The view of the bay of Agios Ioannis from the top of the hill after Ornos is like a magnificent work of art. The sun starts to descend, outlining the silhouettes of the boats, the luxurious constructions and the church of Agios Ioannis in the corner against a silver background. Just before the end of the bay, on the left, behind the delicate reed walls and clumps, lies the five-star Bill & Coo Coast Suites hotel. The latter hosts in its calm, quiet, unobtrusive and slightly exotic embrace the “beef bar”, the most charming and daring side of luxury dining in a relaxed setting that is in direct contact with nature.
Gazing at the bay of Agios Ioannis and the shifting colours of the sky as the night approaches and the low lights and candles are lit to the subtle tunes coming from the speakers, in the kitchen –located behind the fruit and vegetable counter- the oven fires raise both the temperature and the rhythm. Comparing Bill & Coo’s fine dining at Megali Ammos, Ntinos Foteinakis, executive chef at both restaurants, admits the more “brutal” aspect of the beef bar. As he says, ever since he can remember, he wanted to be a crackerjack Kitchener. Having served haute cuisine for over 20 years, he felt at one point that he had lost his soul and Greek temperament, but eventually managed to bring both back. Thank God, I would say, for the result he delivers and we can still enjoy.
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With his boyish look and teenage style, he describes his daily routine: every day he wakes up at seven in the morning and starts his day with a swim before diving into his duties. With great enthusiasm we rise from the comfortable sofa and head for the kitchen and the fiery pleasure of baking. Don’t let the name “beef bar” fool you into thinking this is a restaurant exclusively for meat lovers, albeit you’ll find a good selection of fine meats on the menu, from Black Angus and Wagyu to certified Kobe Beef Teppanyaki style.
The fish on the menu is caught daily by their own fishermen; the cheese is sourced from all over the Cyclades, while the greens and cherry tomatoes come from Mykonos. “To me, all fresh ingredients are gourmet, even the eggs from my grandmother’s farm can be high-end food,” he tells me, in between instructing his colleagues on how to prepare the dishes we will sample and photograph. “The beef bar feels like my own child,” he continues, “I was on the bulldozer when the foundation work started”.
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Moments before I gather my salivary glands and start shooting, people begin to arriving. So, just before Ntinos Foteinakis slips into the kitchen, he describes Mykonos as his second home, a house that opens its doors wide to accommodate all visitors.
For the record, Tartare & Tartine, i.e. veal bites combined with hazelnut praline and embraced by two sesame wafers, is at once cool, smooth and slightly sour, while the sesame wafers add a little sweetness. Aguachile is a refreshing blend of fruity melon and cucumber juices and caviar on a bed of Sicilian red shrimps. The certified Kobe Gyros is served with tzatziki and tomato on a thin sourdough bun.
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Crispy Rice, that is tuna and beef tartare with sesame cream and rice wafer, will tickle all the taste buds of your palate with its exuberant, full-bodied flavour. To finish, fava bean fritters, grilled octopus and caper chutney. What more could one ask for, huh?
