A few weeks before Christmas and the city is getting in a more festive mood. The main pedestrian high street in Athens, Ermou street, is going through constant changes. The shop owners are making their window displays more beautiful, the municipal workers are hanging Christmas lights and decorations on the street that, for another year, is going to be the centre for Christmas shopping. It really is not just any street in Athens.
It was designed in 1833 in the first city plan by Kleanthis and Schaubert with the goal to be the main merchant street of the capital. That’s why they named it Ermou street, as a reference to the herald of the Gods, and protector of merchants Hermes. It starts at Syntagma square and ends at Kerameikos. It’s divided in three sectors, the first it’s the pedestrian part with the shops, the second is the part where cars are allowed and it between Athinas street and Thiseio, and the third and last part is again for pedestrians and reaches Pireos street and the Gazi area. In this part, in the western section you’ll find the archaeological site of Kerameikos, where apart from being the area where potters had their workshops was also the most important cemetery of Ancient Athens.
The changes through the years
With the passing of time the street has changed many times, with the biggest change being its pedestrianization, which was completed in 1997 and had caused many reactions by the shop owners who were afraid that not allowing cars through would negatively impact their sales. It’s enough to understand the size of the reactions if we consider that talks about the pedestrianization of Ermou lasted almost 20 years. Very soon after the project was completed, everyone understood how important the decision was, since the number of shoppers multiplied. Today there is more work done, at the beginning of Ermou, where it reaches Syntagma square, with the addition of pergolas and 28 large trees.
One of the iconic spots on Ermou street is the church of Kapnikarea that was built in the 11th century and is one of the most historic churches in the city. It’s location has brought it close to being demolished twice, but every time the plans fall through, and thus we have the chance to admire this amazing church – landmark in the centre of Athens. Foot traffic never stops on this street. Even late at night there are many people walking on this pedestrian street, looking at windows or going to one of the many nice restaurants and bars in the area.
To be honest, I prefer the area’s restaurants, so I’ll focus on three tasty stops on Ermou street.
MiraMe Athens, a new bistro in the heart of Athens
After a nice walk on Ermou, and just before Thiseio, on the right side of the street you’ll find this new bistro, housed on the ground floor of the Mira Me Athens hotel. The building was originally a typical Athenian residence of the mid-war era, while on the ground floor, that is where the bistro is located today, the family had a shop. During the restoration, the architect Giannis Zaharakis of a+architects went with the same architectural and decorative “line” he drew for the rest of the hotel, combing the past with the present. The impressive bar, with the large wood shelves with the glassware is what draws the attention, until you see the dishes that are full of flavour and originality. The owners are two inspired people, Paraskevi Kosti and Vasilis Karahalios.
You understand, at first sight, that they like details and leave nothing to chance. After dinner we went on a short tour of the hotel, that confirmed this impression at every corner. Vasilis has a special relationship with gastronomy, and with music! So, he manages to choose the right music for each moment. He is the one, as his wife, Paraskevi, tells me, who takes care of ingredients and checks their quality, while he enjoys observing the kitchen and seeing how it evolves. At MiraMe, you’ll find taf coffee and also a rich à la carte breakfast and weekend brunch with options ranging from comfort food to tasty handmade cocktails.
Everything is masterly made using the best ingredients, seasonal fruit and vegetable from select farms, vegetable gardens and small producers. Aris Roussos is the executive chef in charge who offers dishes from the Greek and Mediterranean cuisine with some Asian influences. The food is made using flawless techniques with flavour being the main goal. Fresh fish, rare meat cuts, pasta and risotto, handmade breads and desserts, all made with expertise, and also love and passion. There are specials every day on the menu using the best quality ingredients on offer, while the menu is often updated. The wine list is curated by the awarded sommelier Aris Sklavenitis to perfectly match the menu, and among the beers you’ll find Delphi and Marea, two fresh, special, Greek labels from the ELIXI microbrewery in Halkida.
118 Ermou Str, tel. 0030 2152151930 – 0030 2152151931
info@mirameathens.com,
www.mirameathens.com
Manouka, Athens’ wine restaurant
Housed on one of the most advantageous roof tops in Athens with a unique view of the Acropolis, its entrance is a stone’s throw from Kapnikarea, on the right, at the entrance of the hotel Utopia. The food by the young and talented Eleni Aleiferi, combined with the wine suggestions by the head sommelier Vasilis Papadopoulos create a unique balance. The cuisine focuses on Greek PDO products, and the chef utilizes her expertise in cooking techniques in combination with her memories of traditional Greek cuisine to use them.
Depending on the season the space changes, and they’ve managed to create a warm atmosphere that fills you with calmness and makes you feel safe. We tried the fish soup with the rich angler flavour as well as the peasant’s salad with cherry tomatoes and mizithra from Crete, cucumber from Knossos and capers from Mani. The fricassee stood out, as it “exudes simplicity, emphasising Greece and the fresh fragrant wild greens.”
At the bar, the talented head bartender Giannis Pissas also creates original mixes. In his recipes that are particularly tasty, he includes Greek ingredients creating a great bridge with the dishes and thus offering a new culinary result.
Manouka, 46 Ermou str, 7th floor of Utopia Hotel
Tel.: 0030 21 0324 1814
facebook.com/manouka.athens
Chelona by Cava Nektar
The most popular dish is the beef carpaccio with parmesan cream, truffle oil and herbs. It’s a space that, together with Cava Nektar creates a hot spot in the centre of Athens and unfolds its love for wine and its harmonious coexistence with food.
The flavour palette is Mediterranean, while they also have an air-conditioned cigar room to create the ideal conditions to enjoy a cigar. A visit to the cellar will reveal some of the best wine labels. Their rich wine list has Greece as a starting point but includes great choices from the international vineyard, including sparkling wines, champagnes, premium spirits and cocktails.
They encourage sharing. Prawn skewers with potato salad and lamb terrine, cooked with mashed carrots, are both included on the menu, creating a casual, unrestricted cuisine. A thinly cut grilled beef with smoked mayonnaise, but also a chili con carne, all facilitate a meal in which taste is the lead. Meatballs in forest fruit sauce, tuna tartare, tortillas, beef burgers, rice bowls, rib eye steak and many more create a menu to cover every preference and craving at the same time showcasing the value of quality ingredients and good preparation. Chelona is at 121 Ermou street, as you go towards Thiseio on the left.
121 Ermou str, tel.: 0030 2103222243
facebook.com/chelona.athens
