The Roumeli mountains are notorious for their harsh winters, with biting cold and blankets of snow rendering them quite inaccessible. However, outside of this icy season, the natural landscape thrives, making it a prime destination for spring and autumn escapes. Following a kind invitation, we embarked on a journey to Grammeni Oxya in Mountainous Nafpaktia, a village perched at an altitude of 1,160 metres on the north-western slopes of the Vardousia mountains. Naturally, exploring mountainous Nafpaktia requires having a car that’s up to the task, and we found the perfect solution by renting one from Avis.
On Avis.gr, we found exactly what we needed: a robust yet agile car. Both agility and robustness are vital when navigating the challenging mountain roads of the region, and equally important was the car’s fuel efficiency and substantial range – especially in times of high fuel costs and in destinations where petrol stations are scarce.
After picking up our car at a scheduled location, the courteous Avis staff provided us with all the essential knowledge for our trip ahead. We then took to the Athens-Lamia motorway, passed through Makrakomi and continued towards Grammeni Oxya. The drive was nothing short of scenic, with engaging bends and mesmeric views. Just after Gardiki, we made a slight detour to visit the Byzantine Monastery of Stagia, of which the main church remains today. Nearby, there’s also a charming stone bridge.
A Little Note: the route is truly breathtaking, but if you’re considering a visit during winter, we’d advise against it. Snow can hinder movement or halt it altogether at times. On the other hand, the road from the south via the Athens-Patras motorway and then through Nafpaktos is open and paved over throughout the year.
Upon arriving at Grammeni Oxya, it became apparent why our friend had so strongly insisted on us taking this trip. The village’s stone houses looked as if they had been delicately placed amidst fir, oak, chestnut, walnut trees, and beech trees. Indeed, we learned from our friend that the village is surrounded by Europe’s southernmost beech forest.
Certainly, Grammeni Oxya carries tales beyond its beauty. In 1828, it witnessed one of the pivotal battles of the Greek War of Independence, laying foundations for the Greek state. Also, in the 1980s and 1990s, it served as the backdrop for one of the renowned stages of the Acropolis Rally. Yet, while these snippets may be interesting, it’s the majesty of the landscape that truly speaks. Indeed, the fame of the place somehow doesn’t match its inherent splendour.
However, history and archaeology enthusiasts won’t be disappointed either. In the lower neighbourhood of Grammeni Oxya, also known as ‘Lower Village’ or ‘Kalyvia’, discoveries of vases, statuettes, graves, and a handful of coins suggest that ancient Aetolian settlements lay between the chapels of Agios Dimitrios and Agia Marina.
Beyond its verdant allure, the village is abundant with flowing waters. Hence, one of its chief attractions are the crafted stone fountains gracing various terraces and paths. A short journey away stands the Monastery of Timios Prodromos, where visitors can step into the cell of Greek War of Independence hero Athanasios Diakos before he became a revolutionary. Nearby, in the village of Artotina, stands a wooden bust honouring him. These were the wonders we managed to see on just our first day.
Day two saw us en route to Evrytania, a haven for nature enthusiasts and off-road aficionados. Our goal? To reach the ‘Kokkalia‘ area. With favourable weather and our 4×4 ready, we embarked on a 17km drive across uninterrupted mountain meadows at the ridge, where off-roading takes on its most literal meaning. From there, navigating challenging dirt tracks, we headed to the monument commemorating the battle between the Gauls (think of Asterix’s brethren) and the Aetolians in 270 BC.
Suddenly faced with overcast skies, we found our way to the village of Krikello, amphitheatrically built on the Kaliakouda mountain at an altitude of 1,120 meters. We took a moment to wander its picturesque central square and soak in the enchanting vistas of the surrounding mountains, not forgetting a visit to the Church of Saint Nicholas.
Over the following days, our activities followed a similar pattern: driving through stunning landscapes, walking amidst nature’s beauty, and indulging in the rich culinary offerings of Roumeli, where quality meats and cheeses are the stars of the local cuisine.
On our way back, we chose to pass through Nafpaktos. This provided a delightful opportunity to make a prolonged stop at the beautiful Ano Hora of mountainous Nafpaktia and enjoy a seaside meal in Nafpaktos itself. It’s a sweet testament to Greece’s diverse geography that within such a short span, one can transition from mountain to sea. We felt incredibly lucky to have experienced this charming aspect of central mountainous Greece, and given the chance, would return in a heartbeat. And thanks to Avis and its numerous offerings at avis.gr, we suspect that this might be sooner rather than later.
Heading off to Grammeni Oxya? Here’s your savvy guide
Even if Athens is basking in warmth, pack some layers. Temperatures tend to dip, especially when the sun goes down.
Reschedule your jaunt if there’s foul weather or heavy snowfall on the horizon. After all, mountainous Nafpaktia isn’t known for its ski resorts.
In Grammeni Oxya, you won’t find accommodations to lay your head. But if you’re keen to stay in the vicinity, Gardiki, Spercheiada and Makrakomi offer inviting lodgings.
Bring a book. With crisp air and the stillness of the region, it’s the perfect backdrop for some indulgent reading.
Ensure your vehicle is at least of the crossover variety to fully savour the routes and delve into the natural beauty. If it’s four-wheel drive, even better. Avis.gr has a fleet to cater to this, and if you’re curious about going electric, they’ve got that covered too.
Read also:
Wandering Orini Nafpaktia, Greece –Mountains, rivers and scenic villages
Elatou: The mountainous Nafpaktia retreat with verdurous forest paths
An authentic mountainous destination of ravishing beauty in Greece
