A glance at the map of Evrytania is enough to understand that its heart beats in the south, between the mountains Velouhi, Helidona and Kaliakouda with the valley of Karpenisiotis and the popular villages – Megalo and Mikro Ηorio, Proussos, Nostimo, Voutiro, the southernmost Krikello.
To the north lie the Agrafa of Karpenisi with their own beautiful and less known villages. On the edge, before the formidable mountains of Agrafa begin to rise, there is Lake Kremasta, bordering the prefecture of Evrytania and the prefecture of Aetoloakarnania.
The route moves south-east and part of it crosses the so-called semi-mountainous Agrafa which was our goal. Half of the route belongs to the municipality of Karpenisi and the other half to the municipality of Agrafa.
We recommend you to follow the route without a long stay at monuments and sights. The magnificent nature, the stone Doric architecture of the villages and the human absence that tell their own story is the ultimate, the dominant attraction.
Start from Karpenisi taking the road to Agrinio. Fill up with fuel, check your tyres, grab your snow chains and ask if there are any landslides or roads cut by a stream.
After Bagasaki location, perched on a ridge of Mount Tymfristos (Velouhi) at 1.200m, where the famous hotel – tavern Bagasaki Inn (+30 22370 21360) is also located, a long downhill begins. Incredible landscapes, successive wild towering mountains, endless gorges, water everywhere.
As you continue your route, you will pass by the leafy and deserted village of Ano Kalesmeno (900 m).At some point the inhabitants moved to the village of Kalesmeno, at a lower altitude and on more fertile ground, where their fields were located. In the village of Kalesmeno, at the end of July, takes place the yearly mulberry festival and the famous local mulberry-flavoured liquor, which is strong and fragrant, is made. Kalesmeno is one of the so-called “politohoria” of Evrytania. They were so named when in the 19th and early 20th century many of its residents emigrated to Istanbul. Magnificent mansions were built with the money they sent home. If you wish to one of the most beautiful and peaceful houses of the village, the charming guest-house “Amalia” is just the ideal choice for you (+30 6947 819478).
Megdova bridge
By now, you should be really close to the iron bridge of Megdova river. Austere and impressive, it exudes a fierce, Doric flair that somehow fascinates and makes you shudder at the landscape’s immense power. Make a stop to enjoy the view of the gushing river, take some photos, have a nice cup of coffee or to grab a bite. “Hani Megdova” is waiting for you (697 433 3535). Try fried trout topped with butter, deliciously grilled meat and mouth-watering spoon sweets (sweet preserves).
At the exit of the bridge and a little further up is the now abandoned settlement of Parkio, which belongs to the local district of Marathiades. Here you leave the municipality of Karpenisi and you are welcomed by the municipality of Agrafa. Megdova (Tavropos) starts from the prefecture of Karditsa, is interrupted by the Tavropos dam and forms Lake Plastiras. It continues to run vertically through Evrytania and, together with the rivers Acheloos, Agrafiotis and Trikeriotis, ends up in the artificial lake of Kremasta. It is precisely this route of Megdova in Evrytania that is the richest, the most beautiful part of its 78 km route in total, as it passes through its lush green landscapes.
Take the uphill and at the junction, if you wish, head towards the historic old village of Viniani, where the Political Committee for National Liberation or Government of the Mountain was founded on 10 March 1944 – there is also the National Resistance Museum in the old primary school.
Marathias, East Fragista, Agios Georgios
Continuing on the main road, follow the sign to Messaios Marathias, another “politohori” (called thus because of the relationship of its inhabitants with Constantinople). Going downhill you’ll find yourself in a magical place. Lovely abandoned stone houses, a deserted square with a church, narrow cobbled streets and a kind old fellow, 80-year-old Konstantinos Dianemos, sitting outside his house. The village has nine inhabitants. Does he live alone? No, he lives with his “old lady”, as he says. In Kato Marathias? “There is a girl who lives all alone”.
Return to the main road and head towards East Fragista. Just before you enter the village, you will be moved by a unique plane tree next to a lonely chapel and the subtle sound of running water. Inside the village, which is also a “politohori”, there is the bust and house of the former Prime Minister Georgios Kafantaris (1924). There is also a Folklore Museum (6977960232) with objects from the rural past of the village and relics from Constantinople.
You take the road again, already approaching Lake Kremasta. The next village is Agios Georgios – mountains and rivers still all around you. A little further up, in Neohori – if the time’s right- you’ll be immersed in the most magical sunset you’ve ever dreamt of. The lake will appear in front of you in all its glory. Glittering, sapphire, with lacy shores and fjords and islets. Overwhelming beauty.
An exotic lake in the bosom of the mountains
Lake Kremasta is the largest artificial lake in Greece and was created with the construction of the Kremasta hydroelectric dam in 1965, which collects the waters of the rivers Acheloos, Agrafiotis, Megdova (Tavropos) and Trikeriotis. The bridge connecting the two prefectures is 700 metres long and 9 metres wide. It is supported by seven pillars, of which the three pillars in the water are 85 m high.
It took its name from the village of Episkopi, the largest part of which can be found today at the bottom of the lake, along with the 8th century Byzantine church of Episkopi dedicated to the Virgin Mary (part of the frescoes are in the interactive Evrytania Cultural History Centre, https://www.kipe.gr/).
The project contributed significantly to the electrification of the country, but required the “sacrifice” of 20 villages, some of which now lie under its waters, while others were abandoned by their inhabitants. At the bottom of the lake, apart from the church of Episkopi, there are also other cultural monuments, such as the Manolis bridge built by the famous Epirus craftsman Manolis Chryssiotis. Progress has its price.
So far all you can do is admire the view and the lake and hike around its shores. However, it is likely that from next year a range of water sports will be offered – canoeing, kayaking, rafting, boat rides, skiing, etc. For more information about the lake and the activities, contact Panagiotis Makris (+30 6973 585287). Sit in the elevated café-grill “Thea” (the view, +30 6978 452599) for coffee, delicious food and some romance with an incredible view. In front of you lies the village square, which locals call the balcony of Agrafa.
Fidakia
Leaving behind the village of Episkopi, pass as slowly as you can over the magnificent bridge so as not to miss a single glimpse of the thousands of shades of blue and green that alternate on its surface. Proceed to the legendary for its beauty village of Fidakia and if time permits, take a shortcut to the village of Agia Vlaherna.
You are already on the outskirts of Mount Helidona, in the municipality of Karpenisi, and you have left the municipality of Agrafa. Until 1930, the village was called Erkista (Slavic name) and was renamed Agia Vlaherna by its inhabitants who had lived in Constantinople, where there was a church of the same name. The church of Panagia Vlaherna is located on a hill and is celebrated on July 2. In summer you can swim in the waters of the Trikeriotis River that runs through the village.
Return to the main road and head towards Tsagaralona. From this wind-battered position with its stone benches and cloistered trees you will have the best view of Kremasta Lake as well as the seemingly endless successive mountain tops. As you proceed towards Fidakia, the village reveals itself nestled on the opposite forested slope of Helidona (altitude 920 m), densely built and beautiful.
Leave your car in the parking lot and enter like an actor in a theatre scene – no cars are allowed in the village. Everything is stone-built and paved; the houses – two-storey buildings with tiled roofs and flowering courtyards- the alleys, as well as the square with the church of the Birth of the Virgin Mary. Symmetrical, ordered, consistent in their aesthetics. Everything is very quiet and very peaceful. Like a postcard. Wonderful view of Lake Kremasta, a nice guest-house and the excellent tavern Oihalia with the exuberant temperament of Mr. Christos, cook and owner of the tavern, who makes up for those nomads missing from the village (+30 22370 22890, +30 22370 24554, +30 6983 095933).
According to some, this is the ancient Oihalia, the old capital of Evrytania. The village experienced mass emigration of its inhabitants to the United States in the 1950s and 1960s, who never forgot their village and with their hard-earned money managed to build it, preserve it and make it famous for its beauty.
By the time the route reaches its end, it will be dark. Return to Karpenisi following the route Milia, Sela, Bagasaki.
