At just past one in the afternoon, the hustle and bustle on the streets of Mytilene, save for the coastal road which seldom rests, starts to quieten. Before a homely afternoon meze meal, or even for a full-fledged feast, friends, colleagues, and entire families gather in the city’s quaint taverns.
Scattered in every corner of the city, from the Sinoikismos to the Upper Scala, from the Vareia to the modern centre, gatherings around a table adorned with a paper tablecloth, festooned with beautiful small dishes offering classic and timeless flavours, and the slender glasses filled with the white, opaque liquid never staying empty, preserve and prolong a culture spanning many decades.
The most substantial discussions, the finest gossip, political analyses, commentary, and even confessions, unfurl accompanied by the drink, fragrant with herbs and sweet anise. The pasta dishes, the ladotyri cheese, the seafood, the beans, as well as the seasonal salads and cooked meals, harmonise perfectly with the distillate. Beautiful bottles, adorned with imaginative, modern labels, and others bearing the timeless, traditional recipes and soft flavours – sometimes harsher – but always with anise clouding the liquid, and occasionally clouding one’s judgement if not careful, remain on the tables as evidence until the last person rises from their chair. Lesvos and this distillate are synonymous concepts, intertwined and inseparable.
Infused with stories passed down through generations, the essence of ouzo intertwines with the heritage of Lesvos. Its history is as deep as the waters that surround the island, stretching from the bygone era of Smyrna, flowing seamlessly into today, and undoubtedly ushering into the morrow. Bearing a name believed to be inspired by the inscriptions on the export crates to Marseille, “Uso di Massalia” — denoting its intended use in Marseille — this spirit embodies quality, a trait recognised and protected as a Geographical Indication by the European Union, an assurance that only distillations from Greece and Cyprus can proudly bear this name.
When the time comes to partake in this treasured ritual, the journey begins with a tall, slender glass, to which crisp, cold water is added, followed by a touch of ice to maintain its delicious coolness. Never to be experienced alone, it calls for a symphony of mezes to complete the experience.
At four locales across the city of Mytilene, we revisited this ritual, in the heat of August, both at noon and in the evening.
Apagkio
This restaurant welcomes one with an embrace of tradition and contemporary grace. Under the nurturing hands of Ms. Ariadne, the kitchen kickstarts early, setting the stage with fresh bread and delicacies that resonate with the heart of the island. It’s a lively hub, with Mr. Stathis orchestrating a ballet of in-and-out movements in this small but active venue situated within a vibrant neighbourhood and echoing with life.
From early hours, patrons gather, enveloped in the aromatic allure of the ouzo. A culinary journey unfolds, presenting specialties like salt-baked sea bream and red mullet alongside the classic variety, opening a delightful chapter in the ouzo appetisers-narrative. From bitter greens to dried broad beans, boiled white beans, and lemony oil-drizzled boiled shrimp, the offerings here delight you with a quality that remains steadfast throughout the year.
Address: Eleftheriou Venizelou & Odyssea Elyti, Mytilene, Phone: +30 22510 20797
Koutsomytis’ Ouzeri
In the area of Synoikismos, elevated above Upper Scala, where a gentle breeze graces a scenic corner, is Koutsomytis’ Ouzeri, a staple since 1992. What was once a café boasting a billiards table has been transformed with heartfelt passion by Spiros Konstantaras, propelled by the dynamic spirit of his wife, Antonia, into one of the most delectable mezze houses in the city. Here, delightful arrays of traditional dishes await – dolmades blanketed in vine leaves, rich, creamy sougania filled with minced meat, an unpretentious pastourmadopita, a staggering meze and a timeless recipe of the house – not to forget the classic pastas, a plethora of cooked dishes, seafood, and grilled meats, ready to be harmoniously paired with a glass of ouzo chosen from a generous selection. From January, chickpeas with goat, a favourite rustic flavour, also join the menu.
Address: 25 Zalogou, Mytilene, Phone: +30 22510 43332
To Balkonaki
Tucked away in a small side street off the stunning coastal road leading to Mytilene’s airport, and facing the small harbour of Vareia, lies To Balkonaki. A few steps above the road level, offering views over the Aegean waters, Patroklos Chatzisevastos operates this delightful taverna, a haven of tranquillity, immaculate cleanliness, and fragrant aromas. Having served in the establishment since childhood, when his parents, Giorgos and Maria, ran it, he has learnt to timelessly honour quality.
While the focus remains on seafood, especially the calamari, which is as succulent and sweet as a dessert, several of his cooked dishes and mezzes reveal a homely, maternal love, reminiscent of a mother who knows her way around the kitchen. Particularly notable is the Imam dish, whose aubergines are left to marinate in sauce for a day before cooking, as well as the kokkinisto. Its delectability spreads by word of mouth, an embodiment of authentic culinary artistry and nostalgia.
Address: Vigla Mytilene, Phone: +30 22510 42331
O Dimos
Located right at the downward curve, by the harbour of Upper Scala with the eastern-facing panorama of the Castle, “Dimos” quintessentially embodies the vibe of a Mytilenian ouzeri. Imagine the scene: empty bottles lining neighbouring tables, heralding the next round of orders, a miniature mountain of grape leaves being delicately prepared in the room adjacent to the kitchen, grilled octopus arms being ferried to and fro, the seemingly humble but utterly delightful beans, the grilled ladotyri cheese, and the skate accompanied by its garlic dip – all these elements, united with the azure sea below, paint a vivid tableau of mezze, camaraderie, laughter, a zest for life that borders on boisterousness, and in the end, the ouzo that threads it all together.
Indulge in both the drink and the essence of Mytilene, with respect and responsibility.
Address: 2 Navmachias Ellis, Mytilene, Phone: +30 22510 42630.
