A Foreign Foodie’s Guide to Naxian Eats

I first visited Naxos about five years ago with my boyfriend who hails from the island and have been returning at least twice a year ever since, and not only in summer. No matter the season, arriving by boat at this Cycladic island is impressive, as the main town Chora, with its little whitewashed houses guarded by the Venetian castle at the top of the hill and with the magnificent Portara greeting you on a rocky peninsula left of the port, is a stunningly beautiful sight.

But I don’t just keep returning to this beautiful island for its aesthetics. Since I am a food blogger and recipe developer, my main goal any time I travel is to find the best places to dine, snack, drink and buy great produce to munch on at home. So far, on every visit to Naxos my eating experience has been great.

Naxos is well known for its long sandy beaches, its traditional white houses, ancient archaeological sites, as a source for emery, and for its beautiful hiking paths, including a few going up the highest mountain peak in the Cyclades: Mount Zas where according to mythology Zeus grew up in a cave. But, if you’ve ever heard anything about this island you will surely know it is most famous (since ancient times) for being an extremely fertile island that produces various agricultural products such as their celebrated potatoes, Graviera Naxou cheese, and Kitron, a local citrus-based spirit. Because Naxos is an island with such a long agricultural history, many of the restaurants are proud to feature locally grown vegetables, fruits, meats and plenty of other dairy products and cheeses.

Between the narrow lanes of Kastro (old town) and the main port located at the south, you will find plenty decent restaurants, bars and cafés. Places such as Marou, Metaxi Mas, To Elliniko, Irini’s, Antamoma, Notos, Meli & Kanela, and Kitron Café are just a few of the more well-known establishments of the main town of Naxos.
Of course, you don’t have to stay in Chora to find good restaurants and you will find enough of those spread out all over the island. There’s no doubt you can find Naxos’ most famous restaurants yourself with just a few clicks around the internet and conversations with locals will surely uncover some more of the island’s hidden gems as well, but I can give you a head start with ten (more-or-less) of my favourite taverna, local producers and other island treats. I’ve listed my picks in alphabetical order, simply because I don’t want to pick favourites: they’re all good for different reasons!

Ο Αμοργινός / Απείραθος (Meat Lovers #1)

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Apeiranthos is one of the most charming places on Naxos and right at the centre of this beautiful mountain village you can find Amorginos tavern. This place is for real meat lovers since the establishment has their own butchery (and a great cheese and local produce shop across the street). Here you can taste some authentic specialties from Apeiranthos, such as various grilled meats, a pork stew rosto and local cheeses, but if you are lucky and want to try something really special, you might be able to find zamboni on the menu. Zamboni is a locally-produced (they make their own) type of salt-cured pork ham that’s only prepared once a year and is only available for a certain period, so it’s pretty rare. The very salty, very fatty, thin slices of pork are usually served as a cold meze and may not be to everyone’s taste, but I believe they are a real treasure.

Η Αξιωτισσα / Kastraki (Seasonal and Organic)

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This well-known taverna located in a beautiful little garden just off the road to the beautiful Alyko beach focuses on serving local Greek cuisine made with fresh, seasonal and organic ingredients. The menu is prone to change according to what produce is available, but there are always some exceptional dishes that are hard to find in many of the other restaurants: real Cycladic Kopanisti cheese with fried okra, fresh sea urchins, and almyra, just to name a few. In summer, their stuffed zucchini, goat kleftiko, and all of their super-fresh salads are a real treat after a long day at the beach. Speaking of treats, don’t forget to try out their homemade ice creams – the rose flavoured one is divine! Due to their popularity, it’s notoriously difficult to get a table, so make sure to make a reservation – this really is a place you do not want to miss out on.

Βαραββάς / Χώρα (Drinks and Meze)

Basically, my favourite place on the entire island to gather with some friends to have casual dinner or some drinks and bites. This family-run ouzeri located just off the main boulevard of Chora is loved by locals for their drinks, meze and simple platters of freshly grilled fish and seafood.
The grilled octopus, cuttlefish, and sardines are particularly delicious, but, if you are looking for more unusual local dishes, make sure to try out the grilled gouna a sundried mackerel that is served whole and is flavoured with lots of oregano and the salatouri a skate fish (σαλάχι) salad that originated in the Cyclades. All dishes here are best enjoyed with some local ouzo, wine, or raki and a big group of friends for the most authentic Naxian experience.

Στου Βασιλαράκιου / Κυνίδαρος (Meat Lovers #2)

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In Kinidaros, a small picturesque mountain village outside the more usual tourist paths, you’ll find another butchery-slash-taverna. At Vasilarakiou, you’ll find a great selection of meat coming from their own butchery which has been operating since 1931. Each cut of meat is locally raised, beautifully cut, and sublimely grilled on a huge grill near the entrance of the shop. Here you can gorge on juicy homemade sausages, mouth-watering grilled lamb and goat chops, incredibly soft dry aged beef steaks (various cuts) and a kontosouvli and kokoretsi both of which are amazingly crisp on the outside and perfectly cooked and juicy on the inside. Really the best place for meat you’ll find on the island. By the way, they’ve got surprisingly good side dishes and salads as well in case you need something green with all that meat.

Το Βασιλικό / Μέση Ποταμιά (Cooking Classes)

This cozy taverna is located at the intersection of several excellent hiking paths in a lush green valley in Mesi Potamia. The beautiful green garden full of home-grown vegetables and fruits really makes this the perfect place to enjoy some cold wine and some homemade Greek cuisine in the cooling shade of a tree. This is a true family countryside taverna focused on providing their guests with delicious, fresh food and real Greek hospitality. During summer, they usually host some wonderful cooking classes as well where you get to harvest some of the ingredients from their own garden and learn to cook them yourself.

Χαλκείο (Kitron, Art and Cafés)

I am listing this beautiful village as a whole for a few reasons. Not only is the entire village a beautiful sight to see with its Neoclassical houses, Byzanthian churches, Venetian towers and a handful of beautiful art shops, but it has plenty of food and drink related stuff to enjoy.
At the heart of this village, you can visit the historic Vallindras distillery where Naxos’ famous kitron liquor is still being made today. During a tour through this small but interesting place, you can learn all about the history of Naxos’ emblematic drink (and sample some too). Honestly, though? This sweet liquor is not going to be everyone’s favourite. Luckily, το Κιτρο (Kitron cocktail bar) is right nearby where you can refresh yourself on a hot summer’s eve with a cold beer or a yummy cocktail.
Not much of a boozer? Visit Caffé Greco for a coffee, Mitos ARTnernative BAR for a homemade lemonade and a lovely chocolatopita, or Το Σπιτικό Γαλακτομπούρεκο for their famous, well you guessed it: galaktoboureko.

Η Μικρή Φάρμα της Νάξου / Βίβλος (Τρίποδες) (Natural Farm)