Imagine being right there on the island, absorbing that dreamy sea view, the taste of the salty air, the light-headedness from sipping ouzo, feeling the pebbles beneath your feet, the sea urchins, the beaches, and the starry nights.

18

Thankfully, so that you don’t have to wait until next summer arrives, there are eight spots in Athens that can satiate your longing for that island ambience and carefree spirit, primarily by offering the culinary counterbalance to our island nostalgia. Here, you can savor authentic tastes from Lesvos, Chios, Kasos, Amorgos, Karpathos, and Crete.

01

Lesvos Cuisine at Ouzeri I Lesvos

An old piano, a jukebox, and a mosaic floor set the stage for the simple, yet intense, meze showdown that has been playing out on Emmanouil Benaki street since 1970. I Lesvos, where a colourful societal variety mixes and matches, focuses on traditional marinades, wholesome recipes, and fresh fish and seafood prepared in all kinds of ways. Light, golden frying, delightful dips, fresh bread daily, and of course, a good variety of the distinct Mytilene ouzo, make this ouzeri a must-visit. It’s always wise to ring ahead and reserve a table.

Emmanouil Benaki 38, Exarcheia

Website

02

Lesvos Cuisine at I Lesvion

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In Galatsi, there’s an ouzeri frequented by loyal regulars. They serve cheeses from Mesotopo and Agra, traditional skipjack tuna (‘lakerda’), sushi-like Kalloni sardines, small, crisp pan-fried fish and, of course, charcoal-grilled octopus. These are just some of the standout choices from their concise yet comprehensive menu. Everything is cooked and seasoned with oils from Mytilene, paired with a selection of ouzo and tsipouro. Patrons also opt for the local house wine, the Moschato of Alexandria.

Vardousion 3, Galatsi

Website

03

Chios Cuisine at Peinaleon

High up on Mavromichali Street in Neapoli on the border of Exarcheia, Peinaleon resonates to the flavorsome beats of rebetiko. This is one of Athens’ hidden treasures. Dishes inspired by Chios, made with passion and homely touches, such as pork with mastic or the ‘hunkiar beyendi’, which journeyed from Turkey to the Aegean coasts and nearby islands, are paired with stuffed grape leaves (‘dolmades’), fresh salads bursting with aromatic herbs, and top-shelf spirits, bottled or straight from the barrel. On Wednesdays, live music at Peinaleon is performed unplugged, harmonizing perfectly with the gastronomic experience, filled with memories and influences from the fragrant Chios.

Mavromichali 152, Exarcheia

Website

04

Cretan Cuisine at Rakoumel

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Heading down Emmanouil Benaki, you’ll discover the Cretan taverna Rakoumel. They serve authentic, utterly delicious, and generously portioned dishes that transport you to Crete. Fennel pie with fresh herbs, small mizithra cheese pies, zucchini flowers stuffed with rice, potatoes with staka butter, omelet with sygklino, xigalo cheese from Siteia, pork fry-up with honey, skioufichta pasta with sausage, eggplant and ‘stakovoutyro’, among other equally tantalizing options. All of these pair excellently with the organic rakomelo (raki, cooked with honey and spices) from Toplou Monastery and Rethymnian beer.

Emmanouil Benaki 71, Exarcheia

Website

05

Cretan Cuisine at O Mitos

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In Kallithea, a sip of Crete awaits. At O Mitos, the first welcome, not to mention the entire culinary journey, is authentically Cretan, specifically from Rethymno. In this hospitable coffeehouse, raki arrives partnered with seasonal mezes. Try the apaki, baby artichokes and juicy olives. Taste the pork from free-grazing animals that feast exclusively on acorns; it’s intensely aromatic and juicy, presented with admirable simplicity. As you eat, the watchful gazes of the famous Greek musician Nikos Xylouris and the renowned politician Eleftherios Venizelos from their portraits supervise, as the raw, almost primal beauty of Cretan cuisine graces your table. Warm chicory with green, unripe olive oil, bitter snails, divine cheeses, chickpea avgolemono, roasted lamb heads for the adventurous. By morning, they serve coffee, reflecting their true roots as a traditional, age-old coffeehouse, complete with a familiar ambience: backgammon, television, and worry beads.

Aristeidou 62, Kallithea

Website

06

Amorgos Cuisine at Amorgiano Perasma

Sip on roasted, sweet raki sprinkled with cinnamon, building anticipation for the mouthwatering meze dishes to come. Amorgos cheese pies with honey and sesame, tomato keftedes, apaki (cured meat dish) with rusks and tomato, and notably, a delectably hearty meat pie. The monastery of Chozoviotissa in Amorgos is the origin of the raki recipe that has given this place its reputation. Behind the meze joint, there’s also a bar, emanating similar Amorgos vibes, but without the array of mezes.

Sivitanidou 51, Kallithea

Website

07

Kassos Cuisine at Akri

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In Piraeus, home to a port that takes you to so many destinations, the essence of Kasos is palpable because of this place. Here, Kasos flaunts its unique culinary prowess and even owns its dedicated spot named after the Agia Marina neighborhood on the island. Its kitchen crafts magic from humble ingredients, paired with a captivating backstory. At Akri, we indulge in delectably tiny dolmadakia and makarounes pasta paired with sitaka (a cheese from Kasos), a dish that beckons us time and time again. The view of the sea coupled with the surrounding blue-and-white setting instantly transports us straight to the Aegean.

Akti Themistokleous 298, Piraeus

Website

08

Karpathos Cuisine at Kastello

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This cafe on Koumoundourou Street has long been the gathering spot for Karpathos locals who left their homeland for life in Athens. Today, however, it also attracts a new crowd. Youngsters with an appetite for traditional music, and seasoned regulars with a penchant for honest, uncomplicated and flavor-packed meze dishes. Most of what you taste here has journeyed by boat directly from Karpathos: thin bread rings, capers, rice-stuffed grape leaves, macaroni, and their potent raki. Be prepared: some evenings transform into spontaneous revelries filled with the sounds of lutes and bagpipes echoing through the streets. It’s an experience not to be missed

Evripidou 88, Koumoundourou Square

Website