Despite the jaw-dropping increase in contemporary restaurants serving an innumerable range of cuisines, Athenians are as likely to keep returning to the traditional ‘taverna’ (our very own tavern style) as they are to their mother’s embrace. Often family-run and a few decades old, tavernas are a bridge into the past, where the air is thick with the aroma of sizzling meats, the tang of fresh tzatziki, and the warm, earthy essence of grilled bread, all washed down with house wine as you sit on wood and wicker chairs. The food is predictably tasty, simple and hearty, the atmosphere welcoming, and the history palpable.
Tavernas are where families and friends gather, sharing meals and stories for many hours. Each place has its own speciality, from succulent grilled meats to fresh seafood, served with a side of the famous Greek salad, usually decent and sometimes splendid ‘hima’ (house) wine and a semolina halva dessert or fruit platter on the house.
For visitors looking to experience Athens beyond its ancient ruins, museums, swanky new hotels, shopping and nightlife, these tavernas offer a delicious introduction to everyday Greek culture. It’s a chance to sit back, enjoy a meal, and perhaps, strike up a conversation with the person next to you. Here, the emphasis is on simplicity and quality, reflecting a culinary tradition that values the freshness of its ingredients and the joy of sharing food. ‘Kali Orexi’ (aka Bon Appetite)!
01
Leloudas
Amidst an unassuming backdrop of industrial yards, petrol stations and logistics companies lies an unexpected culinary treasure: Leloudas. Founded in 1928, this historic tavern has survived wars, political upheavals and economic downturns without ever losing its essence or succumbing to modernisation. It stands as a testament to the beauty of simplicity, offering dishes that resonate with authentic Greek flavours. From freshly minced meatballs and succulent goat braised in tomato sauce to Icelandic cod with garlic puree, each dish tells a story of tradition and craftsmanship. The menu also includes organic fava beans, fenou beans, crispy Naxos potatoes with minced meat and dried myzithra cheese from Kalavryta, and either Mediterranean grapes or oven-baked plums for dessert.
The place has become a favorite stop for truckers on their national routes, but it also attracts a diverse crowd, each adding to the rich tapestry of stories shared around the tables. A visit to Leloudas (btw a 10 min cab ride from the center) is not just a meal, it’s an immersion in a world where the road less travelled leads to unforgettable culinary delights.
02
Athinaikon
Since its doors first swung open in 1932, this quality place has straddled the line between a traditional taverna and a more refined restaurant, without losing its grip on the essence of classic Greek cuisine. The venue is known for its extensive assortment of meze dishes, perfect for nibbling alongside a chilled glass of wine. Among its signature offerings are the hearty gigantes oven-baked beans in a rich tomato sauce, and the delightful keftedakia, small, mint-seasoned meatballs that are a perfect blend of crispy and juicy.
Not to be missed is the saganaki with pastourma, a melt-in-your-mouth combination of cheese and pastrami, and the tsirosalata, a dish featuring marinated smoked mackerel that balances tartness and salinity beautifully. Over the years, it has not only catered to the taste buds of local celebrities, politicians and cultural icons but has also evolved, opening a sibling location that embraces a modern twist on the traditional meze experience.
03
Bakaliarakia
Damigos’ legacy dates back to 1864, initially gaining acclaim for its delectable baby cod dishes. Now in the hands of the fourth generation, the family has expanded the menu while maintaining the tavern’s storied tradition. It has been a favoured haunt for a diverse array of cultural figures, from actors to poets, all drawn by its endearing old school charm.
Key dishes to sample here include – of course – their signature cod, as well as spicy gavros (anchovies), creamy garlic sauce, and rich taramosalata. Known as Bakaliarakia, this legendary underground tavern features a wooden oven and a striking old stone pillar at its heart, creating an inviting ambience perfect for cosy dining on cooler days. Another nod to tradition at Damigos is the wine storage; large wooden barrels, visible to diners, hold wine produced from the family’s vineyards since 1835.
04
Klimataria
This wine tavern, near Varvakeios Municipal Market, has drawn in people with a taste for classic Greek since 1927. Known as a legend among local tavernas, it has nourished generations with its home-cooked meals, looking like something from the old Greek movies.
The ambience of this place, with wine poured from its oak barrels, offers visitors a genuine slice of old Athenian charm. Klimataria prides itself on serving traditional Greek recipes cooked (often slow-cooked and well-stewed) in custom-made clay pots, ready to be enjoyed in its beautiful garden adorned with grapevines. From the year of its establishment, this eatery has become ingrained in the city’s culinary history, with specialities such as snail stifado, gigantes plaki (giant beans baked in tomato sauce), melt-in-your-mouth dolmades (stuffed grape leaves), and homemade pies.
05
Kouvelos
The atmosphere is charged with genuine cheerfulness, especially from the waiters, who will go out of their way to ensure your satisfaction. This place stands out for its wonderfully verdant garden and unexpected variety, not only in the main dishes but also in the accompanying delicacies such as cheeses, ouzos, tsipouros and wines, a rarity for a tavern. As for the mains, the meats are expertly cooked to juicy perfection.
The stews, a personal favourite, and even the pork fillets, which elsewhere tend to be dry, are succulent. The standout dish, stewed goat, is a must-try that will make you drool just thinking about it. Pair it with rosemary chickpeas, a tangy potato salad and irresistibly fresh roast potatoes for an unforgettable culinary journey. Don’t forget to ask for the house wine, a delicious Moschofilero, to complement your meal.
06
Peinaleon
In one of Exarchia’s most beautifully restored neoclassical buildings on Mavromichali Street, a historic tavern has been welcoming guests since 1975. The interior is filled with mirrors dating back to 1919, murals, antiques and old photographs that take guests back in time. The menu, carefully curated by the current owner, a renowned chef with a flair for traditional flavours, focuses on Chian cuisine.
Some of the must-try dishes include roasted mastelo cheese from Chios, a smoky aubergine dip that is perfect for the palate, pork seasoned with mastic for a unique flavour, and croquettes that blend wild greens and herbs into a fluffy delight. Not forgetting the pork served with hand-cut, freshly fried potatoes, a dish that takes comfort food to a new level. As well as serving delicious food, this tavern is a meeting place for alternative artists and students, where the strains of rebetika music foster a sense of community.
07
Diporto
Diporto, a time-traveller’s taverna 10 steps beneath road level, has been serving traditional Greek fare since 1887. This subterranean haunt run by Mr Dimitris, always in his white work shirt, is adored for its old-fashioned authenticity and absence of signage. Inside, the unassuming yet nostalgically evocative decor reflects its storied history with rustic wooden chairs, tables cloaked in paper instead of linen, and wine barrels that are not just for show but part of the dining experience.
Though unwritten, the menu at Diporto, which means ‘with two doors’, offers a daily rotation of 4-5 top quality, traditional dishes, including specialties like small fried fish, velvety chickpea soup, Greek salad and tender grilled octopus, each dish rooted in the simplicity and high flavour of Greek home cooking.
We Know What We’re Talking About
Alexia Amvrazi knows Greece like few others. She’s the Editor-in-Chief of the International edition of Travel.gr, the co-author of the guidebook ‘111 Places in Athens You Must Not Miss’, the former presenter of a 10-year daily radio show about Greek life at AIR FM and, for the past 15 years, the mastermind behind the always up-to-date Fodor’s Athens guide. She has a knack for recognizing beauty and potential and is a true citizen of the world.
