Mountainous and barren, the island of Amorgos is home to thousands of sheep and goats grazing freely on the rocks in the mountains or by the sea. Meat is at the core of the island’s cuisine with typical dishes such as “Patatato” (goat or lamb with spiced potatoes and red sauce), “Aranista” (stuffed goat with rice soup), and “Xidato” (tripe soup seasoned with vinegar). The long tradition of livestock farming provides plenty of milk and many special goat and sheep cheeses, mainly home-produced: hard and salty Melipasto, Graviera, Myzithra, Xinomyzithra, and smaller quantities of Kopanisti.
The fava of Amorgos comes from Katsouni, a variety of pea like the fava of Schinoussa, and differs from the Lathouri, which is the fava of Santorini. It is served as “Fava Pantremeni”, fava boiled with onion, capers, oil, and lemon, and also as “Favokeftedes”, fritters made by mixing boiled fava with fennel and chopped onion.
The island’s green pies are traditionally made with wild chards and herbs. The abundance of these aromatic herbs creates ideal conditions for the development of beekeeping. Thyme honey is the main product, but flower honey is also produced from bees which are believed to be a native island variety. The local olive groves, mainly around Aegiali, planted with the varieties “Manaki”, Koroneiki” and “Chontrolia”, produce good quantities of extra virgin olive oil.
The island also has small fleet of fishing boats that contribute to the local gastronomic character. Sun-dried blotched Picarels are an island speciality; the fish are first salted and then dried in the sun, and served as a snack for ouzo. In the lowlands, quantities of wheat and barley were traditionally grown, and several families still use wheat rye to make their own black bread and “Pavlus”, a type of rusk.
Traditional sweets include the “Xerotigana”, made with a thin dough shaped as a rose and covered in honey and sesame seeds, and the Sesame Pasteli (honey and sesame bar) that differs from other Cycladic creations with the addition of a dusting of Cumin. As for drinks, “Roasted Raki”, a kind of liqueur based on Raki and honey and flavoured with herbs and spices, is famous. Even before it became known throughout the country, it was a concoction drunk hot to relieve colds and coughs. Similarly, women drank it on visits and at festivals to avoid the strong Raki that men drank. Today it is produced at a winery-distillery on the island under the name “Rakomelo” and it is served throughout Greece and exported to foreign countries.
Where to eat
Transistoraki: A beautifully decorated room in the busiest alley in Chora stumbles out onto the street. Delicious Greek delicacies and carefully selected ingredients are cooked with creativity. (Chora, Amorgos, tel.: 0030 698 882 0049 https://www.facebook.com/Τρανζιστοράκι-1435801773413979/)
Yorgalinis: Family tavern within a beautiful garden, it is known for its grilled meat and its generous portions. The meat is all sourced from their own farm. (Vroutsi, Amorgos, tel.: 0030 2285 074290 (https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100057152932003)
Youkali: Restaurant with Mediterranean cuisine and seafood, meat, and vegetarian options. Its dishes include orzo with beetroot, roasted goat, linguini with fresh mussels, and shrimp pasta. (Xilokeratidi, Katapola, Amorgos, tel.: 0030 2285 071838, https://www.facebook.com/youkaliamorgos/)
To Limani tis Kira Katinas: One of Amorgos‘ oldest taverns serving fresh fish and traditional Amorgian dishes such as Patatato and Octopus pie is located on a quiet alleyway. The celebrated Lobster pasta is a must try. (Amorgos, Aegiali, tel.: 2285 073269 https://www.facebook.com/people/To-Limani-Tis-Kyra-Katinas/100040158439342/ )
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