Rafina, Zouberi, Nea Makri, Marathonas; all great destinations –just a breath away from Athens- ideal for a nice and peaceful weekend getaway or a one-day excursion. Below you will find eight dining options where you can enjoy fresh fish, delicious grilled meat, traditional Cretan and Modern Greek cuisine.
Argentina
Famous among meat lovers for many years now, this restaurant introduced us to the way Argentines enjoy roast meat. Mr Nikos, the first master, learnt the art of cooking a la parilla in Argentina and then found a nice place far from Athens, in a beautiful rural area to set up his business. His sons, who have now taken over the reins, are his worthy successors. The truth is that to get there you have to make a short trip to Lake Marathon, but it’s definitely worth it. As some meats can take from 40 minutes to an hour to cook, it is advisable to call prior to your visit.
P.S: Argentina will remain closed until September 3rd.
*3, Bitakou Str., Kalentzion, Marathon, +30 22940 66476
Winter-Summer (Himona-Kalokairi)
Several times I’ve been hosted in this unique restaurant featuring white tables set in a beautiful garden –lush bougainvillea, fragrant roses, palms and lemon trees. Although located in Zouberi, on the coastal road, the restaurant does not offer a sea view. However, when the north winds blow –which is not uncommon- one can hear the sound of the waves. Chef Nicki Parliarou-Chrysanthidou prepares delicious dishes, inspired by traditional Greek gastronomy and the cuisine of Constantinople, such as dolmadakia (stuffed grape leaves), sardines with thyme, wine and sun-dried tomatoes, fava (yellow split pea puree) and tirokafteri (spicy cheese dip). These are just a few of the restaurant’s must-try dishes. Remember to save some space for the elaborate desserts prepared by her son, Fotis Chrysanthidis.
*93, Poseidonos Avenue, Zouberi, +30 22940 99704
Xipolitos
Famous and beloved, as many distinguished people of the cultural and political scene have visited the tavern over the years, Xipolitos has made history in the area. It took its name from the nickname of the owner – a fisherman by profession – who walked around without shoes. Located right on the beach, Xipolitos features quaint blue tables scattered on the rocks, laid with folk tablecloths. On the menu you will find fresh fish and seafood. On weekdays things are generally quiet but on weekends it’s hard to find a table, so before you go, make a reservation just in case.
*25th March Str., Agios Nikolas, +30 22940 28342
Trata
Here, time seems to have frozen in 1981, the year the fish tavern first opened. The fish, which in the past was carefully picked by the owner –Klearhos Bellos- on a daily basis, is as fresh as it gets. Several famous people have sat at its tables over the years. Now the business has been passed on to his son, Pericles, however, Trata still remains an excellent fish tavern that stands the test of time, a timeless value.
*30, Poseidonos Avenue, Nea Makri, +30 22940 94794
Rodinos
Since its opening in 2015, Rodinos has become one of my favourite restaurants; a place where one can enjoy traditional Cretan cuisine and warm hospitality. Vangelis, the owner, hailing from the village of Atsipopoulo in Rethymon, will make you feel like home. His wife, Zoe, runs the kitchen and cooks with great skill. Try the popular gamopilafo (traditional Cretan wedding rice), the handmade dolmadakia, the devilishly delicious eggs with staka (traditional Cretan butter rich in both fat and flavour) and tsigariasto (lamp slowly cooked in olive oil and wine).
*77, Poseidonos Avenue, Zouberi, +30 22949 40 916
Fam. Tavern Folia – Chrysina
An old chophouse, untouched by time, located on a terrace in Grammatiko, overlooking the Marathon plain. As soon as you sit, a strong smell of sizzling meat hits your nostrils, whetting your appetite. Tasos, the owner, grills non-stop locally sourced meat, while Mrs. Dimitra prepares all the side dishes, as well as the desserts. You should definitely try her cheese pies.
*26, Agiou Georgiou Str., Grammatiko, +30 22940 61312
Socrates
Yet another picturesque taverna-grill in Kato Souli is also run as a family business. Mr. Socrates, an expert at the grill, has passed on his skills, including a devotion to hospitality, to his son Dimitris, now at the enterprise’s helm. The spot is renowned for its grilled ewe served simply, on baking paper, pork shanks slow-barbecued on embers, as well as lamb. The thick spaghetti with goat in a tomato-based sauce is my favourite dish. I highly recommend it.
242 Souliou Ave, Kato Souli, tel. +30 2294063406
Seirines
Located in the port of Rafina, Seirines tavern stands as a potential reason for travellers to miss the ferry to the Cyclades. Old but quaint, Seirines tavern has maintained its charm over time, while its menu has remained the same for years. Do not miss the fava served with herring and pickled cucumber, and the fish-ball platter (an assortment of fish cakes).
*3, Papandreou Andrea coast, Rafina, +30 22940 23556
Extra tips: While in the area, visit Kasimis Bakery in Nea Makri (11, Dionysiou Avenue) to try their sourdough bread. Ask them to slice it so it will keep longer in the fridge. On the way to Dionysus, also stop at Daphne Dairy for delicious dairy products of all kinds.