Long ago, legend tells us, the scaros ‘Parrot’ fish wasn’t merely a fish but a prince. This regal being still reigns today in the Libyan and Southern Aegean Seas, as well as the Cretan and Carpathian waters, specifically in the area known as ‘The Lyre’s Bow’. This region, home to Crete, Kasos, Karpathos, and Halki, traces the journey of the ancient Minoans towards the East.
As a harbinger of summer, the scaros fish animates the coastline of the islands. Its arrival marks the dynamic convergence of land and sea, stirring a plethora of phenomena and emotions.
Islanders gave the fish various names based on their primary colors — red, white, brown — and even their distinct hues. The greenish variant, which dwells in burrows, is known as “Thalamitis.” They call it “Melitzanis” when it leans towards purple or “Pharmakitis” in simpler terms.
From subsistence fare to Roman feasts
The scaros is a paradox: aristocratic yet humble. Once a coveted dish at lavish Roman banquets, it also found its place in the simplest kitchens born of necessity. Each spring, scaros return to the Southern Aegean from the shores of Africa, where they spend the winter. Their return signifies the seaside season of plenty, allowing foragers to gather bounties from both land and sea. The scaros, a relatively large fish, is easily caught from the shore, requiring only minimal gear — a long rod, a fishing line, a lead weight, and a hook. Even the most novice fisherman could select promising fishing spots and bait their line with crab or the readily available limpet.
As the fresh catch of thousands of nets returns to the island, it becomes clear that modern-day rod fishing pales in comparison to the historical abundance of scaros. Today, diners in restaurants see grilled scaros served before them, signifying nothing more than the start of a delicious meal. However, for the islanders of yore, it was an initiation into the mysteries of island life.
This initiation required young islanders to prepare their rods, catch crabs at night to use as bait, and locate the shoals of scaros fish at dawn. This was the maiden voyage into the world of serious fishing. Even for those not versed in these deep island rituals, the unique taste of scaros fish alone can transport one into its mythology and the rich landscapes of the Southern Aegean.
Scarus entrails: Interesting and delicious
When cooked in its simplest form, the scaros fish might evoke the kind of meal served to King Minos. How else could it have inspired craftsmen to depict it in their exquisite works of art? Even in this elementary form, parrotfish carries a magnificent secret in its entrails. To the surprise of many tourists, locals may ask if they want the scaros fish innards included in their dish.
Why? Because, in the Southern Aegean, these entrails are considered an exquisite meze, thanks to the spicy flavor of its liver. The entrails of the scaros fish caught at dawn, before they had a chance to feed, are clean. With a delicate cut under the left wing, they remove only the gallbladder before grilling the fish without scraping its scales. They serve this meal as a savoro or with a little vinegar and rosemary. Scales, bones, and offcuts are left to dry under the sun, later to be ground and used to feed chickens or as fertilizer. Nothing is wasted. The best fishermen claim to know how to slice the fish with a single cut, ensuring that every part of this sacred fish is used.
Culinary adaptability: Dishes from near and far
The culinary range of the parrotfish goes beyond simple grilling. ” Scaros fish with Okra,” also known as “Papa Yachni,” is a classic Southern Aegean dish, while ” scaros fish Plaki” with tomatoes, onions, and parsley is another popular preparation. Some chefs have also been known to include scaros fish in pasta sauce, or sun-dry it for later use. Others make a type of “ceviche,” borrowing inspiration from Latin America. One can find scaros in a diverse range of dishes, with each island bringing its unique touch. However, all remain in agreement about its delectable taste.
A royal fish in modern times
Today, the scaros has become the undeniable poster-child of Southern Aegean cuisine. Its vibrant scales and toothy grin attract tourists, foodies, and lovers of the sea alike. It holds a revered place on the tables of seaside taverns, with its multi-colored hues speaking of the sun, the sea, the smells of seaweed, and the rhythm of the waves.
The scaros fish has traveled from the depths of the sea and the dust of the desert to the bright lights of modern kitchens, where it continues to charm its admirers. Whether grilled whole on an open flame, delicately spiced with okra, or transformed into a delicious pasta sauce, scaros continues to enchant us with its taste and mythology, adding vibrant notes to the culinary symphony of the Southern Aegean.
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