Wine getaways are never out of season. There is magic in all four seasons of the year and Northern Greece has it all; from the large winemaking units that laid the foundation for the Greek wine map to brand new boutique wineries.
There are more than thirty wineries, vineyards in enchanting locations, with caves and ageing cellars, and above all with hospitable vintners, waiting to guide you and introduce you to their world.
Novices or connoisseurs, there is always something for everyone to discover on every visit; from the flavours and aromas of a wine, to the winemaking process and the beauty of the landscape. Personally, I always experience my visits to wineries as an antidote to depression. Not because of the alcohol, after all I drink very little. But because each time I get to meet a few more of these wine people, I get to see with my own eyes the “dream team” of Greek entrepreneurship. I meet people who have the expertise, are bold and apply innovative practices, who produce, who export, who care, who create in the context of sustainable development, who take care of the ecosystem in which they operate, who do business as they should.
Get to meet them and discover new places through wine.
Kir-Yianni Estate
Any exploration related to wine in Macedonia should commence at Kir-Yianni Estate. If we were talking about music, Yiannis Boutaris would be the ultimate rock star –a pioneer with boundless energy who paved the way, bravely and masterfully balancing his deep love and knowledge of wine with a humane but effective pursuit of entrepreneurship.
The man who contributed more than anyone else to the “wine spring” that we are experiencing today throughout the country has found worthy successors in his two sons, Stelios and Michalis, who are now making their own viticultural wonders.
The Kir-Yianni Estate in Yianakohori, just outside Naoussa and just 100 km from Thessaloniki, is a hymn of praise to the vineyard and its people. The gentle slopes of Mount Vermio, overgrown with native and international varieties, are the ideal setting to be introduced, first of all, to the magic of Xinomavro (dark-skinned grape variety), to taste the rare Assyrtiko (bright, white-yellow wine with rich varietal character) vinified in the vineyards of the North, to taste sparkling wines and to witness family stories being transformed, with knowledge and taste, into bittersweet vermouths.
If you want to get in the mood before the visit, read the amazing autobiographical book by Yiannis Boutaris, “Sixty years of harvest” (Original tittle in Greek: “εξήντα χρόνια τρύγος”), published this year by Patakis Publishers.
Please note that the estate and the winery’s premises are accessible to people with disabilities. Contact Elpida Palamida (+30 23320 51100), make an appointment. Visit kiryianni.gr to get a first taste.
Alpha Estate
Leaving Naoussa, we head towards Amyndeo, towards a vineyard with stunning views, where a unique microclimate is created by the lakes of Petron and Vegoritis; a northern universe, with enchanting mists and humidity breathing life into 1,800 acres of vineyards.
One of the greatest chapters in Western Macedonia’s wine history, the brainchild of two people –the experienced viticulturist Makis Mavridis and the chemist-winemaker Angelos Iatridis- has been in operation for 25 years with classic vinifications and subversive blends. Of course, the protagonist here too is Xinomavro, either on its own or in combinations with other Greek or foreign varieties.
Unfiltered Tannat (grape for red wine) is a genuine taste of the North. The rosé Xinomavro further underlines the inexhaustible potential of this variety, while the sweet white wine, a blend of Gewürztraminer and Malagouzia, fills us northerners with makes pride. Visit alpha-estate.com and contact Evangelia Meditskou (+30 23860 20111) to arrange your visit.
Local Flavours and products
Roasted red peppers, red pepper spread, briny pickles, cabbage cooked with fruit, meat and fish are just some of the flavours of the north that reflect the geography of the region.
In the heart of Naoussa, Soura, Soupa & cafe, aside from its surreal name, also serves delicious soups; tripe soup, a traditional dish and also a cure for hangovers, as well as chicken soup and stew, a true balm for cold winter days. Real food served here since 1980.
Apart from the famous –Michelin starred- Spondi restaurant in Pagrati, Athens, there is also the delicious Spondi restaurant of Angelos and Panagiota in Naoussa. We had pork braised with Xinomavro wine, tenderloin with quinces, cabbage and of course gavopsara (aubergines cooked in salt water and mustard, cut into slices and fried) –the classic mezze of Naoussa.
Located in the village Xino Nero, Kontosoros restaurant is among the best ones in the region, boasting perhaps the greatest wine cellar filled with local wines and serving local dishes with a twist in a rather urban atmosphere.
Where to stay
First of all, if you are based in Thessaloniki, you can easily visit the two wineries in a one-day trip. If you want to stay overnight in the area and are in the mood to wake up in a forest teeming with warbling birds, Sfendamos wood village is an excellent choice. Nestled in a forest of maple, beech and fir trees, Sfendamos wood village consists of a small complex of 7 wooden houses, hidden in the slopes of Mount Vermio, in the village of Koutsoufliani and a stone’s throw from the 3-5 Pigadia ski resort. As locals, the owners know the area like the back of their hand and are willing to share their knowledge with visitors. sfendamos.gr/
If you want to stay in the heart of Edessa, in the old quarter with the Macedonian mansions, Varosi – 4 seasons is an excellent choice. An old stone mansion with 10 beautiful rooms, fluffy mattresses and down comforters will be waiting for you after the wine tasting to take you on a journey back in time and help you relax. Choose a room with a view of the Edessa plain. Don’t be put off by their website, they might not be tech savvy, but they are definitely hospitality savvy. www.varosi4seasons.gr
What else to see in the area
A visit to the Macedonian Tombs of Vergina is a must. The innovative museological treatment of an otherwise shocking material creates an unforgettable experience. An entire underground museum with all the gold of the Macedonian kings, presented with wisdom.
Veroia, Naoussa and Edessa are three beautiful cities worth a visit. The two lakes near Amyndeon, Vegoritis and Petron, and the quaint little taverns on the shore of Agios Panteleimonas are a dreamy autumnal setting ideal for hiking and cycling.
Discover the region through wine.
