We’ll start by pointing out the most significant reason why this trip to the mountains, in the heart of summer, proved to be an excellent idea. While we relished the crisp mountain air, the shady gorges, and the cool rivers of Epirus, most of the rest of the country was sweltering in a dire heatwave. So, this alternative destination choice for the summer was vindicated and proved especially ideal, thanks to the top-of-the-range car rental that got us there.
We knew that to navigate the challenging road network of the mountainous Pindus, we needed a very good car, one that would be robust and flexible at the same time. We visited Avis.gr, knowing that we would find a wide range of car categories at our disposal to choose the one that suited our particular needs. We easily found what we were looking for. For our summer journey, we chose a comfortable, mid-sized SUV, perfect for journeys of any distance: a car with all the right features that was at the same time economical in petrol consumption, as our journey would be lengthy and fuel prices are high.
Aristi as our base
We landed at Ioannina airport, from where we picked up the car from the Avis station. The very polite staff gave us the key and explained everything we needed to know about it. We decided to add to our rental the full insurance package, so we could feel secure for the routes in the Greek mountains. We felt relieved to know that we would be able to receive immediate assistance and full coverage, should we need it. When we arrived at our car, we immediately knew we’d made the right choice: the car was in excellent condition and our luggage easily fitted in the trunk.
Our accommodation was in Aristi, one of the most tourist-driven villages of Zagori, which nonetheless has managed to preserve its traditional charm. The geographical position of the village makes it an exceptional base for exploring Zagori, be it in winter or summer. We could talk at length about its beauties, manmade wonders such as stone houses, churches, cobblestone pathways, and fountains. The same holds true for the now-famous Megalo Papigo (to which you will arrive after a winding 20-minute journey that is an experience in itself) and other villages of Zagori. We could also sing the praises of Epirus’ cuisine, simple in ingredients yet rich in flavour. But given that our trip took place in the midst of a scorching summer, we shall focus on what offered us abundant coolness and relaxation for both body and eye. The greenery, the mountains and the waters of Epirus.
A dip in the crystal-clear and freezing Voidomatis
For those familiar with swimming in rivers and waterfalls who haven’t swum in the waters of Voidomatis, it may seem redundant to stress just how cold they are. It’s summer, and the river has lost a fair amount of water, but nonetheless, the experience of a dip there is especially delightful. Initially, we chose to swim near the bridge that leads to Papigo, where there’s ample space to enjoy the cool river waters, in a place with a beach-like atmosphere.
An excellent spot also exists near the stone bridge of Kleidonia, for dives under the grand plane trees. This particular river is an ideal starting point for one to commence rafting, as navigating the river is quite easy, while at the same time, the scenery is uniquely attractive.
A Walk in a Cool, Verdant Landscape
It’s well worth taking the walk from Aristi to the bridge of Klidonia, which, amongst other things, has the advantage of not being overly tiring – a key factor for hiking novices or on very hot days. We gave it a go and had no regrets. Starting at the concrete bridge just past Aristi, having tackled the first uphill bend in the road towards Papingo, we find the start of the trail. Along the way, we admire the geological formations, the caves and the unique nature of the region.
Another option, combining swimming – if there’s enough water – and walking is the trail that begins at Mikro Papingo and ends at the Pools, a truly magical landscape with towering rocks, shaped due to the erosion of the ground by the Rogovo stream. The rocky riverbed has been transformed into a natural sculpture with small waterfalls, various water levels and minimal human intervention, apart from a small dam at the start of the trail. You can also reach this spot by car.
Samarina and the Aoos Springs
On the last day of this undoubtedly cool excursion, we went to Samarina, the liveliest and most famous Vlach village. At an altitude of 1,450 metres, it’s considered the highest settlement in the Balkans, and owes its reputation to the folk song “Children of Samarina”. The village is very scenic, with stone houses, cobblestone alleys, restored water mills, traditional coffee shops and taverns. The pride of the village is the church of Megali Panagia (Great Virgin), with a large pine tree that is rooted inside the sanctuary, but the route to get there from Aristi is equally delightful, with the car winding up and down the slopes of Smolikas surrounded by dense forests.
Our final major stop in Epirus was the Lake of Aoos Springs. The artificial lake, created by the works of the Public Power Corporation, sits at an altitude of 1,350 metres and appears just like a natural lake. At such a height, there is certainly coolness, even when the temperature in Athens at the time was exceeding 41 degrees Celcius. There was even more coolness a bit later when we bathed in the river and at some of the “beaches” that form along its banks.
The journey to the airport rolled smoothly and quietly, thanks to the car we rented from Avis. Both the choice of the car and the destination proved extremely successful, and we’ll most likely aim to find ourselves in the mountains of Epirus again in the upcoming autumn and winter months. Thanks to the many great deals from Avis, this will be easy to achieve.
