Very few people know the square by its real name. Only the older ones do, because there, on the pedestrian street of Skouleniou, was once Obi bar and (still is) Horostasio with its hidden summer terrace. Most of us, however, know it as the square with the half-buried church below Klafthmonos Square. In this – until recently – “unknown” square, a nice and interesting street has been transformed into a thriving hub of activity. So let’s discover it.
Odori Vermuteria di Atene
One of the most successful all day bars in the city and the one that put vermouth back on the Athenian map and in our lives. Besides, we are talking about the first vermouth bar in Athens. The impressive bar that runs the length of the interior, the cage lights, the green wallpaper on the wall and the plants in the windows, create a courtyard-like setting. Of course, they also lay out tables on the pedestrian street, which tend to be among the first to sell out. Here at Odori you will enjoy sophisticated and very well-crafted drinks made by Manolis Lykiardopoulos and his team. In their majority they are based on vermouth as well as Greek products. You should definitely try one of the many different Negroni they serve, as they are known for their specialization in this particular cocktail. It’s also worth ordering one of their mouth-watering pizzas, baked in a wood-fired oven they’ve brought over from Italy. On weekends they serve brunch – reservations are essential – with an Italian orientation.
2, Skouleniou str. +30 210 3314674
Dopios
A fresh arrival in the square. The Pitsilis brothers, known from Balthazar bar-restaurant, together with Chef Christoforos Peskias, have set up a modern Greek mezze restaurant under the shade of the plane trees, which does not keep to the beaten track. Their dishes are given a more creative touch by using fresh ingredients in a range of special combinations. For example, they make avocado tzatziki and shrimp popcorn, accompanied by an aioli sauce with black garlic and umeboshi. Their marinated anchovies with herring mayonnaise, green tomato and kumquat slices are worth trying, as are their lamb sweetbreads with that devilishly spicy sauce. Of course, the chef’s famous meatballs are also on the menu, which, along with the crispy fried potatoes, are the ultimate summer dish.
1, Skouleniou str. +30 210 3310049
Juicy Grill
We waited a long time until the famous burger house of Holargos appeared in the city centre. The people responsible were Lefteris Georgopoulos and Giorgos Kaisaris, who convinced Demosthenes Kouvarakis, the mastermind and owner of Juicy Grill, to take the risk and make the next step. Located just behind the church of Agioi Theodoroi, it opened in the midst of quarantine and immediately became the talk of the town. At the moment, its menu is not as big as that offered in Holargos, but you’ll find over twenty different burgers. Some of them are served in buttery, soft brioche buns and some in bagels. I’d suggest you try the timeless Bill Murray with cheddar-stuffed beef patty, iceberg lettuce, tomato, house-made fried onion rings and chipotle aioli mayo, or the equally exuberant The Billion with garlic buttered bun, regatto cheese, double bacon, iceberg lettuce, tomato and house-made Caesar’s sauce, as well as the Chicken Hallooney with bacon-wrapped chicken fillet, halloumi cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion and honey-mustard sauce. The Farmer’s Market with panko-crusted chickpea patty, baby spinach, tomato, eggplant “bacon”, vegan cheese, vegan mayonnaise, is a scrumptious vegan choice. Don’t order fries separately because all burgers come with loads of them.
7, Paleon Patron Germanou str. +30 210 3229027
Madame Phu Man Chu
An ethnic touch to the square with Vietnamese flavours and aromas; lotus flower lamps hanging from ecclesiastical bronze bases, colourful lanterns, a paper dragon overhead, an open kitchen in front of the high counter and all these with the appropriate soundtrack. Konstantinos Zouganelis, known from –the now historic- “Bar Guru Bar”, is the man behind this small, corner restaurant with its many references to the Vietnamese culture. Coming from Vietnam, the chef tries to give each dish the authentic taste of his country’s folk cuisine. Ask for the redolent Pho soup, with beef or prawns, the caramelized pork with pineapple (very tasty), the Vietnamese kebab, the summer rolls and the Bún Chả – marinated grilled patties & slices of pork served with cold rice noodles and vegetables.
4, Praxitelous & Skouleniou str. +30 210 3231366
2 Goulies kai 2 Boukies (2 sips and two bites)
On the other side of the square is, perhaps, the best café in Athens. Tania and Nikos have been serving specialty coffee for six years and have brewed some very interesting cups of espresso and cappuccino so far. The main area of the café may be closed due to the pandemic, but you can enjoy your coffee at the tables in the adjacent arcade.
The shop offers different coffee varieties from Brazil, Indonesia, Guatemala, Colombia etc. If you run into Tania ask her to make you a nice cool flat white or a freddo cappuccino. As a true Cretan, Nikos will offer you raki, along with one of the sandwiches he prepares, and will make you feel like you are at a friend’s house. I should mention that many of the goodies you will find here come from Takis’ bakery in Makrigianni. Since recently, here you can also find burgers from Po’ Boy’s in Psirri.
8, Dragatsaniou str. +30 210 3473444
Horostasio
This is one of the oldest bars in the area, which has been here long before the square became famous. Its terrace is associated with the Athenian summer and, as a result, Horostratio has managed to establish itself as a landmark in the city’s nightlife. With the backdrop of the illuminated Lycabettus, Horostasio offers the ultimate urban view, in a relaxed, pleasant environment accompanied by the right tunes. Here you won’t find fancy cocktails and other such things, but just drinks. But once you come up for a beer, you’ll forget you’re still in town. One thing is for sure, you’ll be coming back.
2, Skouleniou str. +30 210 3314330
