It was a trip that we’d been planning for a long time; we wanted to enjoy Crete in the winter, particularly the magnificence of the eastern mountainous region of Crete in Lasithi, during a non-touristy period when we could get a real feel for its authentic beauty. Of course, a trip through Crete’s winter mountain roads required the right vehicle. The solution was found through renting a car from Avis.

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After a brief search on Avis.gr, we found what we were looking for. A Jeep Compass, robust and agile, that could move comfortably along the mountains, with all the necessary comforts and equipment for winter driving. At the same time, it was equally important that the vehicle we chose was fuel-efficient – given that we were facing a journey in a region where fuel stations are few and far between, and have limited opening hours, this was of major importance. A few days later, we landed at Heraklion airport and picked up our vehicle at the scheduled time from the Avis station located there. The very polite staff explained everything we needed to know about the Jeep Compass, and so, a little while later, we began heading east.

The road linking Heraklion with Sitia was probably the most comfortable we traversed on our entire journey, allowing us to enjoy more of our car’s capabilities. About ten kilometers before Sitia, outside the village of Hamezi, we encountered a surprise. A hare jumped in front of us on the narrow road, but thanks to the immediate response of our brakes, the car stopped without anything unforeseen happening. We arrived in Sitia, where our accommodation was located, had dinner, and stayed overnight. The exploration of eastern Crete would begin the next day.

In Villages Where Time Stood Still

In summer, Xerokambos and Chamezi attract quite a bit of tourism, more cars, and tourist activity, but now, in winter, driving for about an hour and a bit from Sitia, we really encountered very few vehicles. After a short coastal stop, we took the “inner” road towards Etia. It’s a village that during the Venetian rule was one of the largest on the island. A past that is clearly revealed in buildings, such as the De Mezzo villa at the northern edge of the village, grand and well-preserved.

From Etia, we drive a few kilometres on a dirt road -naturally, this posed no problem for our car – to reach Voila. We learnt that there have been no residents in the village since the 19th century, but the signs of earlier human presence are strong. The most impressive of these is the Venetian tower, a testament to the village’s prosperity during the Venetian rule. Tradition has it that during the Ottoman Empire, the tower belonged to a Janissary. Not far from the tower, we see another significant building, the Church of Saint George. What’s certain is that wandering the roads of Voila and Etia, in villages that essentially have no permanent residents and in winter don’t even have visitors, was an unforgettable experience.

In Snowy Landscapes

The following day, we chose to live the true mountain winter experience. A few days earlier, snow had fallen on the Dikti mountain range, the place where Zeus was born, according to mythology. However, upon heearing that the road had been cleared and was in good condition, we set off. Knowing we were going to visit a mountain, we had nevertheless chosen to have snow chains in the trunk of our car as an extra provision. Knowing that if anything happened, we would receive roadside assistance, we travelled worry-free.

As we slowly ascended the mountain slopes, the temperature dropped, but fortunately, the atmosphere was clear, so we had good visibility. Even though we were moving uphill and on a road with many turns, the torque and power of the jeep made the journey enjoyable. At some point, we pulled over to the side of the road and park. Opposite unfolded Spathi, the highest peak of the mountain range, in all its majesty.

As we drove through the plateau’s road network, at an altitude of over 1,000 metres, the lucky passengers, other than the driver, continuously had their eyes glued outside the window, gawping at the beauty that surrounded us. The snow-covered landscape was enchanting, yet the snow “concealed” that this area is among the most fertile in Crete. Potatoes as well as vegetables, pears, apples, and walnuts are produced here. At one point, we left the car to get a feel of the snow, delighting in a unique sense of wellbeing that only crisp mountain air during winter offers.

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In late afternoon, we travelled towards Heraklion, to reach the airport for our return to Athens. Our last stop was at Exo Potamoi, another essentially uninhabited village at an altitude of 850 metres, where we had our final encounter with the peaceful and scenic snow-covered landscape of Crete. As we headed to the airport, it was already night, and there was quite a bit of fog. However, the lights and navigation equipment of our car made this journey much easier than anticipated.

What’s certain is that we aim to return to eastern Crete and Lasithi when the weather warms up to explore the coastal part of its southern side. There, some of the most remarkable and “tropical” Greek beaches can be found, visited by people who travel from across the world to enjoy them. Until then, we will occasionally glance at Avis.gr, to keep up with numerous and very good car rental offers and opportunities that are constantly updated.

Read also:

Lasithi, Crete: What Not to Miss

Breathtaking Topolia Gorge in the West of Crete

Eastern Crete’s Charm: History, Luxury and Authenticity