If you find yourself in Rethymno, Crete and ask a local which is the restaurant you must visit to experience the greatness of Cretan cuisine, one thing is certain; among the first answers you will hear – if not the first – will be the restaurant “Alekos”. Indeed, a picturesque courtyard in Armeni village is waiting to justify your gustatory expectations.
A key feature that is good to keep in mind before visiting “Alekos” is that the latter has abolished the concept of ordering. There is no menu; you just come, sit down and in a few minutes the daily specials parade in front of you–a series of Cretan delicacies that will not leave you unmoved. How was this slightly daring idea born?
The owner, Mr Sifis Fragiadakis, informs us: “The original idea was triggered by the element of surprise and joy that we have all experienced when visiting a house as guests and are treated by the hostess. No one calls in advance to ask what they have prepared for dinner. We simply go and take a seat at the table set by the hostess with whatever she has prepared. In a magical way we always eat a lot and have a good time.This is the concept that we have adopted. Every day we change our menu, just like a good host always thinks about what is best to cook each day”.
The lavish meal we had included delicious dishes in large portions, such as seasonal salad with rusks, Armenian cucumber, organic tomato, balsamic vinegar, feta cheese and rocket, scrambled eggs with zucchini and tomato, hohlious bourbouristous (it is unlikely that you will find yourself in Crete and not try Cretan snails), green beans, rabbit stew in wine and rosemary, braised veal and pork burgers with homemade fries.The definition of excitement, for many reasons: firstly, we have the incomparable fresh, seasonal and home-grown ingredients; then, the emphasis on the most typical Cretan specialties and, finally, the execution of the recipes with absolute simplicity.The dishes served will give you the feeling that they come from your own kitchen or the kitchen of a relative or close friend.
Mrs Evangela is behind the fact that all the dishes look and taste as if they were prepared by your grandmother, as she cooks everything. Α Cretan woman, 80 years old now, full of wisdom and boundless energy. Fragiadakis recalls, “The most difficult stage, when I was setting up the restaurant, was finding a local cook.It was a difficult task to find someone whose cooking would convey a sense of hominess, but it was going to become the most magical feature of the restaurant and for me, the most endearing. When I found Mrs Evangela and told her what I wanted to do, she thought I was joking. But with persistence and patience, I managed to convince her and it is a gift for me and the customers that such a woman is cooking for them right now.”
For the record, the history of the restaurant “Alekos” – founded in 1932 by Fragiadakis’ grandfather, Manolis – is divided into three periods.In 1964, Fragiadakis’ father, Alekos, took over until 1993. During these first two periods, it operated as a café and grocery store rather than a restaurant.Since 1993, when Sifis took over, the place started to diversify and evolve into the favourite haunt it is today, with its reputation preceding its name.As he summarizes: “I never wanted to create a fancy restaurant; I wanted a place that perfectly highlights the beloved Cretan cuisine at its best.Here our aim is for our food to cheer you up. I always like to think that I have invited every guest to my place, not my restaurant”.
It is said that we all believe that the most delicious food is the one prepared by our mothers and grandmothers.Call it nostalgia, call it an idealized memory, call it an undeniable event, the result in the end is common.After all, flavours and aromas are not only of cerebral origin, but also strongly emotional. This homey feeling is clearly the core of the restaurant and is what makes it stand out.An approach that any good host would find suitable.
