The staff of the local taverns respect what they do and are good at it. They know their ingredients and honour them. There are master grill chefs at the taverns, usually men, while the casserole dishes are mostly prepared by women, thus preserving the traditional cooking roles. While at the fish taverns, the fish are fried to perfection.
There are three very distinctive dishes in Southern Evia, influenced by Arvanite cuisine: tiropitari, kourkoumpinia and vouloto lamb.
Tiropitari (crescent moon shaped with thin filo) or tiganopsomo (round with more filo layers) is a sourdough or yeast dough spread into filo and stuffed with soft white touloumotiri cheese made with goats’ and sheep milk – the touloumotiri from Karystos is famous. Kourkoumpinia are considered the typical Arvanite pasta, so you’ll also find it elsewhere, also called gogkles or tzolia. And vouloto lamb is made with garlic and salt and pepper seasoned lamb cooked on low heat in a Dutch oven (or a pot sealed with dough) for many hours till it becomes soft and sweet.
We’ll mention taverns starting with those located in Amarinthos and heading to Cavo D’oro. Of course, not every good tavern has been included on this list, we only recommend the ones that the travel.gr team has tried. We’ll try the rest on our next visit to Southern Evia.
Limanaki
One of the best fish taverns in the whole of Evia. Clean and neat, at the edge of the small bay of Amarinthos. They serve guests at the cool, covered balcony on the sand, right next to the huge eucalyptus tree, and also on the pier in the sea. The ingredients, and the fresh fish and seafood come from the Evia gulf and the Aegean sea, while the owner, Giorgos Marinos is in charge of the kitchen.
However, the real surprise comes from the young Kostas Marinos, who apart from preparing the casserole dishes, prepares a whole range of exquisite raw and smoked fish and seafood (he smokes them himself): seabass and seabream carpaccio, tuna ceviche etc. We also recommend the al dente shrimp pasta fresca and the local trachanas (traditional pasta made with flour, milk or yogurt) with shrimp or seabass. Their fried fish is light and the grilled fish juicy. Many Athenians and locals come here to enjoy the raw fish accompanied by ouzo. They also have a select wine list with many white wines and a few reds. The hall has been painted by a local artist.
Amarinthos, Amarinthos Port, tel.: 0030 2229036609
Mesostrati
This little tavern on the endless Almiropotamos beach feels like a local haunt you pop to from home, for a quick glass of ouzo or two with friends. It has an amazing view of the sea and sources its fish from the local caiques, the moment they arrive with the day’s catch.
They usually fry and grill good small fish: anchovies, gilt-head bream, bogues, sardines. But they also serve gigantes beans, cod with traditional garlic sauce, cuttlefish with spinach, etc. It’s perfectly attuned with the many beats coming from the busy beach where summer is celebrated to the max.
Almiropotamos, Panagia, tel.: 0030 2223 053188
Cavo Armirihi
What makes this small family run tavern owned by Angeliki and Stelios Nikolis so special is the entire package. It’s located on the stunning Armirihi beach, with unobstructed sea views, and the people are friendly and polite, even when they’re filled to capacity.
Their mother and aunt prepare traditional favourites like pasticcio, stuffed tomatoes and peppers, rooster in red wine sauce, lemon goat stew (and many other goat variations), shrimp pasta, chicken stew, sourdough tiganopsomo. Stelios is in charge of the grilling, and we recommend the mutton chops. The meat and dairy they use are produced by the family, while most vegetables are also organic and homegrown. Finish your meal with the walnut pie.
Armirihi, tel.: 0030 6949912936, 0030 6983041016
I taverna tou Giorgou
A very good family run fish tavern located at an amazing spot on the wide sandy beach of Limnionas – with a stunning sea view. You need to climb a few steps to get to the covered balcony. While at the long and narrow side balcony, covered in vines, the single line of tables offers a sense of privacy.
Fluffy tiganopsomo made with local goat and sheep milk cheese, fresh grilled fish, lobster and shrimp pasta, perfect fried calamari. They also serve local meat on the grill. The owner, Konstantinos (Ntinos) Palis runs the place masterfully: the staff, including himself, is genuinely friendly and service is great.
Limnionas, Mesohori, tel.: 0030 6932771777
Mouries
Next to a verdant creek with plane trees and bodies of water, this family run tavern has been open since 1930, and is now in the hands of the fourth generation. They have an elevated, shaded balcony, and for the winter a rustic hall with a fireplace. They serve a wide variety of meat from their farm (they even have deer), and local cheeses and vegetables.
If you want to try the local cuisine, here they make amazing casserole dishes like mutton or deer with handmade kourkoumpines, lamb with sour grapes, pies and tiropitari, as well as sourdough bread prepared by Mrs Pagona. Mr Antonis prepares the excellent grilled meats and skewers.
The more creative part of the menu has been created by young chef, Mihalis Antoniou, recommending imaginative dishes like lamb meatballs with tomato and basturma sauce, Dirfis mushroom ravioli with Septum beer sauce and smoked pancetta, beef cheeks in red wine, rosemary caramelised pork shank. The service is friendly and professional.
Paradisi, Marmari – Amigdalia road, tel.: 0030 2224031760
To Honi
A family run tavern with traditional cuisine from Karystos. It’s located in the countryside, at 500m altitude, right outside the village Katsaroni. From its large elevated garden-balcony you’ll have a panoramic view of Karystos and the sea. Mrs Olimpia prepares tasty casserole dishes, rooster or goat in tomato sauce served with kourkoumpines, lemon goat stew, Dutch oven lamb, spinach pie, and sourdough bread.
“To Honi” is famous for its skewered meat (lamb, kokoretsi, kontosouvli), its exceptional lamb chops and ribs, and, in general, its grilled meat. The chicken, the lamb and goat meat is from their farm. The large windows allow for unobstructed views if you decide to dine indoors (recommended for chillier nights).
Katsaroni, 5th km on the Karystos-Halkida road, tel.: 0030 2224024152, 6932647374
Meat tavern Mitsakos
Straightforward meat dishes. Pay no heed to the quite plain décor and head to the large veranda from where you’ll be able to see the entire south part of the Evia Gulf and Stouronisi in the background. If you’re there at sunset, it’s even better.
Order the liver wrapped in caul fat, the Dutch oven lamb, the grilled mutton chops, or one of the many large skewers (kokoretsi, pork kontosouvli, lamb). The lamb, goat and pork comes from their farm, while the rest of the meat, produce and dairy comes from the local dairy and neighbouring villages. The prices are very reasonable. The man in charge of the grill is the owner Spiros Oikonomou.
Reouzi (Zoodohos Pigi), 3km outside Nea Stira, Lepoura – Karystos road, tel.: 0030 2224051405
To Steki ton Dipnosofiston
Housed in a lovely stone building, worth visiting in its own right, in Kria Vrisi, next to the springs, under the plane trees. The whole concept behind the menu is based on the ancient Greek idea of the symposiums (banquets), where you could eat and enjoy the company of your friends. And that’s the atmosphere the owners, Sofia and Vangelis, have created.
So, the names of the dishes are inspired by ancient Greece. Some of their signature dishes include the pork pancetta with sweet-and-sour sauce, honey, thyme, garlic chickpea sauce, swordfish in berry sauce, or pork fillet stuffed with plums, served with artichokes and pea puree. They also have a club you can become members of.
Stira, Kria Vrisi, tel.: 0030 22240 42100, 0030 6936 061261
Xipolitos
A family run tavern with rustic décor and wooden tables located in a great spot with a view of the forest near the mountainous village Pothi. The old Pantopolio (grocery stop) is quite unique, a shop within a shop, selling anything ranging from pins to pans and pots. The owner, Dimitris Xipolitos, who is also the deputy mayor of Karystos, loves cooking and has a deep knowledge of the local cuisine.
80% of the dairy (toulomotiri and kefalotiri), and the meat come from the owner’s farm: lambs, sheep, pigs, cows, roosters – even the sausages with orange and savory or the salted pork (paspala). The vegetables are from local vegetable gardens. The vouloto lamb is a must-try, as is the tiropitari, the kourkoumpines and the twisted greens pie with touloumotiri. They also serve a variety of grilled and skewered meat, as well as sourdough bread with anise, baked in a wood-burning oven.
Pothi, Gianitsio – Hania national road, tel.: 0030 6974892742
Gefsiplous
Here, you’ll enjoy Greek creative cuisine created by chef Giannis Baxevanis, who is the consultant chef. The restaurant with the white façade is located in the centre of Karystos, housed in a 200-year-old stone building. It’s develops in three spaces: on the pedestrian street right outside, on the elegant winter hall, and at the back, “hidden” in the narrow streets of the old town.
To get an idea, here you can try three-meat kebabs with green lemon and yogurt sauce, served on a crispy pita, grilled boneless chicken thigh served on an aromatic tabouleh bed, grilled seafood with black tarama mousse and greens, meatballs with black eyed peas sauce and beet mousse, cuttlefish risotto in ink, with fennel and oyster sauce. Everything prepared by chef Thodoris Theodorou and his team.
Karystos, 3 Theohari Kotsika str, tel.: 0030 222402569
Cavo Doro
Traditional cookshop on a scenic street overlooking the sea, in a building built in 1897. They have an old-fashioned display of the steaming casserole dishes.
Goat fricassee, grilled sardines fillet, stuffed courgette with egg and lemon sauce, rooster in tomato sauce served with kourkoumpines, lemon rabbit with celeriac and sweet potato puree, hunkar begendi, homemade tiropitara, nice meatballs and many more dishes, depending on the season. They also serve grilled fish and meat. The tables outside are few and the service cheerful.
Karystos, Kriezotou str (off Sahtouri), tel.: 0030 22240 22326
Karystion
Karystion hotel’s restaurant, on the elegant veranda within the verdant garden with a sea view, is interesting. It’s great for a fancy night out or for a special occasion. Nice art de la table, and very polite servers.
The menu is Mediterranean fusion, inspired by the Mediterranean coasts of Italy and France and the Middle East, as well as by traditional Greek cuisine. They use local ingredients. Petros Haveles is the consultant chef and Giannis Manolis the chef de cuisine.
Karystion Hotel, Karystos, Kriezotou str, tel.: 0030 2224 022191
Agoni
A neat, pet friendly restaurant on the promenade of Karystos with tables in a cool garden. They mostly serve fish and seafood with few meat options and a wide variety of appetizers.
There’s also a short list of daily specials that the owner and cook Meletios Hatzis creates based on product seasonality and the day’s catch. Their fried dishes are very good, as is the al dente shrimp pasta. Nice cutlery.
Karystos, 100 Kriezotou str, tel.: 0030 2224 031358
I taverna tou Panagioti
An archetypical summer tavern at the edge of the lovely Potami beach. Elevated on some rocks, over the sea, the veranda is covered in vines and mulberry trees offering shade and has a view of the Aegean, even reaching Andros. The neighbouring Platanistos river flows out in its garden, running among huge plane trees. It first opened as a coffee shop in 1935, by Panagiotis Kalogirou’s father, but after the road opened, it turned into a tavern.
Mrs Katerina, his wife, cooks lemon goat casserole, stuffed tomatoes and peppers, imam, meatballs in tomato sauce with homemade sauce, pork steak, grilled sausage and beef patties, fried anchovies, saddled seabream and red mullets, as well as grilled Mediterranean barracuda in early summer. Often the fish has been caught by Mr Kalogirou himself. The food comes with salad made with their homegrown tomatoes, while they also make their own wine (of the Savatiano variety).
Potami, Karystos – Amigdalia road (towards Cavo D’oro), tel.: 0030 222402327, 0030 6974311068
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