Insider’s View: ‘I always want to return to Folegandros’

There is no potable water, but there is life; simple human life. You’ll hear songs and friendly greetings while walking in Hora- the main town on the island- in the morning. There is a wealth of culture and there are no umbrellas and sunbeds on the beach.

Indeed, there are no sunbeds. I repeat there are no sunbeds; it is precisely this symbolism that makes it unique, barren and wonderful.

There are shadows, there are tamarisks, and there are coves and small caves. You even get the primal joy of laying your towel on the shore or even lying down straight on the inviting shiny pebbles that won’t stain you at all.

There is rakomelo, and I think Folegandros was one of the places where it first appeared. There is great cheese, everyone makes some. The most famous one is drained, soft and fresh. There is Gylotyri (cheese aged in wine sediments) and Manoura and Dristi- these are only just a few of the many different types of cheese made in Folegandros. Recently, a new creamery, which operates to international health standards, was set up on the island, producing more special and aged cheeses.

There is also honey, very good actually, with a special aroma that makes it stand out.

There are two big villages on the island; Hora and Ano Meria. The former is the main settlement, with 316 inhabitants, built on a hill on the eastern side of the island. Hora is absolutely car-free, so be prepared to live as if you were at the set of a wonderful Hollywood movie; everything is in place; everything is as it should be, with minor exceptions, of course. There are four main squares where you can wine and dine. In the evening it feels like being invited to a huge wedding party, a reception atmosphere prevails.

Go to “Asygritos” for delicious homemade kontosouvli, to “Kritikos” for grilled steak, to “Spitiko” for escargots, and to “Melissa” just to meet Lady Katina and her girls. There’s also “Restaurant Chic”, which looks like it jumped out of a polished postcard; an original, neo-traditional café, producing its own basic products. Personally, I always go to “Piatsa Restaurant” for amazing views and delicious bites by Master Pavlos, who will also talk to you about wakeboards and will certainly guide you “for the perfect wave and a good surf spot”. I once had capers stew at “Goupi”, one of the delicacies that definitely make it into the top10 of Cycladic gastronomy.

In the morning when you wake up, you have to go to Pounta square for two reasons: to observe the weather and decide where to go swimming accordingly, and to eat your breakfast at the square’s renowned all-day restaurant of the same name. “Pounta” used to be a meeting point for freelance Sophists under the guidance of the great, recently descended philosopher, Takis Giouris.

For coffee –and I mean real good coffee- I’d suggest “Thema Chronou” and “Ydrochoos” (the oldest café bar in Hora). Yet, if you are looking for a modern espresso bar, “Parasagas” is the place. Besides great coffee, they also serve excellent homemade ice cream that they prepare on a daily basis. When in the mood, moreover, they produce flavours that even the best gelaterias in Italy would envy, such as prickly pear, watermelon and traditional Greek brittle (pasteli).

The other village, namely Ano Meria, is located further north, has a population of 291 inhabitants and is the most traditional part of the island. It is a rural settlement with peculiar rustic complexes, which in the past constituted an independent residential unit -the so called “themonies”. Here, if you are lucky, you will hear a single violin rivalling the song of the north wind. Anomerians are nice people, hard-working, they pave wonderful dry stone walls, play music, cook and compete in fishing; they give rhythm to the island with their insistence to live against time, the seasons and the wind.

There are also nice, neat taverns with gleaming white patios. Ever since I was a kid, I have been going to “Synantisi”. Among all those things that make me come back every time is their standards of cleanliness and consistency in quality over the years. Everything may change around us, but here the cheese pies remain the same, with high gastronomic ethics, as do the matsata (traditional pasta, made by hand) and the friendly smiles.

And if you go to Boukla, either in winter or summer, you will eat well; you will hear something good and meet someone old.

I rarely like souvlaki but Maragoudiko is an exception; be prepared to spend surreal nights here, with lots of cold beer, especially if you happen to be there on a party animal night.

Agali only resembles Psarrou (famous beach in Mykonos Island) in that, if you want to show off your swimsuit, you can. Agali is also a meeting point with awesome little tavernas situated on the slope above the beach and nice cliffs where you can dive from. And if you want to take off your swimsuit, you can. Swim to the next beach, Fira, and stay late to enjoy the beautiful sunset.

Petousis and Karavostasis -the port of the island, which is located at its south-eastern end- are smaller settlements. “Karavostasis” is perhaps the most beautiful port name in the whole world. If you can call this a port, of course, since it has been under construction for the last many years, and yet, it does the job. There is nothing more permanent than temporary.

Zacharias is in charge of the boat Panagia of Tinos (the only wooden speedster left on the island), the youngest of the fishermen, a second-generation professional angler, who would have easily given up on another island to become a debt-ridden hotelier, but the sea needs guts, perseverance and respect. I heard that this year he is organising an experience for small groups that will include fishing and cooking. Near him, like a big family, Lefteris, Christogiannis, Koroniatis Jr, all young guys, fellow fishermen, like sea rangers watching over the Aegean Sea and living off it.

Early in the morning you are sure to find great fish and, if you are curious, you might learn a fishing secret or two. The only place here to serve snacks along with the always cold beer is Dal Capo.

Produces culture in its own way

The island is stylish, it doesn’t imitate, and it’s original. It is not pretentious at all, it brings out the most social side of you, yet, at the same time, it makes you throw away the kitsch exaggeration of the cosmopolitan. It is a true gem that does not need other expensive materials to be highlighted. It has completely differentiated itself from the out-dated cosmopolitan islands and is charting its own course, producing culture in its own way. Its calm atmosphere leads you to absolute relaxation; its people go along with discretion and professionalism.

In Folegandros you can swim without being run over by a jet ski, peacefully, coast to coast; it’s ideal for open water swimming. Depart from Agali, take the path to Galyfos (only 20 minute walk), leave your belongings here and swim to Agios Nikolaos beach (500 meters away). The latter is among the best beaches on the island, with bowery tamarisks. There is, of course, a boat with regular itineraries; just don’t forget to bring with you your water resistant, hyper-smart watch so you can pay the bill at the enchanting hippie chic little tavern, up high, overlooking the pirates coming for the evening party.

In Hora, at Baraki -a classic island atmosphere- is where you will get drunk with some house music and you might dance like an auld lover.

You wake up early in the morning because you sleep early at night, there are no clubs, but there is good music and decent drinks, and there are trails. The trail from Hora to Agali via Tsagaraki is an easy, nice walk for beginners, 45 minutes at most. Then, if you get bored and don’t fell like taking the uphill way back, you can always take the local bus. For the more hardy ones, there are plenty of walking options: Voreina, Fyra, Serfiotiko. Almost all of the trails end up at a beach (do not forget to take water and some snacks with you).

If you fancy walking you may not even need a car on the island. If you don’t feel like walking, that means you’ve probably been drinking cocktails at Beez, the island’s most up-to-date cocktail bar, or singing in Astarte. Never has a pizza place been as romantic as Zimaraki, with its sophisticated terrace overlooking Hora, where you can relax while tasting the fresh pasta produced daily with hard work and passion; perhaps the place with the most loving atmosphere, effortless luxury and the most genuine sense of hospitality.

A classic route for an afternoon walk at sunset and manic hashtag summer photo shoots is Panagia, the church on the top of a rock cut by a pirate’s knife. Otherwise you could head down to Rakentia for a negroni in the colours of the sun with whatever dose of music is needed to frame the painting.

Built in the 13th century by the Venetian Marcos Sanoudos, Kastro in Hora is a mysterious settlement worth exploring, ideal for a hide-and-seek hunt and raki with a relaxed socio-political discussion in the two cafes located at its gates.

Spend all day by the beach. There are a lot of options. Get on a boat and go around, only then will you understand exactly how much beauty we are talking about. Breath-taking rocks and pristine waters; you don’t always need a beach to swim. There are wonderful bays with a calm and welcoming bottom; there is even a spot for clay therapy.

I forgot about Katergo. All coasts are great, but Katergo is more than that. If you are Ironman, you can walk there. Otherwise, you need to ask the Captain to take you.

You always come back to Folegandros, there is still something to see and experience, it has a history with strong personalities caught in its nets. You always have something to talk about; it’s like a source of energy that fills your batteries. By the way, with an e-bike you can ride around the island. All you need is to surrender to its magic and simply swim in its waters.

For Laoumi, the oldest bar of the island, a special tribute will follow.