Autumn-winter is probably the ideal time for a road trip to the countryside, especially if you’re heading to a forest or a region with a significant water element. On this trip we chose the area of north-western Gortynia and Lake Ladona. It’s a less touristy destination than other places in mountainous Arcadia, such as Dimitsana and Stemnitsa on the slopes of Mainalo. Perhaps that’s why it’s so charming. But to get to the Peloponnese, we needed the right vehicle, and the best solution was to rent a car.

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At avis.gr we found what exactly we were looking for, a robust SUV – so that four people could fit comfortably – but also dexterous enough and with excellent performance, as the driver in our group was a fan of feisty driving. The “perfect package” we were seeking was completed by the car being particularly fuel efficient, an important issue in these times of exorbitant fuel prices.

After reaching the Athens-Corinth-Tripoli motorway we then followed the Patras-Tripoli national road to the Foloi forest. It’s worth noting that although the region we chose for our trip is mountainous, the road network is fortunately in fairly good condition and not particularly challenging. This makes the area of northwestern Arcadia, where a triple ‘border’ of the former prefectures of Arcadia, Ilia and Achaia meet, an excellent choice even for an inexperienced driver wanting to enjoy their first road trip.

To reach the Foloi forest we drove along roads with gentle bends, through gorgeous scenery, up and down hills and slopes, alongside grazing flocks of sheep. As beautiful as the journey was – and it really was – it paled in comparison to Foloi Forest itself. This is the only oak forest in the Balkans and the southernmost in Europe. It stretches across 42,000 stremmas, home to an estimated five million oak trees. The uniquely beautiful ecosystem created by these oaks is complemented by other plants and trees, as well as an abundance of mushrooms. The forest is home to foxes, hares, birds, small mammals such as hedgehogs, squirrels and reptiles.

Foloi Forest has an extremely dense but well-maintained network of forest roads. Crossing them in our SUV was a breeze, but even a conventional car wouldn’t have much trouble on most of these roads. As well as driving – and being in a forest – Foloi is also great for walking, with a concentrated network of trails and clearings that are easily accessible. The autumn and winter seasons, when the fallen oak leaves create red and yellow ‘carpets’, are also an ideal time for photographers to have a field day snapping mesmerising images. After this brief adventure in the forest, we drove just over an hour to reach our accommodation in Kontovazaina. The exploration of Ladona and its artificial lake would take place the following day.

Kontovazaina, the Lake and the Bridge of Kyra

Built amphitheatrically on the green slopes of Mount Aphrodisio, Kontovazaina is a beautiful village that impresses as soon as you enter, with a stream, an arched bridge and stone fountains. The village is known for its abundance of water and from various points you can see the Ladon River, the valley and the lake.

One route we particularly loved in the area starts at Kontovazaina and ends at Kyra’s Bridge. Gentle bends and great views of the lake for most of the way make this a must for motoring enthusiasts. The weather was chilly that day, but thanks to the SUV’s heater and large, clear windows, we didn’t miss out on either the views or the warmth. If you’re thinking of taking this route, know that it’s just under an hour’s drive. We took longer, of course, making several stops along the way to the bridge, which is closed all year round.

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Despite its appearance, Lake Ladona is artificial and didn’t exist until the mid-20th century. It was created by the construction of a Public Power Corporation (PPC) dam (on the opposite side of the bridge), and its level and width vary. After a rainy winter, it can be 1.5 kilometres wide, but after a dry summer, it doesn’t exceed 75 metres.

An impressive detail of this phenomenon is the disappearing bridge. The 13th-century arched Kyra’s Bridge, which appears ‘bare’ with a smooth surface, is submerged under the surface of the water for about six months of the year. In summer, when the rains have stopped and the snow recedes, the river re-emerges. Next to it is the new Ladona Bridge – another ideal spot for photography.

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After the bridge we continued on a passable dirt road and after about 10 kilometres we reached the mountainous Valtessiniko. From there, after a coffee stop in scenic Vytina, we took the road back to Athens. Our journey took several hours on a provincial road in the dark of night until we reached the motorway. However, the SUV’s large LED lights and state-of-the-art navigation aids make the journey much easier than we’d imagined. It’s yet another time we’ve been proven right in our decision to rent a car from Avis. We’ll certainly be keeping an eye on avis.gr for their constantly updated offers. After all, with such a quality and economical transport option, the next trip won’t be in too long.

A Few Tips for Enjoying the Area

An attraction well worth your time is Kleivokas Monastery, 4-5 kilometres from Kontovazaina. Perched like an eagle’s nest on a rock at an altitude of 200 metres, it’s known as the “Meteora of Gortynia“.

Another pleasant route starts from the village of Dafni and ends at the Ladona dam. Dafni is a lush village on the border of Achaia and Arcadia. Its highlight is a three-arched bridge. The road to the dam passes through the village of Mouria and includes some fun twists and turns around the lake.

A beautiful route to also experience – this time within Ilia – starts at the Foloi forest and ends at the village of Lampeia. The drive through the pine forest is picturesque, and the village itself (also known as Divri) is perhaps the most beautiful in mountainous Ilia.

Kontovazaina, like the other villages around Ladona, is an ideal base for excursions throughout the central and western Peloponnese. Ancient Olympia is 76 kilometres from Kontovazaina, Dimitsana is just under 60 kilometres away, and the beautiful plane forest of Planitero in Achaia is about 50 kilometres away.

In this article, we have focused more on the driving experience, but it goes without saying that cycling and walking enthusiasts should bring along their bikes and hiking boots to venture out. Foloi and Ladona Lake are full of beautiful and easy routes.

Finally, a detail about Foloi forest that will delight driving enthusiasts: in the past, some of the forest roads have been included in the Acropolis Rally as a special stage. So, when you visit, you can say that you’ve been on a rally course, even in a conventional car.

Read also:

Karya, a Picture-Perfect Village Perched 1,300m High

Vaskina: Pastoral Bliss on Mt Parnon

In the Path of Aristotle in the Kalloni Wetlands