Exarchia (with an extra letter – ‘Exarcheia’- in Greek), Athens’ legendarily ‘anarchic’ neighborhood known for its spirited counterculture, is also a culinary playground where diverse flavors and buzzy creative settings thrive. Each venue reflects the district’s unique energy and culinary evolution from traditional tavernas celebrating Greece’s gastronomic heritage to trendy wine bars and inventive fusion spots.

28

Whether you are craving Mediterranean classics, vegan delicacies, or globally inspired plates, there’s something for every palate, seasoned with an edgy charm that only this neighborhood could deliver. Join us as we explore the best places to eat here now.

For Modern Cuisine

Pharaoh

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Pharaoh’s defiant modern Greekness and back-to-roots approach embrace the national tradition with open arms. It blazes out with a dedication to traditional Greek cuisine, presented with a modern narrative that respects the integrity of its ingredients. It’s a must-visit for those seeking a heartwarming taste of Greece combined with cool minimalism, quirky decor, and excellent DJ sets with vinyl records. The essence of Pharaoh’s menu is an homage to Cretan “cucina povera”. This is a philosophy of using minimal, high-quality ingredients to create dishes that are simple yet profoundly flavorful. Chef Papoutsakis certainly draws inspiration from his Cretan roots. He offers a menu that pairs the island’s culinary traditions with his heartful and sophisticated touch. The wine list focuses on minimal intervention wines, sourced from organic or biodynamic grapes, to complement the meal. Ingredients are sourced directly from small Greek producers, ensuring freshness and quality in every dish.

Solomou 54, Exarcheia

Website

Cafe Boheme Barbayiannis

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Cafe Boheme Barbagiannis

This restaurant’s Mediterranean-inspired menu is a treat for the senses, made using premium Greek ingredients and served in a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. Start with juicy beef patties paired with truffle-infused mashed potatoes or enjoy the grilled seabass with fresh greens. The warm salad with goat cheese and glazed figs, alongside comforting dishes like baked eggplant with feta and grilled salmon, adds variety to the offerings. The pizzas are a standout, especially the truffle oil pizza with its crisp crust and rich flavor. Other favorites include the goat cheese and arugula pizza, the Mediterranean-style, and the classic Margherita with a hint of mint. Even kids have their favorites here, like the crispy potato ‘rocks’, making it an ideal spot for families and food lovers alike.

Emmanouil Benaki 94

Website

Ama Lachei

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Situated below Strefi Hill, this beloved eatery in a former nursery school exudes an unpretentious charm reminiscent of old Athens, surrounded by greenery. The lively garden space draws locals and visitors alike, offering a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. The menu is focused on shareable meze plates with generous portions, highlighting traditional flavors with modern touches. Expect an array of Greek cheeses, crisp salads, and regional delicacies, along with fresh seafood, quality meats, and memorable dishes like Karpathos-style macaroni and ouzo-spiced meatballs. Service is attentive, knowledgeable, and friendly.

Methonis 66

Website

For Vegan Eats

Magic Kitchen

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This vibrant vegan food bar in Exarcheia serves as a cultural crossroads, showcasing a menu inspired by Kurdish, Palestinian, Syrian, and Greek influences. Founded in 2021 by Sanem and Zelal, it offers affordable, health-focused options with highlights like Turkish gozleme, filled crepes with greens, mushrooms, and spices, as well as red lentil soup, vegan Smyrna meatballs, and the traditional ekmek dessert. Freshly made drinks, including zingy lemonade, kefir, and a rich, unique tahini hot chocolate, round out the warm, community-centered experience.

Themistokleous 43-45

Website

Vicky’s

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The chef brings his mother’s cherished recipes and a wealth of experience from years in the restaurant business in Lebanon to his newly launched vegan shop, Vicky’s. Named after his beloved dog, a gift from a homeless man in Lebanon, Vicky’s offers a menu centered around fresh, handmade pita, baked in a traditional saj oven, infusing the air with inviting Mediterranean aromas. The soy mince vegan lahmacun has quickly become a bestseller, and a summer pita with watermelon and feta is set to debut soon, adding a cool, refreshing twist to the menu’s bold, spiced flavors.

Arachovis 29

Website

Cookoomela Grill

Cookoomela stands out as a pioneer in transforming the traditional Greek souvlaki by offering a completely vegan version – possibly the first worldwide – that even non-vegans consider among the best. Shifting from souvlaki’s meat-based roots, Cookoomela, named after a local term for a type of mushroom, fills its wraps with inventive options like mushroom “gyros” and homemade sauces, such as fresh herb sauce and organic soy yogurt. Their commitment to sustainability shines through in the use of biodegradable packaging, underscoring an environmentally conscious approach.

Themistokleous 43-45

Website

For Street Food

Hayat

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Located in Exarchia, Hayat offers a true taste of Kurdish cuisine in a relaxed, inviting setting. The open kitchen adds an engaging element, allowing diners to watch as each dish comes together, from thin, crispy lahmajoun to toasted buns. Highlights include the robust eggplant salad with garlic, savory mercimek kofte, and spicy Adana kebabs. The menu’s centerpiece is the handmade, boat-shaped peinirli, topped with options like fragrant kebabs or a perfectly cooked egg, while lighter bites like the pastourmas cake complete the experience. Hayat’s authentic flavors and warm ambiance make it a local favorite for Eastern specialties.

Ippokratous 78, Exarchia

Website

Lacantina

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Lacantina, a quaint eatery established in 2016 in Exarcheia, is inspired by the owner’s travels in Asia and Europe. A canteen that doubles as a compact restaurant, it speciallizes in ethnic street food, and takes one on a culinary journey from Lebanon to India. Highlights include uniquely prepared falafel with fava beans, as made in Egypt, and unconventional salads like that with mung beans with goat cheese and balsamic dressing. The bestseller, the Chicken Curry Wrap, is a must-try, with chicken cooked in coconut milk with mushrooms and peppers. Also, the daily selection of seven velvety soups, ranging from classic celery root to chestnut soup with cognac, offer feel-good warmth on a cold day.

Zodochou Pigis 24 & Koleti

Website

Kalinka Malinka

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In Exarcheia, this eatery brings a taste of Russian culinary tradition with its expertly crafted piroski, drawing in locals and visitors alike. Known for a fluffy, melt-in-your-mouth texture, the piroski selection here suits every craving. The menu includes crispy, fried versions stuffed with savory fillings like meat, potato, or mushrooms, as well as lighter, baked options for a softer bite. During the summer, a popular choice is the diet-friendly wholemeal piroski filled with mizithra cheese, offering a wholesome twist on the classic. For those with a sweet tooth, the berry-filled piroski delivers a burst of natural sweetness, complemented perfectly by refreshing granitas that make an ideal pairing for warm days.

Stadiou 27 & Solonos 81

Website

For Island cuisine

Ouzeri I Lesvos

Since 1970, I Lesvos on Emmanouil Benaki Street has drawn a diverse crowd to its charming setting, where an old piano, vintage jukebox, and mosaic-tiled floor set the scene for an exceptional meze experience. This ouzeri celebrates the traditional flavors of the Aegean with a focus on fresh fish and seafood, light golden frying, and homemade marinades that highlight the best of local ingredients. Guests are treated to a daily selection of freshly baked bread and flavorful dips, along with a wide array of Mytilene ouzo, offering a true taste of Lesvos. With its warm, authentic atmosphere, I Lesvos remains a staple for anyone seeking genuine Greek meze. Due to its popularity, reserving a table in advance is highly recommended.

Emmanouil Benaki 38

Website

O Peinaleon

This historic Exarchia tavern has been welcoming diners since 1975 in a beautifully restored neoclassical building on Mavromichali Street. The ambiance is nostalgic, with 1919-era mirrors, murals, antiques, and vintage photos adorning the walls. The menu, crafted by a chef known for his skill with traditional flavors, centers on Chian dishes, featuring roasted mastelo cheese from Chios, a smoky eggplant dip, mastic-flavored pork, and delicate croquettes of wild greens and herbs. A standout comfort dish is the pork served with freshly fried, hand-cut potatoes. More than a dining spot, this tavern is a gathering place for local artists and students, with rebetika music adding to its lively, communal spirit.

Mavromichali 152

Website

Rakoumel

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Amazing Island Cuisine in Athens / Rakoumel

Heading down Emmanouil Benaki, you’ll discover the Cretan taverna Rakoumel. They serve authentic, utterly delicious, and generously portioned dishes that transport you to Crete. Fennel pie with fresh herbs, small mizithra cheese pies, zucchini flowers stuffed with rice, potatoes with staka butter, omelet with sygklino, xigalo cheese from Siteia, pork fry-up with honey, skioufichta pasta with sausage, eggplant and ‘stakovoutyro’, among other equally tantalizing options. All of these pair excellently with the organic rakomelo (raki, cooked with honey and spices) from Toplou Monastery and Rethymnian beer.

Emmanouil Benaki 71

Website

For Top Sandwiches

The Black Salami Microbakery

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After three years of experimenting with flours and techniques, this bakery developed a unique, naturally leavened dough that’s flavorful, easily digestible, and free from raising agents. Their flour—semi-milled, three-grain, and vitamin-rich—comes from Italy’s Bongiovanni family mill, while the oil, low in acidity, is sourced from Mani, Greece. Black Salami Microbakery offers a variety of artisanal breads, focaccia, and standout sandwiches, like the BLT with smoked pancetta from Serres and pulled pork with gravy, goat cheese, and rocket.

Zoodohou Pigis 71

Website