You can’t be on an island and not have ouzo accompanied by fish. Let alone when you’re on an island whose fish market is at a prominent spot and the fish boats crowd the jetty at dawn bringing nets overflowing with the day’s catch.
Eating fish in Aegina, this beloved destination so close to the capital, with the many sights and hidden beauties, is a must. And for the ideal place to enjoy fresh fish and seafood, with ouzo or wine, you don’t even have to leave the island’s town. Starting at the lively and well-kept fish market and at a short distance from it, these are the places where you’ll drink and enjoy the sea’s offerings.
The traditional coffeeshops “Galaris” and “Moiras” on the promenade
Before your main meal, to sharpen your appetite, go for an ouzo with a meze. To be honest, even just a simple Greek coffee prepared in a briki (the special pot) is enough excuse to visit the beautiful – almost twin – kafenia (coffeeshops), standing next to each other and in operation for almost 60 years. A stone’s throw from the fish market and right across the vegetable stalls on the pier, underneath the elaborate balcony of the historic building that used to house the town hall, you’ll become one with the locals and the tourists, laid back youths and elders always willing to share stories from the past. Anastasia Galaris’ coffeeshop is bright red, Kostas Moiras’ coffeeshop bright green. There’s no rivalry between them, both exude a strong nostalgic chic vibe, both are simple and elegant, freshly painted but with apparent marks of the passage of time, they share a history and their clientele.
Grab a table outside to be able to see Dimokratias Avenue and the dock with the fish boats, or if it’s cold, get a table inside the small interiors with the walls full of stories in the form of framed black and white photos, old posters and newspaper clippings about the two coffee shops. Coffee is served with a spoon sweet, ouzo with the bare essentials, but the essence here is history and authenticity.
Ouzeri “O Skotadis”
If you got an appetite after the ouzo, then the best way to continue with great seafood is the now classic option: the ouzeri (traditional tavern serving fish and ouzo) “O Skotadis”. Its story began in a similar way to the coffeeshops we already mentioned, as this fish tavern started out as a coffeeshop after the Second World War. The simplicity of that coffeeshop that first opened in 1945 has evolved without changing in essence. Likewise with the name “Skotadis” (meaning the dark one), which was a nickname given by the locals to the owner Giannis Alifantis, as he opened before dawn, in the dark, to prepare the warm fish soup and the morning coffee for Aegina’s fishermen.
The business stayed in the family, it evolved into an ouzeri and the kitchen developed gastronomic concerns that resulted in seafood dishes that the best restaurants of its kind would envy. Yes, they’re that tasty. Tasting the perfectly boiled octopus served with thinly sliced Florina peppers and olive oil, the incredibly delicious smoked fava, the velvety skordalia (traditional potato and garlic dip) that accompanies the light, fried to perfection, cod, or even the fried ray, for a more interesting combination. Their salads with the fresh cheeses breaded with Aegina pistachio crumbs, emphasize the local sourcing of the ingredients. The legendary seafood orzo (known as kritharoto) justifies its reputation as one of the best dishes one can have in Aegina. You’ll enjoy the view of the dock with the colourful fish boats, and, choosing one of the carefully selected labels from the wine and spirit list, you’ll toast to grandpa “Skotadis” for his legacy to the island.
The taverns “Agora” and “To Steki” in the fish market
The atmosphere at the two taverns sharing the pedestrian alley right behind Aegina’s fish market is authentic and cult. Their clients are locals who know the right destination for the freshest fish, daily. Small fried fish, or larger grilled ones, boiled or fresh vegetables and spreads to go with them, rich seafood pasta dishes, fresh prawns and calamari, served either fried or stuffed. Here the variety of seafood is unsurpassed, and that’s why the tables are always full.
Take advantage of the proximity of the fish market, choose from the stalls whatever seems more delicious and ask for the taverns to prepare it the way you want. You’ll enjoy dishes at good prices, in a vibrant atmosphere, with the regulars having lively discussions. Bulk wine, cold beer and cats laying claim to the mezes complete the setting of a totally authentic experience that you have to have.
