I swear, I will never forget; it was afternoon. Milopotas, the most famous beach of the island, had begun emptying out. For staying out late until dawn, requires a little siesta. Lying on my sunbed, I was in the middle of one of these amazing catnaps that one spends entire winters dreaming of.
Alexander was sitting beside me, immersed in his book, quiet, as if he had vowed, by all costs, not to disturb me. I opened my eyes. The sunbeds had already been arranged into piles in a back corner, everything was bathed in warm hues of orange, and the sea was more serene than ever. A thunderous silence. It is often this calm, you know, as all beach bars are located on the upper side of the road and, thus, regardless of the time of your arrival, in the end, it is just you, nature and the more or less annoying folks around you. I stood up and wondered myself towards the water and, while walking my way back, I said: “This is the most beautiful island in this whole world, possibly even, in the whole universe…”
So this is what Ios is to me: a vibrant multicultural sanctuary, able to offer a little bit of everything; a little bit of the famous clichés, as well as all those things that, personally, help me get through winter. Today, I will dwell on the latter.
I’m not from here. I had been here before, but in the dizziness of my youth I hadn’t paid much attention to the magic of the island. Yet, four years I ago I came back and ever since neither have I visited, nor do I plan to visit another island. Some islands do that to you. They become home for you and remain indelibly engraved in your heart.
I always wake up in Yialos Hotel, located, in my view, in the most convenient part of the island, Yialos. I always stay in the same room, in the center of the exotic, yet, simple hotel and, as soon as I open my eyes, I take my first dip in the pool while Flora, our hostess, prepares my coffee and omelette.
I always spend my first day on the island in Mylopotas. I choose to sit somewhere in the middle of the vast beach, because that’s where I have discovered through the years that it suits me best. On the one side of the beach, you see, where thirsty little pouty faces are getting sprayed with Evian mineral water, it is way too cosmopolitan. It’s not for me. The other side of the beach is occupied by the famous campsite. The latter looks a lot more like a five star commune of young people swarming about from every corner of the world, rather than what one brings in mind when hearing the word “camping”. No, I could never sit there. Yet, it is a big part of the island’s soul and I wholeheartedly respect that.
The first meal on the island is always at Drakos, at the end of this same beach. Earlier, not only has Alexandros booked a table, but he has personally chosen a fish for us, too. Imagine that; you sit on a mound above the waves, octopuses hanging above you, wind surfers still enjoying the bay on your left, while boiled greens (chorta), French fries, the surprisingly delicious koloktipa(slipper lobster) and the delectable linguini with lush homemade tomato sauce arrive one by one on your table.
Night is coming on. We are going to Hora –the main town on the island, of course. The latter is beautiful, filled with rambling alleys that still confuse me to this day. I often wonder how foreign visitors find their way around, especially the young shot-addled folks. Yep. I cannot tell you a lie; you’ll be seeing those, too. It’s August and we are in Ios. We have all been promised an earthly Garden of Eden and plenty of apples to bite into – shouldn’t we seek them out?
There are plenty of people who come to Hora just to walk around or browse in the shops. Here, you may find fantastic jewellery stores and vintage shops. You might even feel tempted to buy that t-shirt with the naughty innuendos!
Ios Hora has pretty much everything. On the face of it, some notice first the all-white, beautifully lit Panagia Gremniotissa at the top, while others (myself included), as soon as they arrive at the parking lot, catch sight of the bushy palm trees.
Ios is not just another island, and what I end up liking the most is its unique vibe; a combination of relaxed jazzy evenings, that one can enjoy at Valsamo Bar, and mainstream cocktail nights at Click or Ios Club. Nightfall might also find you at the world famous Slammer Bar, laughing at the folk right next to you, while he is asking the bartender to slam him on the head with a hammer!! With a helmet on of course, what did you think?! At Barmacy, you can dance all your worries away until first light. But the night is not the greatest asset of this place, at least not if you are over 30. I am.
The day is dawning. You take the car and go to Manganarri, a series of sandy coves that shape into four smaller beaches. Although they seem endless, all four beaches get way too crowded by noon. So, if you want to get a sunbed, you need to be there early. Unless you don’t. Thankfully, the beach is wide and you can sit wherever you want. Vast, blonde sands, crystal clear, yet warm and shallow waters; everything you’ve ever dreamed a paradise beach to be. Plus, this beach is family-friendly. If you decide, moreover, to stay after the big crowds leave and watch the sunset, there is no way you won’t feel blessed. And, don’t worry if you need to quench your thirst and hunger, there are plenty of options here.
Ios is for anyone looking for a place to unwind. So, pack a couple of swimsuits, a pair of shorts and lots of t-shirts. You may also bring with you one or two of those dresses that will, most probably, remain in the bottom of your suitcase, but, for heaven’s sake, leave your dress shoes back at home.
Don’t miss the chance to rent a boat from the port and, if you do, ask them to take you to those beaches you cannot approach otherwise, as there are many to suit all tastes. Particularly, one should definitely see Pikri Nero and spend a day at Tripiti. Then and only then, will you believe me when I say that there is no place like Ios.
Where are you going to eat? Lots of choices, yet, I still stick to my favourites. If I were up for funky gourmet, I would probably go to Mykonos, and if I were craving for a delicious pitta-gyro or a sexy burger, I would stay in Athens. So, I stick to the originals.
For great fish, do not miss the aforementioned Drakos at Mylopotas beach. Another scrumptious choice is Koumbara, the tavern located on the beach with the same name. Here, at sunset, you will dine to the sound of Pavarotti’s voice. Yet, try not to feel surprised by the subsequent music choices.
Everybody talks about Lord Byron, an internationally renowned gastronomic attraction, located in the centre of Ios Hora, which you cannot miss. Here, you’ll relish philhellenic cuisine at its best. Another must-go is Katogi, where you’ll savour Greek tapas and cocktails, an ideal summer combination.
For meat, I would suggest Vilaetti, just outside Hora, for ribs and toothsome moussaka. Or Psathi, a tavern you will find on your way back from Manganari.
On Saturdays, I always find myself at Polydoras’ tavern, for that’s when he prepares my favourite, traditionally Greek delicacy, namely, escargots in sapid tomato sauce. Besides this not to be missed dish, I would also recommend Polydoras’ amazing stews, which he prepares on a daily basis.
Oh, and definitely pay a visit to Salt, the most elegant and, at the same time, cool beach restaurant on the island. And, I bet, you will order twice the ceviche (trust me, Michael Nurloglou has done his magic), you’ll definitely want to try all the different kinds of flatbreads, which you may pair with a delightful wine from the menu. Close to the harbour, you will find a similarly tempting and sophisticated restaurant called Ithaca. This gem of a restaurant specializes in fish, offering a wide range of fresh and creative dishes that may vary from day to day.
Monday afternoons are for tsipouro with friends at Kafenes, a beautiful small coffee and bar in Gialos. Very close to Kafenes, you will find Thai me Up, which paradoxically serves authentic Pad Thai! And bizarre as it may seem, do not miss the chance to try it! Personally, I always get a Pad Thai to-go that I can enjoy aboard on my way back home. One last edible token of Ios, the island that loves reggae as much as jazz, that revels both in sophistication and simplicity. For Ios has a bohemian heart.
Everything I know about Ios, I learned from Dimitris, a man who loves his island profoundly. Thank you very much, you beautiful and generous summer soul
