Fresh fish may be an expensive treat, but in recent years more and more affordable and sophisticated fish taverns have begun to appear in Athens. Modern taverns with a laid-back atmosphere, as well as hidden ouzeri (a type of Greek tavern) in and out of the city centre, specialising in hitherto unknown small fish and tempting us to enjoy their finger-licking dishes without going over budget.
Barbounaki by Papaioannou
One of the first restaurants that successfully put the spotlight on the everyday aspect of fish eating, which is why six “Barbounakia” (mullets) –bearing the signature of the impeccable seafood connoisseur George Papaioannou- are now swimming in the city’s gastronomic tank. From the city centre to the suburbs, “Barbounaki” serves all kinds of small fish and seafood – grilled, marinated and fried – but also interesting stews such as braised sardines with tomato sauce and Florina pepper mousse, and of course stripped red mullets -grilled or fried.
2, Patriarchou Grigoriou & Patriarchou Ioakim, N. Erithrea, +30 210 8070300/ 6, Lykourgou Street, Halandri, +30 210 6749999/ 39B, Charitos Street, Kolonaki, +30 210 7242717/ 4, Mitropoleos Square, Athens, +30 210 3247700/ 74, Megalou Alexandrou Street, Nea Smyrni, +30 210 9359500/ 48, Aggelou Metaxa Street, Glyfada, +30 210 9680651, Facebook
Psarrou
Psarrou is a beautiful modern fish tavern with a warm and relaxed atmosphere spreading its delicious nets in two wonderful and unique locations – in the heart of Glyfada and Lavrio. All kinds of seafood delights have a place on the menu, either in their classic or in a more modern version, such as for example sole wrapped in kataifi dough, served with sweet and sour sauce, pineapple and ginger, smoked mackerel with pickled okra and mussels with teriyaki and chilli sauce. Note that you will also find a very good selection of bottled spirits sourced from various regions of Greece.
14, Lazaraki & Dousmani, Glyfada, +30 210 9680040, Facebook
Kanari Square (behind the Town Hall), Lavrio, +30 22921 59003, Facebook
Psarakia & thalassina
At the tables of this four-member seafood “family” – in Glyfada and Varkiza for those in the southern suburbs, in Halandri and Kifissia for those who prefer the north – you can enjoy imaginative fish dishes at low prices. Try their octopus salad, fried zucchini and aubergines with garlicky tomato sauce and melted cheese, alongside classics such as orzo casserole with shrimps and stakovoutiro (fresh cream butter).
60, Kyprou Street, Glyfada, +30 210 8983555
14, Poseidonos Avenue, Varkiza, +30 210 9654138
5, Kosta Varnali Street, Halandri, +30 210 6855932
27, Ilision Street, Kifissia, +30 210 6203622, Facebook
Psarochori
The white and minimalist décor may suggest a seaside restaurant, but in reality Psarochori is located on Tsocha Street, very close to Mavili Square. Often enriched with daily specials, the menu offers classic and more modern seafood delights, with a special emphasis on raw dishes. For a main course, it is worth trying cod with vegetables or their speciality, the fish of the day in a salt crust.
21, Tsocha Street, Athens, +30 210 6438691, Facebook
Ouzeri tou Laki
Well hidden in the small Elpidos Street near Victoria Square, this one-room eatery goes almost unnoticed. But it is one of the favourite places of the savvy seafood eaters among us, who check their Facebook posts daily to see what’s on the menu and pre-order. The menu changes depending on the catch of the day. Lately, they’ve been serving often seafood gemista (Greek stuffed vegetables), cuttlefish with trahana (a tiny, pebble-shaped type of pasta), as well as baked cod with potatoes and celeriac.
16, Elpidos pedestrian street, Victoria Square, +30 210 8213776, Facebook
Fifty Fish
Boasting a cheerful and modern atmosphere, this restaurant on Agios Konstantinou Street in Maroussi, serves funky and often subversive seafood dishes in a quiet garden surrounded by lush greenery. Grilled eggplant with smoked trout, Caesar’s salad with shrimps and pita chips, burger with handmade fresh salmon patty, perch fillet cooked on a spit, but also bao buns, sushi rolls, nigiri and sashimi.
50, Agiou Konstantinou Street, Maroussi, +30 210 6300026, Facebook
O Giorgis tou vithou
It is a renowned fish shop in Lykovrisi that also features a few tables where you can enjoy the fish of your choice and some of their many delicious seafood dishes: sand smelts, anchovies, bogues, sardines, pan-fried broadtail squids, octopus grilled or marinated in vinegar, steamed or fried mussels. And if you are still hungry, try the shrimps with fried rice and wine sauce, mussels with rice (midopilafo) and the seafood pasta.
92, Sophocle Venizelou, Lykovrisi, +30 210 2848050, Facebook
Zisis, Fish in a cone
Located just a few steps from Agia Irini Square, as soon as it opened, it managed to fill the centre of Athens with seafood cones. The paper cones are filled with sand smelts, anchovies, sardines, squid, tiny shrimps, breaded prawns and cod strips. You may find also fried smoked mussels, shrimp saganaki (shrimps in a tomato and feta cheese sauce), fried cod with skordalia (traditional Greek potato and garlic dip), as well as grilled broadtail squids, octopus and sardines.
3, Athinaidos Street, Athens, +30 210 3211152, Facebook
