One of the city’s most sui generis neighbourhoods, Petralona continues to draw devotees from across Athens, and its permanent residents have few reasons to venture far from it. By preserving its deep-rooted connections to the past, Petralona remains urban, vibrant, with an old-fashioned residential vibe and unapologetically bohemian.
Here we present four establishments that offer even more incentive for you to (re)acquaint yourself with the neighbourhood and, undoubtedly, to (re)kindle your affection for it. Some are relatively new, while others have stood the test of time. Across all their menus and tables, a love for the good life shines brightly, rooted in simplicity and communal spirit.
Line
European elegance and an edgy artistic spirit meet at Line, one of the pioneering venues of the new era, dedicated to quality and the origins of raw materials. Line champions sustainability and has, for quite some time, been an all-day destination with millennial vibes and a laid-back atmosphere, featuring a zero-waste ethos and modern, minimalist architecture. What can you find here? Fresh, artisanal bread, Greek cheeses, fruit wines, and nomadic beers. The recipe for its success was penned by its creators: Vasilis Kyritsis and Nikos Bakoulis from The Clumsies, along with Dimitris Dafopoulos, the co-founder of Three Cents beverages. The space that now houses Line was once the old Zouboulakis Gallery, making it a proposal for those who embrace the philosophy of ‘living well’ and choose to extend it to their nights out for entertainment.
Address: Agathodaemonos 37 and Orestou 1, Kato Petralona
Taverna Oikonomou
Can something old, classic, and time-tested still be considered cool? Well, when it comes to one of Athens’ most hospitable, historic, and top quality tavernas—about to celebrate a century at the same location in 2030—the answer is a resounding yes. Kostas Diamantis took over this taverna 22 years ago, and remarkably, almost nothing has changed, neither in the ambiance nor in the food, save for a few modest additions to the menu. Back then, devoted patrons like artists Alekos Fasianos and Nikos Panagiotopoulos had asked him to honour its past. Today’s passionate clientele, regulars, and friends expect the same from Philip Tsagkridis, the new proprietor of “Oikonomou”—news that food enthusiasts got wind of early in October.
The floors have been polished, a window that remained shut for years has opened, and the bathroom has been redone in Greek marble. In addition to the fine house wine, there are now options from Greek wine labels. This new era pays homage to the past while seamlessly blending with it. The Greek comfort food that warms both stomach and heart will continue to be served in Petralona for many more years to come.
Address: 41 Troon & Kydanidon, Ano Petralona
Sempreviva
Once you visit, you’re likely to keep returning, leaving with a hint of nostalgia. Hailing from Thessaloniki, the proprietors have brought the warmth of Northern Greek cuisine to Athens, specifically to Petralona. Here, a fairy-tale, cosy atmosphere beckons us to invite our nearest and dearest for a toast of tsipouro against the backdrop of 93 liqueurs, lovingly crafted by Mrs Katerina from barberry and chili, from tsoureki to mushrooms, and many more. The dishes, served at this establishment for the past year, undergo continuous creative renewal while staying rooted in tradition. Home-made pies, succulent meatballs or burgers, and hand-crafted condiments, such as their irresistible tirokafteri, take the lead. Don’t forget to savour a bite of fermented bread with linseed and herbs, with your eyes closed.
Address: 166 Kallirois, Petralona
To Koperti Wine Bar
When a place derives its name from the most nostalgic melody that became a Lena Platonos song, it’s bound to be wonderful. Fortunately, Petralona’s To Koperti lives up to its name, treating us to extraordinary wines and appetizers. This unpretentious and truly cosy wine restaurant is a gem.
The menu adjusts to the seasons and ingredient availability, and the restaurant’s team is delighted to help you pair your selection with a meal that will complement the wine’s flavor. Some dishes, such as pumpkin puree and stuffed grapes in a risotto-style concoction, have already made the rounds in the city, attracting food and wine enthusiasts eager to taste.
Address: 188 Trion Ierarchon, Ano Petralona