We found ourselves on the slopes of Zagori, accompanied by one of the region’s connoisseurs and a specialist in mushroom foraging, Vassilis Katsoupas. He is the owner of the restaurant “Kanela & Garyfallo” (Cinnamon and Clove) in the village of Vitsa, which features locally foraged mushrooms in every dish. We walked with him in the mountains of Zagori, among verdant landscapes, watered by the first autumn rains. The ground was beginning to turn green, laying a welcoming carpet and we didn’t miss the opportunity to visit a few favourite spots. Every time Vassilis would come across mushrooms of the season, he would expound on them, give us important tips and he would always emphasize that mushroom picking should be done carefully by experienced people who can distinguish edible mushrooms.
“Autumn and spring are the best seasons for mushroom hunting as the rains and mild temperatures favour their growth. Apart from the natural conditions, however, a much more important factor is the right attitude of visitors. A walk in the mountains is an opportunity to discover, learn and enjoy the magic of nature. Our presence should be discreet, walking on tiptoe, not littering, not trampling the vegetation, not causing unnecessary noise or damage”, notes Vassilis, while also analysing how important a link in the chain of forest life mushrooms are.
“Mushrooms are an important link in the life of the forest and by observing them we learn about the subtle underground interdependencies that govern the natural environment. In this sense, I think the ideal mountain walk would involve someone who is aware of these dynamics and helps us discover the unseen world beneath our feet.”
In this light, and bearing in mind that Vassilis is a hospitality professional, the discussion turned to tourism and its recent course, which has changed dramatically.
“Last year was a very difficult one for businesses, as we were closed for a very long time. Nonetheless, this summer was surprisingly good and there is still increased activity in autumn. Our region boasts exceptional assets: sparsely populated traditional villages, unique nature, endless opportunities for exercise and recreation without crowds. We hope that our fellow citizens will continue to comply with the protection measures so that there are no outbreaks, especially during the festive season, which is particularly important for tourism.”
The visitors’ interest
“There are visitors who came to the mountain just for fun, but in recent years the number of visitors who express genuine interest in discovering the natural wonders of Zagori and Epirus has been increasing”. This is how Vassilis Katsoupas describes the situation, noting that “the only way to do this is on foot. You can enjoy a walk on the mountain admiring the beautiful view just like that. That said, walking in the mountains gives us the opportunity to get in touch with nature and observe features that are crucial to understanding the richness and magic of interspecies relationships in the natural world.” There are now enough mountain guides who have the knowledge to make this walk an interesting, educational and mentally invigorating experience. The interest in mushrooms is part of this broader context. “Going to the mountains just to find and collect edible mushrooms indicates a wrong mentality. Gluttony is dangerous; it is the thirst for knowledge that provides real thrills”.
Identifying mushrooms
“There are over 2,000 species of mushrooms and they belong to different categories. Their growth depends on climatic conditions and habitat. For example, some mushrooms grow in forests and others in meadows, some thrive when it is still relatively warm and others appear as soon as the temperature drops. One thing is for sure, you will find a wide variety of mushrooms of different colours, shapes and sizes. It is very useful to have a pocket book, a mushroom guide, so that you can start to identify the mushrooms we happen to find on our way. However, identifying mushrooms is quite difficult and requires knowledge and experience that most people do not have. That’s why the first rule when we go for a walk in the mountains is not to pick mushrooms on our own.”
Kanela & Garyfallo restaurant
Vassilis’ restaurant “Kanela and Garyfallo” (+30 26530 71671) has been operating in the village of Vitsa since 2005. It is a themed restaurant specializing in mushrooms and offers a full menu with more than thirty dishes containing a variety of mushrooms, including their own shiitake and more than twenty species of wild mushrooms foraged by experienced partners. Weather permitting, we offer the opportunity to participate in a mushroom safari in the forests of the region with a qualified and experienced guide and the subsequent tasting feast, always upon request (manitaria@outlook.com). Of course, there are many mushroom-free options and seasonal dishes based on traditional recipes from Epirus, while the restaurant also features an updated wine cellar with more than one hundred and forty wine labels.
Mushroom cappuccino soup recipe
Serves 4-6
Ingredients
1 leek and 1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 kg mixed fresh mushrooms e.g. champignons, oyster mushrooms, shiitake, Portobello
1 kg fresh wild mushrooms that you can source from reliable foragers or 100 gr mixed dried mushrooms (king boletus, trumpets, Chanterelle)
500 g vegetable or meat stock
1 small potato, diced
200 gr heavy cream
Olive oil, salt and pepper
Method
Clean and chop the fresh mushrooms; be careful not to wash the mushrooms with water, but wipe them carefully with a damp towel and a brush.
Soak the dried mushrooms in a little lukewarm water, just enough to cover them, for 20-30 minutes. When they are tender, remove mushrooms from the soaking liquid, reserving the latter.
Heat some olive oil and a little butter (optional) in a large saucepan and cook the onions and leeks until soft, about 5-6 minutes.
Add the mushrooms and cook for another 10 minutes until softened.
Pour in the stock and the reserved soaking liquid, the diced potato, 1-2 glasses of water, salt and pepper and simmer for 1 hour. Slow and gentle simmering improves the flavour.
While the soup is cooking, prepare the cream.
In a jar or other container with a lid, add the cream, a little salt and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice. Cover tightly and shake. Leave the jar in a relatively warm place, e.g. on the kitchen counter, near the boiling soup to thicken.
Serving
Reduce the heat to low, and purée the liquid with a hand-held mixer until it reaches a thick consistency. It should give a velouté soup. Serve it hot in a tureen, and add a spoonful of the cream, which should by now have a yogurt-like consistency. Alternatively, you can use strained yoghurt. Season with freshly ground pepper and serve with toasted bread.
