The first taste of winter is upon us in the heart of autumn. Escapes this season are short, close, and without excessive expenditure, yearning for a bit more sea yet eagerly anticipating alpine landscapes and the first fires of the season. Their luxury lies in beautiful landscapes, rich food, and that unparalleled feeling of melancholy that replenishes our creative batteries.
Skala Oropou, 1 hour from Athens
It doesn’t get closer than this. The place is historical and worth a visit for its archaeological interest, but not only. Be sure to see the Amphiareion in a small valley southwest of Skala Oropou. The Mavrodilesi was the largest in ancient Greece and dedicated to the Chthonic god and hero of Argos, Amphiaraus, constituting the national sanctuary of Oropos. On the western side of the archaeological site are the famous baths of the sanctuary, very well-known and esteemed in antiquity.
In Skala Oropou, there is also a small wetland, and a small lagoon – an ideal spot for bird watching. You can see mallards, cranes, and flamingos before the big winter chills drive them to migrate to their warm homelands. Did you know about the Technology Museum PHAETHON? Lovers of old cars and clocks will have a fantastic time perusing the exhibits. The museum also includes exhibits on telecommunications, electronics, physics, defence systems, torpedoes, and more. Moreover, a leisurely stroll around the harbour of Skala, only to be interrupted by a coffee or meal, is a must.
At Batis, fresh seafood draws in the locals and has become a popular destination for day trips to Oropos. Accommodation is reasonably priced, with double rooms available for no more than 60 euros per night, perhaps even less. Now that the holidaymakers have departed, the retro charm of Skala, reminiscent of the nostalgic 60s and 70s, shines through, free from the summer chaos. The sea in autumn is invaluable, and Oropos is a solution worth considering if you hadn’t already.
Tolo, 2 hours from Athens
Tolo is the quintessential fishing village in Argolida, near Nafplio. It’s the perfect destination for extending the summer holidays or commencing winter getaways. First mentioned by Homer and later placed on the map of glamorous domestic destinations in the 80s (with discos, fine dining, and proximity to Epidaurus), Tolo continues to captivate travelers who return time and again, drawn by the warm hospitality of its residents and its tranquil beauty. Greek art shops, boutique finds, and gastronomic restaurants raise the bar, giving you ample reason to return.
At Maria’s Restaurant on Bouboulina Street, you’ll clink glasses to the first red wine of the season, perhaps struggling to choose from the comprehensive wine list. A stroll to the nearby ancient Asine (approximately 2 km) will reveal stunning artifacts from the Middle Helladic, Mycenaean, Hellenistic, and Roman periods. From the cultural centre of the area, you’ll enjoy magical views. If you’re up for more, walk (or drive) through the famous orange groves of Argolida from Tolo to Nafplio, about 8 km. For the explorers among you, the picturesque Vivari is nearby, and the archaeological site of Mycenae is just a half-hour drive north of Tolo. It’s the perfect autumn getaway: based in Tolo, you can see and do so much on a budget.
Agoriani, 2+ hours from Athens
Agoriani is a beautiful village cloaked in fir trees, near Mount Parnassus. It lacks the hustle and bustle of Arachova, with the added bonus of being more wallet friendly. If you have a fondness for hiking, the tranquility of nature, and delicious food, this is your spot. The waterfall in the village square adds to the relaxing ambiance, soothing the eyes. Embark on an adventure through the fir forest, with a child-friendly hike starting from Agoriani and leading to the chapel of the Holy Trinity. Here, you’ll find wooden tables perfect for a picnic, should you bring your own provisions.
But simply staying in the village itself is a delight. The unmistakable scent of burning wood from the chimneys fills the air as the first chill of winter sets in, whetting the appetite for local delights at the quaint taverns or a hot chocolate at a café with your book and Instagram at the ready. For food, the Mavrodimos guesthouse prepares nettle croquettes and wild boar stew among other seasonal treats. At Stamatis’ tavern, don’t miss out on the excellent hortopita (wild greens pie) and the famous cheese pie that has all the kids licking their fingers.
Pefki, 3 hours from Athens
Known as the jewel of Northern Evia, Pefki is reminiscent of the Sporades islands with its lush flora and pervasive scent of pine. The historic naval battle between the Persians and the Greeks took place off the cape of Artemision, where Pefki is located, in 480 BC. Though a bustling tourist resort in the summer, the beautiful, large beach offering views of one of the most enchanting sunsets you’ll ever see is worth a visit for two or three days in the autumn as well. You’ll find ample accommodation and dining options along the pedestrian walkway just above the beach, all at budget-friendly prices.
This coastal promenade is perfect for endless strolls, enjoyed by both young and old. At its end, a little further on, you’ll find the best tavern in the area, the welcoming Kapeleio tis Menias, and if you’re lucky, you might catch live music from exceptional local and other virtuosos.
For a final taste of summer, albeit with a light jacket and steaming coffee in hand, you can visit Skiathos within about half an hour from Pefki or, even better, visit the neighbouring villages of Northern Euboea: Gouves, with the tower house (now a museum) where poet Georgios Drosinis spent his childhood and youth, or Kamatriades for horse riding and coffee with panoramic views of the Euboean Gulf.
Also, the somewhat more distant Aidipsos for nightlife and, why not, a rejuvenating bath. If the idea of a short walk in a real, Greek village with few residents and beautiful houses appeals to you, 15 minutes on foot from Pefki is Asminio (Potoki), with its small mole from the edge of which you’ll see the horizon touching the sea. Look for the souvlaki of the legendary Zahos in the small square of this village and thank us later.
