Arriving in Greece for the first time in 1990, after years of adventurous travel – which seems to be an innate vehicle for his incessant exploration of food – and earlier, since his teens, training as a chef in the top Parisian schools and Michelin-starred restaurants, Herve Pronzato has established himself as one of the country’s most outstanding and exemplary chefs. With a singular culinary identity, and a force to be reckoned with in the kitchen, he opened Herve in Petralona a few years ago with co-owners George Efthimopoulos and Grigoris Kikis, setting a challenging – and exciting – new standard in Athens’ fine dining scene.
In my many years of writing about gastronomy, I have rarely been so intrigued to not only meet and congratulate, but to gain a deeper understanding of the person behind the whole concept of the kitchen, as I was with Pronzato. The way in which his 17-course tasting menu seamlessly blends reimagined influences from the Mediterranean, France, Asia, the Middle East and South America, resulting in food that is incredible to look at and always a tantalising and playful surprise, made meeting the awarded chef a must.
In our interview, I was delighted to discover that Chef Herve, as his staff call him, is as I had imagined and more – deep, imaginative yet very pragmatic in his creations, visionary, outspoken, humble, amiable and rebellious, in the sense of not having to conform to limiting standards, as well as wondrously intuitive and wildly humorous. Here he talks about his life and vision for his restaurant, the city’s constantly-shifting gastronomic scene and his plans for inspiring future ventures. When I arrived to the restaurant in the afternoon for our interview, I got to see it in broad daylight, as usually the curtains are drawn, the lights are low, and the vibe resonates with the creative edginess of not just the menu but also the bold street art by Andy Barker and Wall Street on the stone walls. Music was playing loud, and the young cooking team were prepping away, their energy buzz palpable and contagious from all corners of the large open space. Their hard-working daylight party vibe revealed what one can taste in the food here – a feel-good, high-energy, unpretentious yet decidedly unique art.
How did it all begin for you?
As a child I spent a lot of time cooking with my grandmother, who was a fantastic cook and taught me a lot. meanwhile, my other grandmother and grandfather would take me to eat at Michelin Star restaurants in Paris from as early as six years of age. So, I grew up learning to enjoy, cook with and understand food.
In my teens I entered the Ferrandi cooking school in Paris, which is one of the top three in the world, and I was doing my practice from 16 years old at Michelin star restaurants in Paris. I was crap in school – not that I wasn’t a good student, but it depended on the teacher – if I didn’t like the teacher, I wouldn’t do anything! After that, at around 23 years of age, I started to move away from France – to Spain, England, Scotland, and eventually to Greece, in 1990. I wanted to see the world a little bit. Anywhere that I have lived or travelled to, I always take inspiration from the country. The reflection of that is the mix and match of everything like we do here at Herve restaurant.
Which countries have you travelled to?
In Europe, to almost every country, except Scandinavia. I went to Turkey, where I worked as a consultant in Istanbul for a big company for around seven years, while during the summers I was working in Halkidiki at Danai Beach Resort, and I also spent some years in the Middle East, and Southeast Asia. My most recent big trip abroad was to Mexico, where I was for a month last year.
What was your experience of Mexico like?
I didn’t really enjoy Mexico City as much as I’d anticipated; there is a pollution problem that makes the air almost unbearable and at the same time there’s a feeling of insecurity in some areas, possibly due to the drug cartel. I never had such a feeling in Asia. But I would definitely go back to the countryside, it’s more authentic.
When you travel, what do you look for as a chef and as an individual?
One of the first things I do anywhere I travel is to go to the main food markets to see the products, to see what they don’t have that I don’t know. Also, if I see something that I don’t know I try to learn how they do things. I’m always learning. I cannot handle a chef who says, ‘I know everything, and I have nothing left to learn’, because this is a pure lie for me. In cooking, if you look for new things you will always find them. Even one simple ingredient can be cooked in so many different ways and become so many things. That’s the good thing about cooking, you never get bored.
What is your next scheduled trip?
Japan. It’s a big trip and it’ll cost a lot the way I have it in my mind, so I’m preparing for it. I’ve never been there, and I will be travelling across the whole country, for at least a month.
What has drawn you to Greece?
I first came in 1990 and left in 2013 and then I came in 2019, which is when I opened the restaurant. In between I went to Malaysia and also worked in Bangkok and consulting in China and Bahrain. I returned because I love Greece, the whole thing – the weather, the people, the chaos, everything! Also, I need sun, I couldn’t live in northern Europe for example.
Have you travelled a lot through Greece? Any favourite places?
Yes, I’ve travelled most of Greece and have been from East to West and North to South. It’s lovely everywhere you go.
What are the main changes you’ve seen in the restaurant scene in Athens since you first arrived in 1990?
It’s much ‘higher’ than it used to be, that’s for sure, and there’s now a great focus on modern, more European, Asian or whatever. But I feel that the traditional Greek taverna is not as good as it used to be. If for example, you go to Troon street here in Petralona, they all have the same menu. It’s not varied like it used to be.
Do you think they’re trying to cater to public demand?
No, I don’t think so, I think they have taken a different route, and I don’t know why. I’ve talked about it with Greek cooks a lot of the time and they agree. I used to love it when they came with the big tray with all the mezes – you don’t see this anymore. Now it’s mostly the same stuff. I don’t go out that much but if I go out, I dine at a simple taverna as much as a high-end gourmet place.
What is your personal concept for Herve restaurant?
We have dishes in all categories – veggie dishes, now we have cappelletti, and fish, meat, everything. We cook for all kinds of people – from 20-year-olds to people in their 80s, from ministers and other personalities to people who are interested in trying something different. We have a nice clientele. Since we opened, we have kept some dishes, like the quail egg for example, but periodically change other dishes.
We also have a vegetarian menu upon request. Unfortunately, it’s not possible to do a vegan menu – we tried it once and it was too complicated because it required a whole range of specialised ingredients for a small demand. In the Christmas/New Year period, we created 10 new dishes which we integrated into the menu.
In terms of the decor and ambience, I love street art, which is why I have artworks by Banksy and Wall Street – and I like to create contrast between fine dining and more casual vibes. I don’t like the classic stiff, pretentious style of fine dining restaurants, with waiters dressed like penguins, and in summer people can even come here in their bermudas.
How do you decide what you’re going to put into your dishes?
We’re always doing something new, and for me, it’s very much simply about liking something and deciding to use it in a dish. It’s an intuitive process and has a lot to do with the memory of taste; when we create a new dish, I almost know the exact taste without having to taste it… after 42 years of doing this.
How much do you consider people’s opinions of your dishes?
Taste is very subjective, and if you take 10 people and listen to each one’s opinion it will be impossible! I listen of course, but it’s difficult to analyse, I have to follow my own intuition and judgement.
How do you select the people you work with?
They’re all very young – the average age here is 25-27 years old. I don’t like working with old people, they’re a pain, sorry to say that – in the kitchen I mean of course! Young people have an appetite to learn, a high energy, they are enthusiastic and it keeps me younger too. It’s more fun.
Do you think cooking schools have improved here?
That’s a difficult subject because many of the chefs coming out of cooking school now are picky about the hours and money in the job. Of course, I understand, but everyone knows that working in a restaurant is not about completing your 8-hour routine every day. Here we are a really Zen place, we always work in a really great atmosphere, and they’re all great personalities.
Do you ever act like a stereotyped chef, losing your temper and shouting?
No way, that’s forbidden here! No shouting and no swearing are allowed – by anyone. I’m very strict about that. You can say the same thing in a calmer, better way, and it’s even more effective.
Do you cook at home?
Yeah, I do. Simple stuff, anything, it depends on my mood. I don’t like takeaways and things like that.
What are your favourite flavours? In my experience dining here there is always an element of surprise.
Anything and everything; I don’t have a favourite ingredient. For me, all products are at the same level, regardless of whether they are cheap or expensive. As for the surprise, that’s the goal, the purpose of it! I think that at a lot of fine dining places, the tastes are too refined, and the taste is thus lost. The presentation may be beautiful but there isn’t much flavour, and I’m not a fan of that.
What would you advise people who love to cook?
No pain, no gain. Practice, practice, practice, taste, taste, taste. If you don’t work hard, you don’t achieve anything. Unless you’re born rich. If you work at things, you’ll always gain. Of course, cooking is also a matter of sensitivity; you also have to feel – you must feel the product.
Any favourite places you like to shop at?
Usually, I buy from suppliers but otherwise, I go to Rendi, which is the best market, although I like Varvakeios too.
Have you thought of doing something else in the future, a different kind of restaurant?
Yes, I would like to open a French bistro, but really French, not expensive, with an authentic atmosphere. There isn’t something like this in Greece. All the ‘supposed’ French that we have in Athens are ‘has been’ – they’ve had the same menu for the last 20 years. Except Veritable, which is my favourite French place here. We were about to open in 2020 just before the first COVID-19 quarantine happened, so we put our plans on hold.
You don’t get rich having a restaurant, but I like it because it’s freedom. No one tells you what to do. I do what I want. Sometimes I can be here for 16 hours, and some days I do something away from here, like travel across the world and research food.
