A few weeks ago we found ourselves in Trikala and Kalambaka, where tourism may be a safety net, yet at the same time, locals are not complacent and everyone is trying for the better.
At every step you hear an idea; many of them have already been implemented, while others are on the way.
Focusing on gastronomy and local products, we visited the pioneers of each of them and introduce them to you.
A traditional cook from the kitchen of a kindergarten in the kitchen of Efrosino in Kastraki
Efrosino is located in the shadow of Meteora and Mrs Eleni is the soul of the restaurant. The latter is curated by her son, Christos, “who has an eye for detail”, and everyone who works there does their best. Her daughter, Evangelia, works in service, while Christos’ wife, Chrysoula, is in charge of the day-to-day running of the business.
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Long before we arrived, everyone was talking about the amazing pies prepared by Mrs. Eleni with words of praise. “Let’s make a pie” she says and invites us to join in the process. Together with her assistant, Sophie, they set off. You can’t keep up with her hands. She makes a paper-thin pastry sheet, while Sophie has the filling ready. In no time the pie is done. “Come by in an hour to try it,” she tells us, and we don’t miss the chance.
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Despite the fact that Efrosino lies in the heart of tourist traffic, it manages to maintain its character; aesthetically unaltered, Efrosino offers truly delicious food. And it couldn’t be otherwise, because Mrs Eleni puts everything into perspective. Mr Panagiotis is responsible for the grill, while apart from the pies, here we can try oven-roasted braised meatballs, beef stew, lamb casserole, butter beans, soups and much more. Mrs Eleni’s food will always come out a winner.
Kastraki, Kalambaka, +30 24320 78131
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The brand new Mirtilo in Trikala
They are young and sparkling with creativity; they are not complacent and prove that teams are invincible. We met Harris Triantafyllidis, Giorgos and Themis Tzelis at the brand new Mirtilo in Trikala, a characterful and fun place that serves steaming, fragrant coffee, delicious sandwiches and many more brunch options, including hot dogs, and delicious pizzas.
A welcoming, modern and bright space next to Amberg Square – opened a few weeks ago- offering something different, from early morning until late. The square owes its name to the Bavarian town of the same name in Germany, with which Trikala has a twinning agreement.
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Among other things, Mirtilo serves crispy pork pancetta burger, crispy chicken bao bun, pork stew and smoked mayonnaise, pancakes and sandwiches.
Mirtilo, +30 24310 20027, Instagram: @mirtilo_coffee_and_food
A genuine Italian restaurant in the heart of Trikala
Opened a few weeks ago, in the Manavika district of Trikala, it is called il cucinotto and brings with it the authentic Italian aperitivo experience. Hailing from Milan, Enzo Bertocco – the restaurant’s owner- has been living in Trikala for three years now.
We found the restaurant somewhat accidentally, while walking in the town centre. Seeing a beautiful, illuminated two-storey neoclassical building, we decided to take a closer look. The building is entered sideways through the courtyard, which houses a bar and a wood-fired oven. The space exudes an air of tranquillity. We sat at the welcoming bar, an ideal spot to try genuine Italian cocktails based on Italian spirits prepared by the bar manager, Angelos, a man with fresh and alternative ideas.
We accompanied our drinks with one of the authentic Neapolitan pizzas prepared by Silvio, a Neapolitan pizzaiolo who prepares the pizza dough daily based on the authentic Neapolitan recipe. The pizza is prepared in an open kitchen, next to the bar, with fresh ingredients and baked in the traditional, authentic Neapolitan wood-fired oven “Zenarino”.
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Giorgio and his team prepare daily handmade fresh pasta with the traditional Italian recipe and all the sauces. They use local meats of excellent quality, selected with care and attention, meats sourced from specific and reliable micro-producers of the province. Also, many of the ingredients come straight from Italy.
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Just before we leave Il cucinotto behind, we take a stroll around the rest of the premises. Entering the building, built in 1906, we find the main hall of the restaurant, comfortable and welcoming, with nice colours and discreet decoration.
65, Karaiskaki Street, Trikala, +30 6985 034734, Instagram: ilcucinotto_osteria_italiano
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The Boulogiorgos confectionery
The Boulogiorgos confectionery makes the most delicious halva Farsalon (traditional dessert originating from Farsala, Greece, made with corn starch, sugar, melted clarified butter and toasted almonds) in Trikala, as well as many other syrupy delicacies. We met Panagiotis Boulogiorgos, who, after telling us about the 42-year history of the business and the contribution of his father Ioannis, showed us how they make this unique halva that is talked about all over the city. Panagiotis, 36, grew up in the workshop where he learned the best way to make their sweets next to his father and then attended classes at a pastry school in Thessaloniki.
He adds water and sugar to the copper pot and as the temperature rises, he stirs to make syrup. He then adds butter and cornstarch, continues to stir and the mixture begins to thicken. Meanwhile, as it blends with the butter and takes on that ruby red colour, the room is already filled with aromas. Depending on the version, you can add almonds or other nuts. We leave the workshop and the aromas do not fade; a warm piece of halva is waiting for us to taste it.
In another part of the workshop, deft confectioners work fervently, making mouth-watering syrupy deserts such as baklava, kataifi and many many more.
Stratigou Sarafi & Amalias (Opposite the main square of Trikala), +30 24310 26861, Instagram: @enakaikati
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Baking pies in Arados restaurant’s wood-fired oven in Agios Dimitrios, Kalambaka
Arriving at Agios Dimitrios, a few kilometres outside Kalambaka, we head towards the village square, which is surrounded by rocks similar to those of Meteora. Mrs Voula and Mr Stefanos have already lit the wood-fired oven, which is already blazing.
We’d heard a lot about this village and about the plans to create in the near future an adventure park in the surrounding rocks, as well as a 7 km trail that will lead to the settlement of Gavros. One thing led to another and so we found ourselves in the kitchen of Arados restaurant watching the pie making process. First the dough: flour, olive oil, lukewarm water, salt and a splash of vinegar. After being carefully kneaded, the dough is divided into ball-shaped pieces, so that each of them can be used to make a sheet of dough. The dough is allowed to rest for some time and then a delicate stick is used to roll out the dough; the sheets of dough are rolled out so thin that they appear almost transparent, and then they are placed one by one on the baking tray. The process is repeated for 8-10 times. The filling, which has been prepared with the valuable help of Mrs Stella, contains, apart from spinach and leek, dill, spring onions, feta and pazi, a special tasty green that grows in the area. The tray is ready to go into the oven.
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In the meantime, Mr Stefanos has already lit the fire and is roasting the shop’s famous ribs. Fresh salads, cheeses, meats and hot pies are already on the table. A warm atmosphere, a family feeling, delicious food and nice conversations. The experience at Arados was unique and delightful at the same time.
Agios Dimitrios, Kalambaka, +30 24320 88187
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The famous lamb chops in Gousios tavern
Gousios is a very famous chop house across Thessaly and beyond. They have their own stable with a rare Greek breed of lambs, the Kalaritika. It is worth noting that in all of Greece there are only 5,500 animals of this breed with the University of Crete doing special research on these animals, which take about 3 months to grow to 10 kilos and can survive even in conditions with 30-40 inches of snow. Their meat is very special and stands out from other lambs’.
We arrived in Gousios on a Thursday afternoon. The sun was shining, but it was still freezing. A huge fire was humming in the fireplace and another by the grill. The table was set and apart from everything else I can’t help but mention first of all the lamb chops and sausages they produce, curing in the cold air in the butcher’s area next to the tavern. Mrs Maria is in the kitchen making pies, fresh salads, boiled greens, spetsofai (spicy Greek sausages with peppers and tomato sauce) and probably some of the most delicious fries we have ever tasted.
Elafi, Kalambaka, Provincial Road Klinou – Mourgkani, +30 24320 88008
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These are the traditional sausages of Trikala from Filyra
Almost twenty years have passed since Apostolos Skabardonis decided and implemented his idea to deal with the production of traditional Trikala sausages. We met him at his company’s premises in Filyra, Trikala and he talked to us about his vision and his need to strengthen local products so that they can come out of anonymity. Among the main products produced by the company, which have won international quality awards, are the rustic leek sausages, the Tzoumagia sausages from Asia Minor, the Karamanlidika based on the classic recipe that revives memories of the Karamanlidika products of the Greeks of Cappadocia, the oregano sausages and the chicken meat sausages.
Filyra, Trikala, +30 24340 22389, www.authentictrikalon.com
Liakos Winery in Gavros, Kalambaka
In 2006, the Liakos family decided to plant their first small vineyard. Three years later, the winery was born, aiming to produce quality wines based on the characteristics of the region’s microclimate. We met Vasilis Liakos, the son of the family, who is 23 years old and shared with us his great love for wine, the vineyard and winemaking. He has studied agribusiness and food business management and has also completed the WSPC, which is one of the most demanding courses in the wine industry.
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The microclimate of the region is a catalyst for the creation of unique wines for the Greek region. Low yields per acre and careful harvesting of the grapes ensure the best possible quality. The vineyards are located at an altitude of 470 metres on sloping, south-facing, clayey soils.
Vasilis Liakos gave us a tour of the winery and also talked to us about the combination of tourism and wine. In a neat, comfortable and welcoming space, the visitor can taste the wines of the estate, learn details about the production, the varieties and about the region in general and its relationship with wine.
Gavros, Kalambaka, +30 24320 95373
