/Photo: Alexia Amvrazi
Nature flourishes on the hill/Photo: Alexia Amvrazi

My son often grumbles as we hike up with shopping or his school bag, “Why couldn’t we live somewhere flat, or without stairs?” And on a tired day, when I feel I might pass out from all the steep stairs home, I agree with him. But essentially, I know living on Lycabettus hill has its magical gifts. Every day we are imbued with lush greenery and the birds, cats, tortoises and other creatures, and their sounds, that live within it. We walk to school through a forest from which we stop to gawp at a gorgeous view of the Acropolis and the sea of Piraeus behind it, every day with different colours and moods. Sometimes we stop to pick mustard flowers, wild asparagus, nettles, flowers and rosemary. The hill is our front garden, and what a great place to be for jogging, leisurely strolls, walking the dog, yoga, picnics, romantic panoramic views, concerts, dinners and drinks.

The whitewashed 18th century church of St George at the peak of Lycabettus is certainly its top cultural highlight, with the Sky Bar next to it where you can stop for a drink or bite, but it’s not the only one. Actually, most visitors today flock to the hill to sit at Prasini Tenda, a café-restaurant that reopened only a few years ago and has a two-level terrace looking out to mesmerising city views, which is open from morning to night.

St George can be reached by foot or via the funicular (called ‘Teleferik’ in Greek, from the French word), the station of which is on Aristippou 1, across Veranda café. Being at the top of the hill it affords the best panoramic views, and there are several telescopes (they require a coin to work) around the church, where services are still held daily. Prasini Tenda is just a little over halfway up the hill, so visitors often combine their visit to both. 

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The interior of St Isidore/Photo: Alexia Amvrazi
St Isidore exterior/Photo: Alexia Amvrazi

The Greek Orthodox faithful also have an affinity for the mid-19th century Church of St. Isidore, which was the heart of a controversy last year, as people had for years been flocking to the church to see Father Dimitris Loupasakis, now removed from his position after being denounced for corruption, who said he could heal people with the help of a miraculous icon. Built within a large cave, the church has several levels and a special ambience, as well as wonderful views of the city. Inside the church are some magnificent frescoes.

The City of Athens Lycabettus Theatre, originally opened in 1965, closed for renovation in 2008 and finally reopened in the summer of 2023, is another great attraction on the hill. Designed by renowned architect Takis Zenetos, the theatre graces Lycabettus Hill, standing where a quarry once existed. Its innovative steel design seamlessly complements Athens’ iconic landscape. The open-air venue hosts music concerts and other events between May and October, and now has great parking, seating and an onsite café-bar. The large parking lot at the back of the has always remained open and is a standard spot for a romantic rendezvous with a view to be enjoyed in-car or on foot.

The hill is well worth wandering around even aimlessly, just to connect with nature, escape the ceaseless daytime hum of the city, and enjoy open skylines. Above all, it offers a sense of connectivity from afar with the capital and its people and nature, and a higher perspective all at once. Take a picnic or a bottle of wine and find a perfect spot to relax with friends.

Best Spots Near Lycabettus

Now that you’ve expended plenty of energy going up Lycabettus and enjoying the fabulous vistas of the city, it’s time to walk downhill and visit some of the closest locales.

If you’d like to refuel with a sandwich, some focaccia or one of the city’s best pain au chocolat walk down to Anagnostopoulou St and visit Kora bakery, also known and loved for its excellent sourdough bread.

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Dinner at the St George Lycabettus Hotel/Facebook
Cine Dexameni, at the base of Lycabettus Hill/Photo: Facebook

Or head towards the St George Lycabettus hotel, which has a rooftop pool open to paying non-guests and the incredibly scenic La Suite Lounge Restaurant. Just below the hotel you’ll see another steep road leading down to Dexameni Square. Here, you can sip your coffee or have a meze with a frosted beer at Café Dexameni, and during summer you can also enjoy a movie at the open-air Cine Dexameni theatre, or watch your kids play football or climb the monkey bars in the playground.  

Venturing into Kolonaki

For day-trippers, Kolonaki is the place to go after or before a visit to Lycabettus, for food, drinks, shopping and culture. One of the capital’s ritziest neighbourhoods with many beautiful 19th century buildings and an endless array of expensive boutiques.

If you’re heading down after sunset and are thirsty, on Deinokratous St, just above Dexameni, is the Jazz n Jazz bar, where you can get into sophisticated jazz vibes year-round over a quality whisky or a well-mixed cocktail. Coming down onto Aristippou street and then walking down one flight of the Ploutarchou St stairs you’ll reach Bar 56, a uniquely atmospheric haunt for serious rum and whisky lovers. 

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Classic Greek cuisine at Filipou/Photo: Facebook
Farm-to-table dining at Nice N Easy/Photo: Facebook

Also enjoy a drink near Lycabettus hill in popular buzzy hangouts such as Kolonaki square, Tsakalof St, pedestrian Charitos St or on Milioni St, as you watch the world go by. Or sip your coffee at local cafe The Daily, trendy Chez Michel, politician-hub Vivliothiki, intellectual Filion or stylish Mayor, which are the creme de la creme cafes among a plethora of choices in Kolonaki. For a bite to eat, visit top quality restaurants like Papadakis, Filippou, Capanna, Zubardan, Ratka, Nice N Easy, Malconi’s, Oikio and many, many more choices.

If you’re in the mood for shopping, you’ll find designer clothes, upscale preloved clothing, accessories and home décor items all around the neighbourhood, but head down Voukourestiou Street if you’re looking to splurge on the world’s top designer fashion and jewellery brands, from Prada and Chanel to Lalaounis and Zolotas.

Also in Kolonaki, is an excellent range of museums and cultural spaces that offer an enlightening exploration into varied aspects of Greek history, art, science and tradition. Notably hosting the Benaki Museum, the Museum of Cycladic Art, the Byzantine and Christian Museum, the Petraki Monastery, the Kotsanas Museum of Ancient Greek Technology, the Gennadius Library, the Museum of the History of the Greek Costume of the Lyceum Club of Greek Women, the National Gallery and the War Museum, the area is not only a hub of rich exhibits but also a showcase of notable architectural design within which they are housed.

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Flower pizzeria and cafe/Photo: Facebook
Kyrios bar on Mavili Square/Photo: Facebook

From Lycabettus too, you can choose to head further towards an exit onto Daskalogianni and Koniari streets (there are stairs descending from Lycabettus right at this point), from where you can walk down to the Ambelokipi metro station and Alexandras Avenue. Otherwise, head from there to Mavili Square, where there is a handful of cafes, bars, ice cream shops and a grocery store. Mavili, with its large fountain, is busy from morning to night, but especially popular during the late hours when its many bars such as Kyrios, Briki, Flower and the Mavili Beach Hotel are. At night, you will probably see a queue for ‘Kantina’, which has been there for several decades, selling large hotdogs on fluffy bread with a variety of gratifyingly indulgent fillings and toppings on offer.

Lycabettus Fun Facts

Mythological Landing

Lycabettus Hill, according to Greek mythology, owes its formation to a fateful mistake by the goddess Athena, the guardian deity of the city. While hauling a rock from Pallini with the purpose of fortifying the Parthenon, an unfortunate message was conveyed to her by a crow. In the ensuing disturbance, she dropped the rock, inadvertently creating the hill we now know as Lycabettus, and folklore suggests that crows were thereafter transformed to a black hue.

Don’t Quarry

Following the Greek War of Independence and before Athens was crowned the capital, Lycabettus, barren and devoid of arboreal cover, became a pivotal site for quarrying, particularly in the area now known as Kolonaki. The marble extracted from its depths found a new life, shaping the elegant neoclassical buildings in its proximity and throughout Kolonaki.

The Cable Car Story

The ‘Teleferik’ cable car, from the very start of its operation, garnered immense popularity with both locals and tourists. The idea of devising a mechanical transport method to ascend the hill has been entertained for numerous years, specifically since 1925. Nevertheless, the cable car’s actual construction was not realised until 1965, an entire four decades later. The journey of the cable car commences at the juncture of Ploutarchou and Aristippou streets in the Kolonaki district, spanning a route that is 210 metres long and ascends a 28 degree slope.