Once upon a time in Athens, venturing out for a coffee or a sweet treat signified much more than a mere cafe visit. It was more of an event, perhaps the most momentous occasion of the entire week. It was an eagerly awaited experience that incited the young ladies of old Athens to meticulously plan what they would be wearing many days in advance, and exchanging ribbons, social tidbits and advice.
Gradually, cafes in the heart of the capital, from Zappeion to Plaka, acquired a glamorous cultural presence, serving not just as gathering points where urban society congregated, but lively hubs. They became the key meeting places for individuals from literary and artistic circles – poets and writers, budding politicians, diplomats, actors, and composers, blossomin into nuclei of valuable intellectual, artistic and romantic exchanges.
Despite the passage of time, a handful of cafes in Athens still manage, even today, to retain this character. The aura of a place that in essence no longer exists, although its beautiful memory endures. We present them to you here.
Dexameni
At the foothills of Lycabettus hill, beside one of the city’s nicest open-air cinemas, and the impressive ancient Roman aquaeduct that this spot is named after, you can sit at a green metal table (usually after queueing for at least 10 minutes, as this place doesn’t accept reservations) and enjoy a real taste of Athens nostalgia.
Dexameni was once the haunt of acclaimed Greek writers Alexandros Papadiamantis and Kostas Varnalis, a popular urban café that emerged as an intellectual hub for many years until it closed its doors for a few years at the beginning of the 21st century. When it reopened in 2012, in a modern and renovated yet still cosy and buzzy rendition, it quickly regained its stature as one of the city’s favourite casual hangouts suitable at any time in the day when the climate is good – from morning coffee with the paper and a slightly boozy after-work meze, to a post-cinema drinks.
Order a frosty tap beer, icy tsipouro or an Aperol Spritz and some essential Greek meze dishes and let go in the carefree yet vibrant ambience in one of the most beautiful spots in the entire capital.
Address: Dexameni Square, Kolonaki, Athens
Oraia Ellas
Situated, since 1920, on Mitropoleos Street, at the corner of the Pandrosou arcade, with interiors that are more reminiscent of a museum than a coffee shop, this old Athenian locale is laden with historical artefacts, original documents from the early 20th century, silkscreen prints, linocuts, antique engravings, utilitarian items, clothes and accessories from a different era.
During the warmest days of the year, you can opt to sit at its outdoor tables, although the view from the cafe’s first floor — with a splendid design overseen by renowned architect Dimitris Pikionis — is so lovely that you’ll probably be tempted to stay right there.
Grab a spot by the window and soak up the captivating beauty of the Anafiotika neighbourhood, which sprawls uphill, and the Acropolis, so close that you’ll feel you can reach out and touch them. Don’t forget to try some Turkish delight with your coffee.
Address: Mitropoleos 9 & Pandrosou 36, Athens
Filion
On Skoufa Street, just a few meters down from the Church of Aghios Dionysios, you’ll come across this cafe, a renowned intellectual haunt in Athens that has been attracting a select crowd for 32 years. Elegant yet unadorned, refined and unpretentiously cosmopolitan, Filion embodies the spirit and the aura of old Athens. The venerated establishment, once known as Dolce, stands steadfastly in place at the junction of Skoufa and Lykavittou streets.
At its outdoor tables, beneath the distinctive green awning inscribed with the name ‘Filion’, somewhat reminiscent of a Parisian café, you will always see figures from the local political arena, actors, artists, composers, and writers. They begin their day with a warm cappuccino and a piece of syrupy orange pie on the side, often delving into deep conversations.
In the quaint quarter of Kolonaki, Filion continues to serve exceptional sweets, including nostalgic Greek desserts like ‘sokolatina’, a rich, creamy chocolate cake. When there, also try their crepes and ice cream, which pair harmoniously with flavourful coffees.
Address: 31 Skoufa, Kolonaki, Athens
Alexandrino
Without question one of the most stylish and scenic cafes in the city, Alexandrino has an undeniable finesse that has captivated a loyal clientele who have loved its ambience and service for decades. The allure doesn’t end indoors; the few marble tables placed on the pedestrian pavement of Emmanouil Benaki Street are invariably occupied, come morning or night, year-round.
Alexandrino is hewn from the very same fabric that once defined the old central Athenian cafes; it is innately destined to become a haunt and a rendezvous point. This place stands as a perpetual appointment for those drawn to its discerning music selection, its dollhouse-like milieu, and a home-like aura reminiscent of our ancestral living room.
The cafe’s decor and menu are visibly influenced by French bistro culture. In the evenings, the subdued lighting creates an unimaginably romantic atmosphere, perfectly condusive for unwinding and engaging in conversation. The bar, with its array of splendid cocktails and drinks, promises to lure you back as a cosy retreat of elegance and warmth.
Address: 69a Emmanouil Benaki, Exarcheia, Athens
Iasemi
Among the most notable traditional coffeehouses in Athens, on the steps of Mnisikleous Street, Iasemi is more than just a popular haunt for the locals who flock to its signature tables every weekend; it has also carved a niche as an attractive stop for tourists eager to savour homemade mezedes and exquisite handmade sweets under the Acropolis.
When the weather is not quite warm enough to settle on the photogenic Plaka steps, the cafe has a wonderfully cosy and stylish interior with a large, vintage-style fireplace that turns it into a snug and nostalgic sanctuary.
At Iasemi, whatever you choose to order is fresh and homemade. From the dishes of the day to the spoon sweets and fruit juices, it serves remarkable food, and over the past few years, has expanded to accommodate a burgeoning clientele. On the first floor, you’ll discover another elegantly designed room, featuring large windows with a view of Anafiotika.
Address: 23 Mnisikleous, Plaka, Athens
Cherchez La Femme
On Mitropoleos street, Athenians and tourists alike make a pit stop at a cafe that catches the eye of passers-by from the very first instance. The pretty cafe-bistro has gastronomic roots deeply embedded in Greek tradition, serving light meals and snacks inspired by classic recipes with a slightly modern twist, as well as hot drinks, delicious refreshments and desserts.
Sit inside, where a bar takes centre stage, or watch the world go by at an outdoor table, in the morning, when you can order a substantial and delicious breakfast with eggs, homemade jams, cold cuts and cheeses, or late into the evening with a glass of wine and light meal, observing the city’s bustling life. Alternatively, opt for an afternoon Greek coffee accompanied by the utterly chocolatey Cherchez La Femme cake, or a refreshing delicious homemade mandarin juice.
Address: 46 Mitropoleos, Monastiraki, Athens
