Six souvlaki places in the Syntagma area – some old, backed by years of tradition, others more modern, all definitely special- serve delicious, irresistible souvlaki.
Hoocut
A modern souvlaki spot, Hoocut was launched by the team behind the Cookoovaya restaurant – Periklis Koskinas, Kleomenis Zournatzis and two siblings, Spyros and Vaggelis Liakos. This venture’s premises, spacious and high-ceilinged, incorporates four shop sections: a bakery, fruit and vegetable store, butcher shop, and grill. A big marble bar at the centre serves as the workbench where all the souvlaki ingredients are gathered for the dishes to be prepared. Four meat categories – pork, beef, chicken and ewe – are served in three ways: as a pita wrap; over a soft pita bread base; or as a portion, over fried chips. The wrapped souvlaki version is slightly smaller than the customary size, so consider ordering two from the start. On the contrary, the on-plate portions are bigger, requiring restraint when ordering.
Hoocut, 9 Agias Irinis Square, tel. 2103240026
Kostas
Mr. Kostas set out as one of the city’s street-roving souvlaki vendors – they roamed the streets with their carts, grilling and selling souvlaki on the spot – until 1950, when he decided to open his own shop, on Adrianou St, in central Athens’ Plaka district. The founder’s grandson eventually took over at the helm in 2003, before deciding, several years later, to relocate the business to a new address, on Pentelis St, a small side-street off Mitropoleos St. He starts charcoal-grilling and serving his kalamakia (skewered meat pieces) and bifteki (seasoned beef patties) early in the day. These meat fillers are put onto oil-free pita bread along with goat’s milk yoghurt, tomato, onion and spicy pepper, then skillfully rolled into a read-to-eat wrap. Fried chips have been spared from the menu. Ordering a second souvlaki is advised as this spot’s simple yet delicious offerings will pleasantly surprise. Keep in mind, Kostas closes early, serving until 3.30 pm.
Kostas, 5 Pentelis, Syntagma, tel. 2103228502
Lefteris “o Politis”
One of the city centre’s best-known souvlaki spots has, since its emergence, always been based on the same street, Satovriandou St, just off Omonia square. It was established by the current owner’s grandfather, Stavros, in 1950, continued by the founder’s son, Lefteris – hence the business name – and is now run by the latter’s son, Tasos. The spot’s neglection of paper napkins, until recently, was a peculiar trademark! Its menu offers two selections in all, pita bread with bifteki or heiropiito (seasoned soutzouki sausage). The bifteki here is made with coarsely-cut beef mince. No seasoning is added to the mix, just salt, before the bifteki patty is prepared on a steel flat-top griddle. On the contrary, the soutzouki sausage, offering a rich cumin scent, is full-on spicy. The bifteki and soutzouki selections are both served in pita bread with tomato, onion, parsley and paprika. Simple yet delicious. Customers usually order either in twos or threes as the souvlaki here goes down easily. The venture will soon open a second shop, on pedestrianised Romvis St, at number 18, based on the same principles – with paper napkins!
Lefteris “o Politis”, 20 Satovriandou, Omonia, tel. 2105225676
Kostas
Closely associated with Agias Irinis square as it has been based at this location since 1948, Kostas, it should be pointed out, is not linked to the aforementioned venture of the same name in Syntagma. The business was forced to change address two years ago, moving to an adjacent side street off Agias Irinis square due to damages at the building hosting its previous home. Despite the relocation, Kostas has stayed true to its pork kalamaki and bifteki souvlaki offerings, unchanged. The accompanying ingredients – tomato and onions – are cut on the spot, slowly and calmly, over the pita bread with meat. A red sauce prepared in three versions (spicy, mild and sweet), offering extra intensity and flavour, is the unique feature here.
Kostas, 2 Agias Irinis square, Athens, tel. 2103232971
Εn Athinais Alexandra
The odd place out in the ethnic neighborhood making up Apollonos St, Alexandra En Athinais has succeeded a renowned and historic souvlaki shop, Tou Hasapi to Souvlaki, which was run by an elderly gentleman, Giorgos, whose grandchildren Aggelos and Kyriaki, took over the business. They fully revamped the premises and renamed the business but have stuck to the same recipes, adding a few more delights, all skillfully grilled. Selections include pork souvlaki wrapped in oil-free pita, served with an abundance of fried chips, tzatziki (yoghurt, cucumber and garlic dip), as an option, and parsley, a definitive touch. The spot also prepares souvlaki with black angus or chicken, as well as a highly recommended kebab (skewered mince) version.
Εn Athinais Alexandra, 1 Apollonos, Syntagma, tel. 2110133533
Volvi
Situated by the entrance of Athens’ central meat market, on Evripidou St, Volvi, a pint-sized place with 2×2 metre dimensions, barely fits a three-member staff. It was launched recently, towards the end of 2020. Do not expect a wide gamut of offerings here, just pork kalamaki and vomvidia, as spicy soutzouki sausage is known in Thessaloniki. The meat pieces and mince used at this place are supplied by the neighboring market’s butcher shops. The kalamaki, very delicious, can be ordered either in pita bread – you will probably end up ordering at least three, as these wraps are small and addictive – or as a dish, with tomato, onion, capsicum and mustard. The innocent-looking soutzouki sausage is devilishly spicy. Served like the skewered kalamaki, it, too, is irresistible. Don’t bother asking for fried chips. They go against this place’s principles. It closes the same time as the meat market, after 6 pm.
Volvi, 24 Evripidou, Athens, tel. 2111180587
