Volos is the ideal destination for a short escape both due to its proximity to Pelion and due to the town itself that offers a variety of experiences. One of the most unique, unforgettable experiences is a visit to one of the celebrated tsipouradika (traditional taverns serving tsipouro -traditional pomace raki- and meze).

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A bit of history

The origins of tsipouro production in Thessaly are lost in time, but a more focused vine cultivation in the area occurred in the second half of the 19th century, especially after the cession of Thessaly to Greece in 1881. Tyrnavos held the first place in the production of tsipouro, followed closely by many Pelion villages, Nea Anchialos, and the rest of Thessaly. This fine spirit also appeared in Volos, but the locals would drink it neat or with roasted chickpeas, something that started to change with the coming of the immigrants from Asia Minor in 1922, who settled mostly around the centre of Volos and the Nea Ionia neighbourhood. The immigrants worked at the port, at small factories or opened small neighbourhood shops. After work, in the afternoon, it was their habit to have some tsipouro with fish meze, as a sort of appetizer, before going home for dinner. And thus, the first tsipouradika opened in Volos and the immigrants’ habits spread throughout the town. At first, the meze was simple and frugal, consisting of small fish that could be grilled over coals. In addition, in the early years, there was no place for women in the tsipouradika not even in their kitchens. When the menu expanded to include dishes from Asia Minor, as well as fried dishes, women started appearing, at least in the kitchen.

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Photo: Shutterstock
Photo: Shutterstock

The rules and ritual

You don’t go to a tsipouradiko to get stuffed, nor to get drunk. The ritual and the philosophy of ordering aims at prolonging the time people spend together in each other’s company. It may have started with a short stop before heading home for dinner, but now tsipouradika require time. When the locals say “let’s go for tsipouro” they most likely mean for lunch, and in fact, many tsipouradika close in the evening. Another important factor is the number of people going for tsipoura. The more people at the table, the more mezes at the table. The authentic tsipouradika don’t take reservations, and usually they don’t have a menu. You only order tsipouro and the meze follows. You’ll hear the waiter just calling out numbers to the cooks, nothing more. The food served at the tsipouradika is increasingly more and better as the tsipouro rounds follow one another. The first tsipouro you order will come with basic meze. As you order more tsipouro the dishes get better. The food brought with the tsipouro can be anything from cheese, olives, tomato and aubergine spread, to sardines, marinated anchovies, calamari, octopus, shrimp, mussels, oysters, fried fish. Of course, this isn’t true in every tsipouradiko, but it’s a good rule of thumb. Below, you’ll find a list of seven plus one tsipouradika in Volos that serve great meze and tsipouro.

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Photo: Kavouras
Photo: Demiris

Kavouras

On a small alley near the port, this is one of the oldest and most famous tsipouradika in Volos, and that’s why at lunch it’s always packed. They serve tsipouro that’s light, and their mezes are well-made. The interior resembles an old kafenio (traditional coffee shop) and it has many regulars that come here almost daily, but you’ll feel right at home very fast.

Info: 3 Hatziargiri str, Volos, tel.: 0030 24210 28520, open daily, except for Sunday, 08:00-18:00

Demiris

A traditional tsipouradiko in Nea Ionia, known for its shellfish: mussels, smooth clams, cockles, scallops, grooved sea squirts, and sea urchins might come even with the first rounds of tsipouro. A special dish is kolitsiani (fried battered sea anemones).

Info: 23 Efremidou str, Nea Ionia, Volos, tel.: 0030 24210 65559, open daily, except for Monday, 11:30-01:00

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Photo: Stratos

Filaraki

Everything is fresh and well-grilled, as at “Filaraki” they don’t serve any fried fish. The menu includes small fish, crabs, crayfish, octopus, calamari as well as shi drum and whatever else the daily catch brought.

Info: 54 Krokiou str, Volos, tel.: 0030 6950 670794, open Tuesday-Wednesday-Saturday-Sunday 13:30-19:00, Thursday-Friday 14:00-18:00 and 21:00-00:00, Monday closed

Gianna-Nikos

This tsipouradiko is a favourite among the locals, with seating on the square under the trees. Fast and friendly service, fresh fish and seafood from local boats.

Info: 43 Papakiriazi, Volos, tel.:0030 24210 22767, open daily, except for Sunday, 11:00-18:00

Tzimis

A large tsipouradiko with both indoor and outdoor seating, here you’ll enjoy great tsipouro and delicious mezes, like fried anchovies and garlic sauce mousse, octopus and tuna salad.

Info: 75 Miaouli str, Nea Ionia, Volos, tel.: 0030 24213 00093, open daily except for Tuesday, 12:00-02:00

Stratos

Great tsipouro, light fried food and great grill is what you’ll find at this Nea Ionia tsipouradiko. Their grilled cuttlefish and stingray are excellent.

Info: 89 Meandrou str, Nea Ionia, Volos, tel.: 0030 24210 91626, open daily, except for Tuesday, 11:30-19:00, Friday and Saturday until 23:30

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Photo: Bokos
Photo: Mezen

Bokos

It’s almost always full, with groups of locals enjoying great mezes at great prices. You need to pace tsipouro, but the delicious mezes here will have you ordering constantly to taste more food.

Info: 143 Meandrou, Nea Ionia, Volos, tel.: 030 24210 66683, open daily, except for Wednesday, 11:30-00:00

Mezen

“Mezen” first opened in 2013, as a new generation tsipouradiko, based on the tradition and philosophy of the tsipouradika, serving more sophisticated mezes, sourcing its ingredients from small producers. Try the cod seftalia, the shi drum with tzatziki and wild radish, as well as the smoked grilled octopus.

Info: 8 Alonisou str, Volos, tel.: 0030. 24210 20844, open daily, except for Tuesday, 12:30-00:00

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