Small and compact, rebellious and slightly solitary in the corner of the Minor Cyclades, Herakleia abounds with distinctive flavours; its fragrances and scents are pure, suiting every mood and epicurean desire. Following the general rule of travel in Greece, the evolution, ideas, and offering of food are continually improving without the authentic character of the place being compromised. We explored the island’s dining scene and selected the absolutely best choices for our readers to discover for themselves.
Arakleia
Yiannis Gavalas has accomplished what many might dream of doing, but few realise. After a successful 26-year journey in gastronomy, having worked in kitchens in Athens, Crete, and Mykonos, he decided to return to his place of origin and establish his own culinary haven. The family home, perched high on Agios Georgios, on the spine of a hill with an idyllic view towards Schoinousa and Venetiko, seems to have been always destined for this purpose. Upon entry, professionalism in every detail is the dominant element.
Amidst aesthetical elements reminiscent of a bygone era of Irakleia, the brilliant, splendid kitchen connects the past with the new era of the island’s gastronomy. Gavalas cooks an experiential, authentic and realistic cuisine, devoid of embellishments, with a carefully arranged, clean presentation. Having on his side from the outset the positive responses and reception of the local residents for his daring venture, he feels like a member of a team that shares knowledge among its members with the common goal of elevating and constantly improving the evolution of the island’s gastronomy.
Only a few short years after its inception, I dare say that “Arakleia” belongs to the category of a gastronomic destination in the Aegean. With ingredients from the islands of the Cyclades, herbs and spices that he collects himself from the island’s slopes in winter, with wines and beers 80% from the Cyclades, an invitingly hospitable atmosphere, and flavours that are unique and supremely delicious, “Arakleia” has won many bets altogether.
We sampled the homemade, Greek, tightly-wrapped dolmades, vine leaves stuffed with rice, bulgur wheat, and fresh herbs, yoghurt cream and fragrant olive oil; the Irakleian lamb fricassee with wild fennel, and pan-fried meatballs made from fresh beef and pork mince in olive oil; the Cycladic salad with Naxos tomatoes, arugula, Mykonos louza ham, Schinoussa sour cheese, rusk, Tinos sea samphire and oxymelo (a type of balsamic); and for the grand finale, Yiannis regaled us with the ultimate dessert, the Trilogy of Syros Loukoumi (rose ice cream, bergamot jelly, mastic bites) with a crumble of Santorini meletini sweet.
Four dishes with half the Cyclades in their ingredients. The meal was accompanied by a white wine, bottled specifically for the restaurant, a blend of Moschofilero, Roditis, and Kydonitsa.
Address: Agios Georgios, Tel: 22850 71570, 6944862603, Website: www.araklia.gr
Askos
Formerly known as “Aiolos” until June 2021, “Askos” holds a lofty position in Agios Georgios, commanding a privileged view to the west, beyond the shores of distant Naxos. This culinary haven dreams of marrying Greek tradition with Italian finesse. Michalis Roussos, a chef versed in Italian cuisine, introduces local fare into his creations, sourcing cockerel and beef from either Naxos or Amorgos. Notable among his dishes are the ravioli with cockerel, a classic Bolognese, and the enticing rolls of aubergine filled with cheese cream, accompanied by tomato jam. Do try his signature dish, breaded Naxos graviéra served with lemon jam.
Address: Agios Georgios, Tel. 22850 77565, facebook.com
Thymari
Perched atop the rocks of Agios Georgios’ eastern edge, en route to Livadi Beach, Thymari heralds Mediterranean cuisine at its most authentic. The locale, once known as Surfin Bird, was a cherished bar and a meeting place for visitors and locals alike. The restaurant, conceived by the owner of Surfin Bird, Angelos Tzortzis, in collaboration with the brothers Jonathan and Stamatis Pavlis, was added to the site in 2018, thus completing the aesthetic experience of the venue.
From early June to mid-September, this restaurant offers simple dishes crafted from Cycladic produce, such as pasta, xynomizithra cheese, cherry tomatoes, fava beans, Naxos potatoes (with or without eggs), handmade spreads, pizzas, and traditionally cooked meats. There’s also a burger for which the team is particularly proud. Dining here is a celebration of local taste, underscored by some of the island’s most stunning views of Schoinoussa. After dinner, moving to the bar for a drink is a must, where the adjacent perch offers one of the island’s most breathtaking views.
Address: Livadi, Irakleia, Tel: 22850 77635, 6909566958, Website: www.thymarirestaurant.gr
I Drosia
In the central alleyway of Panagia’s settlement (the Chora), in an unpretentious and village-like setting with cool shades of blue and white, twenty-year-old Giannis Gavalas has taken over and proudly carries on a cherished family tradition. Pictures of his Uncle Nikitas Chiotinis and Aunt Anna Chiotini adorn a small window facing the street, evidence of a culinary gene that has been passed down to their young nephew, who took over the taverna in the summer of 2020 at the tender age of 17. His father and two brothers wait in the yard, ready to assist when the day’s work begins, while Giannis, in the kitchen, carefully carves a head of ladotyri cheese beneath a beautifully constructed roof of reeds, reminiscent of the homes of old.
He carefully portions servings, dices fresh zucchinis and cucumbers from the garden, and embellishes fava with caramelized onions, all while lamb chops sizzle and pop on the grill. Along with the freshly grilled items, offerings also include wraps, skewer portions, kebabs, and a menu that is rounded off by a deliciously stewed red goat dish, an Irakleia speciality. The symphony of aromas and tastes is an ode to old, cherished family taverns, now in very youthful hands.
Address: Panagia (Chora), Tel: 6988724349, facebook.com
Speires
Within the beautifully and meticulously decorated space of the eponymous hotel, curated by Melpo Valsami in a cool courtyard overlooking Agios Georgios, a wine bar has been established that emphasizes pairing with tasteful and very intriguing accompaniments. The success here is the pinsa, a small variation of classic pizza, with a thinner, healthier, crispier dough, and an unruly visual appeal, served with various toppings. The menu offers many flavour combinations with corresponding wines from the matched cellar, making Speires an interesting alternative gastronomic option. Particularly tasty are the delicate Avocado Pinsa with fresh olive oil, the Pinsa Speires with Naxos graviera cheese, mozzarella, onion, and smoked pancetta, as well as the Pinsa Trufa with Naxos graviera cheese, just enough truffle oil, and handmade fig paste.
Address: Agios Georgios, Tel: 22850 77015, 6973027104, Website: www.speires.gr
Akathi
A well-known taverna in the centre of Agios Georgios settlement, just a few meters away from the beach and the eponymous church. Famous for the fresh fish it serves, as it has its own boats for catching a fresh daily supply, Akathi has for many years also been an essential dining stop for those travelling with their boat in the Small Cyclades. The cuisine is refined, tasty, and very honest.
Address: Agios Georgios, Tel: 22850 71118, facebook.com
Our list of commendable, in some cases truly splendid, restaurants on the island of Heraklia is complemented by the likes of Pera Panta at Livadi, (Phone: 22850 77009), a place of oceanic delight, serving fantastic seafood flavours, amongst other things. It offers a daily variety of expertly cooked dishes, not to mention the rather startling, sautéed greens garnished with sunny-side-up eggs.
Also in Livadi is Thalassa (Phone: 22850 77710), a purveyor of both tasty cooked fare and excellent fish. Ypovrychio (Phone: 22850 74229) at Agios Georgios, and Syrma (Phone: 22850 71649) harboured in the port of the same name, both continue a tradition of quality. The latter, in particular, stands as a perennial gastronomic institution, dishing out scrumptious plates and nurturing a devout band of followers. The epicures, who return, year upon year, are rightly akin to pilgrims, retracing their steps to a beloved culinary shrine.
Read also:
Heraklia: The little island-symbol of life on the Small Cyclades
Sailing at the Small Cyclades -Aegean’s most impressive waters, sea caves, secluded bays
