While approaching Iraklia, I couldn’t help but wonder how a ship this big could fit in a port this small. For, Iraklia is a tiny island and its port is correspondingly small. Getting off the ship, one finds that time here has stopped somewhere in the 70s. Fortunately, mass tourism has not yet affected the island, which still remains calm and quiet. Iraklia is the largest island of the so-called Small Cyclades, the island cluster hidden between Naxos and Amorgos. But, enough with geography. My visit to the island had a specific purpose and a gastronomic one at that.
Giannis Gavalas is a well-known Greek chef who has worked for years in high-end restaurants in Athens and Mykonos Island. However, a few years ago he got tired of all the hustle and bustle. Moreover, he always wanted to return to his homeland, Iraklia, in this miniature of an island, and to set up his own restaurant, where he would cook with Cycladic products and pair traditionally Greek flavours and aromas with modern culinary techniques. In other words, he wanted to continue doing what he knew best and had been doing all these years in the various restaurants he had worked in. It took a while for this thought to mature in his mind and to finally make his dream come true. And so, two years ago, he renovated his parents’ house, set up a modern and well-equipped professional kitchen, laid tables in the beautiful courtyard, started collecting delicious treasures from the Cyclades islands, and got down to work.
I have been longing to visit Araklia -as Giannis has named his restaurant- all winter. Not only because I would get to visit this teeny island of great natural beauty for a few days, but also because I would get to try once again Giannis’ devilishly delicious dishes. The restaurant is located on the hill you find just after leaving the harbour and the golden sandy beach with the tamarisks. The view from the restaurant’s terrace is unique: the first thing that catches the eye is Venetiko islet and right after the neighbouring Schinoussa in the foreground· then the eye drifts to the endless blue background to finally meet the islands of Keros and Amorgos. And as you sit there devouring eagerly this perfect summer setting, the picture gets suddenly filled with the intoxicating scent of jasmine.
Giannis’ dishes are in perfect harmony with the scenery. “I work with suppliers from various Cycladic islands. I source handmade hilopitaki (traditional Greek pasta variety), sea fennel and wine from Tinos, louza (one of the finest Greek cold cuts, traditionally made in the Cyclades), potatoes from Naxos, cheese from Andros and Ios, tomato paste from Milos, sausages from Mykonos and psimeni raki(traditional honey and clove flavoured liquor) from Amorgos” he tells me. In other words, in Giannis’ dishes one can taste all Cycladic goodies. In addition, all winter long, Giannis collects local products which he also includes in his menu, such as fava beans (yellow split peas) and herbs.
That night I tried his tyroloukoumades (type of fried cheese balls) made with traditional graviera (gruyere cheese) from Naxos and goat cheese from Ios. They were crispy and golden without a trace of grease. I also tried his fava dish, made with yellow split peas, which Giannis picks himself from his own field, capers and sun-dried tomatoes from Tinos; his sautéed amaranth greens with xynomizithra (traditional Greek whey cheese with a sour taste) from Iraklia –a simple yet delicious dish- and his soft and airy ladenia (the Greek version of Italian foccacia) with sweet tomato paste from Milos. Hold on, those were just the starters! Next, with great relish, I tried Giannis’ grilled octopus with mung beans and creamy fava bean dip, his greater amberjack skewers with lime, as well as his fragrant tabbouleh style trahana (a type of Greek rustic pasta made out of flour and milk or yoghurt) and the most tender, slow roasted stuffed goat.
Araklia is a restaurant for the lovers of delicious Greek food, which is not always easy to find in Athens, for instance. But to be honest it doesn’t bother me. I actually like that it is located there, on that island. Although Giannis would certainly cook just as deliciously everywhere, the restaurant would not be the same if it were located anywhere else, especially in a big city. So if you are somewhere in the Small Cyclades or near Naxos, do pay a visit. Or better yet, arrange a trip to this petite island. It will reward you to the fullest.
Iraklia, Small Cyclades, contact: 2285071570
