Far too many of the eateries in Thiseio rely on a stellar view of ancient Athens to paper over the cracks in their culinary offerings, and, indeed, plenty of measly souvlaki and insipid rosé has accompanied a scene of the Acropolis glowing in the dying light. The tourist traps know that travellers are only in town for a few days and offer the bare minimum in terms of service and quality dishes.

18

Look hard, though, and there are shining beacons of gastronomy that draw the discerning diner through the stormy seas of mediocrity. From rooftop tables to backstreet gardens, these establishments take pride in what they serve, are confident in their dishes, and love sharing their cuisine and their city with visitors.

Kuzina

One of Athens’ most iconic restaurants lies at the end of Adrianou Street near to the Temple of Hephaestus. A handsome neo-classical mansion has been beautifully restored with an airy main room, an open kitchen, a sleek mezzanine, and a vast oak-panelled bar that houses a large wine collection. The outdoor tables next to the busy walkway are ideal for people-watching as they take their promenade around Thiseio.

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Photo: Kuzina
Photo: Kuzina

However, it is on the rooftop tarazza where the magical location comes alive; the views across the ancient Agora, up to the Acropolis and the sparkling marble of the Parthenon are some of the best in the city. Open from April to October, it is the serene backdrop for the inventive creations of one of Greece’s most well-known chefs, Aris Tsanaklidis. A mainstay of the Michelin guide, Kuzina is rooted in Greek tradition but with contemporary accents that reflect the influences the chef picked up as he worked in some of the world’s most innovative restaurants. There is an a la carte choice and a very reasonable lunch tariff but perhaps the best way to sample the sublime cooking is to explore the seasonal flavours of the degustation menu, complemented with paired wines from the extensive Greek wine card, drinking in the sublime skyline from that magnificent roof terrace.

Address: Kuzina Adrianou 9, Thiseio, 10555 (Tel.:21032 40133), www.kuzina.gr

To Steki tou Ilia

An Athens institution, this is where locals and in-the-know sightseers come to satisfy their cravings for traditional dishes. For Sunday Lunch Greek-Style arrive early as the queues snake down the street from midday. A short walk from Thiseio Metro station, your nose will draw you down charming Thessalonikis Street with the sweet smell of roasting meats; Paidakia, grilled lamb chops are the name of the game here, sold by the kilogram. Add in a market fresh tomato salad, Tzatziki as rich as clotted cream, and chips finger-burning hot straight from the frier. The house wine is perfectly serviceable and served in small metal carafes from the barrel. In winter, indoors is the place to be with a fireplace to ward off the cold air, but from spring onwards the garden opposite, next to a small church, is the romantic option with a pretty vine covered terrace. Very popular at the weekend, there is a sister resident a couple of hundred metres down the road to soak up the overspill.

Address: To Steki tou Ilia Thessalonikis 7, Thiseio, 11851 (Tel.:21034 22407) Eptahalkou 5, Thiseio (Tel.: 21034 58052), facebook.com

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Photo: Abibayio/Facebook
Photo: Abibayio/Facebook

Abibayio

Newly renovated with a homely interior and a courtyard reminiscent of an island taverna, Abibayio sits on Iraklidon street, a pretty pedestrianised alley in the shadow of the Acropolis. Handy for combining a trip to the excellent Herakleidon Museum opposite, the restaurant is worth seeking out alone, though, for its creative take on classic Greek dishes. A Neo-taverna it combines the hospitality of old-school taverns with a modern respect for ingredients. A journey through Greece, the tastes honour the Greek culinary tradition with organic meats and vegetables from renowned farms, and fish and seafood from small dayboats. The reliance on small producers is reflected in the daily specials menu where whatever is in season is beautifully combined with contemporary techniques to bring out the best in the main elements. Moussaka is elevated by being served Spanish-style as a croquette, while the humble Gyros is offered as a corn Taco with a feta cream and avocado Tzatziki. Service is charming and friendly and the wine list with many bottles available by the glass is a perfect way to explore rare and underappreciated Greek varieties. A hidden gem, Abibayio is worth seeking out.

Address: Abibayio Iraklidon 3, Thiseio, 11851 (Tel.: 21034 26794), www.abibayio.gr

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Photo: To Kafeneio tou Rizou/Facebook
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Photo: To Kafeneio tou Rizou/Facebook
Photo: To Kafeneio tou Rizou/Facebook

To Kafeneio tou Rizou

An urban café in the 1930’s thrived under the guidance of George Rizos, a place where men would meet and play backgammon while the Acropolis loomed overhead, their cigarette smoke staining the ornate plaster ceiling. Skip forward some decades to the modern era and Michalis Rizos, unrelated owner of the much-loved Black Duck on Klathmonos Square, took over the lease of the now abandoned building on Akamantos Street . Unaware of its previous history and title, research confirmed its former owner and it was decided to recreate the identity and name of its previous iteration. Works of art from iconic Greek artists adorn the walls, marble tables remind of its former life and the high-ceilinged room has been restored to its former glory with the old sign bearing the Rizos moniker taking pride of place once again on the lovingly-renovated building.

Open from the morning for coffee and breakfast, the café comes alive at dusk as the breeze brushes through the mulberry trees and the cobbles glow with the reflected yellow light of the Parthenon. Rather than the centre of a busy, modern metropolis, the atmosphere reminds of an island chora, a very Greek scene as old as the streets themselves. The menu, though, is more modern with influences from global gastronomy; terrific Tabbouleh is spruced up with seven spices, squid is spiked with lime and chili, and unforgettable meatballs are served with a black garlic mayonnaise. Served as small plates alongside Greek beers, wines, and spirits, the scene is at once nostalgic and contemporary, half- urban yet half-rural, a place that embraces the present day with a wistful eye on the past.

Address: To Kafeniou tou Rizou Akamantos 2, Thiseio, 11851 (Tel.: 21034 57825), facebook.com

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Photo: Retro-Gastro

Retro-Gastro

Also known as the Funky Taverna, don’t let the name put you off. A two storey neoclassical building from 1872 has been elegantly repurposed on a corner of Iraklidon Street, next to the Michelin-starred Merceri, and the cooking at this recent arrival more than matches its lauded neighbour. The lovechild of Andreas and Vana, Retro-Gastro unites the flavours of Greece with local vineyards in a marriage of tastes and aromas. Warm and unpretentious, the palette of culinary offerings is at once familiar but given a modern update. The cellar has over 100 exclusively Greek labels with many rare and obscure bottlings, and the knowledgeable staff are at hand to suggest interesting pairings and combinations. A cool soundtrack accompanies your meal and there are sometimes live jazz performances and organised tastings where small producers get to explain their wines. Barely a year old and still finding its feet, this cosy space with hip artwork and mid-century furniture is a splendid addition to a street blessed with fine alternatives, and it has a fine, funky future ahead of it.

Address: Resto-Gastro The Funky Taverna of Athens Iraklidon 19 & Aktaiou, Thiseio, 11851 (Tel.:21034 27808), www.retrogastro.com

Read also:

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Athens: Petralona’s Traditional and Modern Tavernas

5 Of The Best New Tastes in Petralona, Athens