Fir-topped paths, alpine landscapes, cool, crystalline waters that pour from stone fountains, cobbled old-fashioned squares and impressive waterfalls are just a few of many reasons why we were so excited to visit Tzoumerka. We contacted Αvis through its website and found the right vehicle for our mountain drive in Epirus.
Fortunately, there was a great range of cars to choose from that don’t consume much fuel, something that’s very important nowadays especially if you’re going on a big trip. As we drove up the road towards Tzoumerka after a long and in some parts difficult drive, we approach Syrrakos, our final destination, feeling happy to finally be here.
The Kalarrytikos River “cuts” the land in two, while the autumnal sky blends harmoniously with nature. As we navigate the serpentine road, Syrrako, a village built at an altitude of 1,200 metres that seems to hang on the mountain slopes, keeps appearing and disappearing before our eyes.
Syrrako, car-free and architecturally majestic After around five hours on the road from Athens, we park outside Syrrako. Like its neighbour Kalarrites, the village is a designated traditional settlement where entry is forbidden to cars. Our host friend welcomes us and as we walk to his house he offers us a brief historical “journey” of the two villages.
Once upon a time, we were told, both villages thrived thanks to trade, silversmithing and weaving; capes and blankets made there were sold to the finest homes in Europe. The old glamour is also reflected in the beautiful stone mansions with slate roofs that we regard as we walk along Syrrakos’ picturesque cobbled streets. A particularly imposing building is the village’s old primary school, which has been converted into a guesthouse.
A wonderful trail of Kalarittes
The next day we cross the historic path that connects Syrrakos with Kalarrites. The two villages are around 40 minutes’ drive apart, but when following the straight line of the trail crossing the steep Kalarrytikos River gorge the villages are 1800 meters apart. Fortunately for us, it is not raining and the climate makes the hike especially pleasant. .
In around 1 hour and 40 minutes, we reached Kalarrites by hiking a trail that has some challengingly steep parts. The views and immediate contact with lush nature, however, made the effort worthwhile. In Kalarrites, we sat to refuel with Greek coffee at café Akanthos, whose owner Napoleon Zaglis is one of the area’s legendary characters. We were next introduced to authentic Epirot flavours: pork in a clay pot, rooster with noodles and wine from Zitsa.
Well-fed and a little too tired to trek the steep pathways (which are uphill on the way back), we returned from Kalarrites by car, although an experienced hiker would have no trouble returning on foot. Before returning to Syrrakos, we followed the road that took us near the 13 th century Kipina Monastery, which looks as though it’s floating in the air. The verdant and scenic villages of Tzoumerka Over the next few days, our tour included driving to and exploring the area’s splendid natural environment and traditional villages. The amphitheatrically built village of Pramanda, the waterfalls, and the famous cave of Anemotrypa were just some of the sights that we gawped at. We also singled out Vourgareli village, built between two hills covered by fir trees, it has springs with cool water, pretty stone arched bridges and a paved square. If you find yourself here, it’s definitely worth walking along the lovely cobbled path leading to the two stone-built fountains, named the “Archondo” and “Kristallo”.
The bridge of Plaka before saying goodbye to Tzoumerka, we visited a spot that represents the indomitable character of the region: the famous bridge of Plaka. Its arch collapsed in 2015 due to a bout of catastrophic weather but was rebuilt in 2020 out of the same materials as those used 150 years before by the National Technical University of Athens.
Stone, soil, craftsmanship, perseverance, effort. All these and especially a stunning natural
landscape, characterize the beautiful features of Tzoumerka. A great travel destination at any
time of year (except during heavy snowfall), it’s a wondrous mountain destination that you’re
advised to hire a car to explore properly. We were very happy with the rental from Avis, which
offered us a good deal.
We can’t wait to see it again in the spring and summer months when there will we plan to enjoy
even more outdoor activities such as adventurous rafting and swimming experience in the
Acheloos river waters.
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