There are three gorgeous little villages hiding among the mountains Oeta, Giona and Vardousia, within lush vegetation ideal for a weekend of true relaxation.
Vargiani: for card games and tsipouro (traditional pomace raki) at the coffee shop
Distance: Athens – Vargiani 201 km
Built on the Northwest side of Parnassus mountain, with mount Giona on one side and mount Oeta on the other, the small cute village of Vargiani, at 890 m. altitude is, of course, surrounded by fir trees. You’ll reach the village via Kastro and Amfiklia and around Gravia you’ll take the winding road that leads to the centre of Vargiani and the square that is covered in plane trees, the village’s main meeting point. That’s the location of the only traditional coffee shop of the village, where you’ll have your first coffee for the day and also your tsipouro later on, at night, while you play cards with the regulars. The village has few permanent residents, in the summer it’s livelier, in the winter it turns into the perfect place to rest and isolate.
A walk around the village, between the low stone house and the surrounding green, is beautiful and relaxing. Walk to the Bourboula springs underneath the large plane trees for some cool water, pass by the stone chapel of Agios Athanasios and pay a visit to the small folklore museum, at the village square, that includes mainly ecclesiastical exhibits. A beautiful hike among the fir trees with stunning view is the trail to Profitis Ilias church. The biggest sight here is Neraidospilia (the cave of the fairies) where the fairies of mount Parnassus used to live, with the stone basins that fill with water, and the stalagmites and stalactites, hidden away in the dense forest. The cave is on the southeast of Vargiani, at an altitude of nearly 1400 m. and is 100 m. long, consisting of two chambers. The trail starts at the Bourboula springs and is marked throughout, while at the harder spots rope has been placed to help hikers. The trail is accessible in the beginning but then becomes harder so don’t attempt it if you don’t have at least basic equipment, like proper shoes and clothes, and of course water and a flashlight. The trail takes about two hours to complete but of course it depends on your fitness levels.
Tip: the mining park Vagonetto, 10 km away from the village, is also worth a visit. You’ll learn about the process of bauxite mining step by step (www.vagonetto.gr).
Accommodation
Ifigenia Guesthouse: fully equipped stone-built studios with incredible views. (2265091071, 6937769396)
Arhontolithos Guesthouse: a very neat guesthouse with spacious rooms each one with its own fireplace. (2265091648, 6932185848)
Food
Drosoula (Katiniotis): a traditional tavern next to the Bourboula springs with grilled meats. If you’re lucky you might go on a day they have prepared casserole dishes. (2265091728)
Zervas: in the village’s square with a lovely view, offering grilled meats, ‘gardoubakia’ (traditional lamb dish made with intestines) etc. (6936999380)
Oinochori: the ‘ascetic’ village – for introspection and rest
Distance: Athens – Oinochori 206 km
Oinochori, known in the past as Pano Kaniani, is a small village in Fokida, built at an 870 m. altitude between mount Giona and mount Oeta, in the shadow of Parnassus, and it is mostly known among the hunters, as it is within the wider controlled hunting area of Parnassida, and also among the hikers. The road there is narrow and winding, the houses are few, while at the entrance you’re welcomed by fir trees, plane trees, walnuts and chestnuts. Oinochori is literally buried in green and the euphoria the clean air, the nature, and the view of Parnassus and Kallidromo mountains cause is unique.
You should come here for a weekend of total relaxation, not the kind with spas and massages, but the one that includes your favourite book and a steamy coffee, the one in which you’ll be wearing your sneakers walking in beautiful nature next to running waters, the relaxation that needs no planning of where to go next, where to eat, where to go out, after all in Oinochori there isn’t even a coffee shop; the only guesthouse is also the tavern.
It may be small, still it has many points of interest and between your morning coffee and your evening wine you can go see the stone church of Agia Ekaterini in the centre of the village and from there head towards the Katero spring, or a bit further away to Kefalovriso, the largest spring in the area with the huge plane trees. From there you can go to the neighbouring village of Kaloskopi, walking next to a small river. On the road towards Gravia and Kastelia, at the entrance of the village, there is the Psilo Kotroni, a large rock many climbers visit, and if you’re one of them, the view from the top of the surrounding mountains is magical. To Loutro tou Irakli (Hercules’ Bath), a beautiful spot with running waters, is in the village Pira, about half an hour away from Oinochori. 5 km away you’ll find Hercules’ Temple, at the location ‘Marmara’, where, according to legend, the demigod died. Even though only some remains of the temple still stand, the dirt path there, among the firs, is beautiful, but be careful, there are some harder spots.
Accommodation & food: Driopi Guesthouse, open during the winter Fridays-Sundays. Simple, neat rooms, and also fully equipped wooden cabins. At the guesthouse’s ground floor there is also a tavern offering grilled meats. (6944270318)
Mavrolithari: a natural lookout of Giona and Vardousia
Distance: Athens – Mavrolithari 251 km
To get to Mavrolithari you’ll need to be patient as it’ a bit over three hourσ drive, with the largest part of the road being winding, after all you’re going up a mountain. The view from the centre of the village however – at 1.140 m. height – towards Giona and Vardousia is truly stunning. The shortest route is the Athens – Lamia National Road, where shortly after you pass Thermopiles you head towards Bralos and Pavliani. Right after you leave Pavliani behind, on your right there is a dirt road that leads to the Oeta National Park, if you have time and are in the mood you can go walk in the pristine fir tree forest and fill your lungs with oxygen, however, if it’s hunting season it’s best to avoid it. Continue on your way and you’ll stop right in Mavrolithari’s large square, with the huge plane tree, over 300 years old. At your back you’ll have the village and the fir-covered slopes and in front of you the bald tops of Vardousia and Giona mountains, a view you won’t be able to get enough of, especially if they’re covered in snow. Mavrolithari during the winter doesn’t have more than 10 permanent residents, and of course has no cafés or bars, just the traditional coffee shop in the municipal guesthouse on the square, so your main activities here are sleeping, eating, walking.
A nice walk in Mavrolithari is the route in search of the founts that are spread around the village. The first is at the entrance of the village and is called ‘Arvanitovrisi’ or ‘Aspri Vrisi” (white fount) and it has a marble basin. The springs of ‘Abla’ are next, four-five stone basins with crystal waters, then, the springs of ‘Moutsara’ that are hidden underneath a rock, with a small metal lion head in the middle, while the fourth fount known as ‘Psoromiti’ is a bit higher up, outside the village. Remember, the higher up you go, the better the view. A walk towards Agios Georgios church in the Kato Mahalas area with the small stone fount, or to Agios Haralambos church, or the small chapel of Stavros a bit outside the village are also nice routes. A short car drive within the firs, on a dirt road, is that towards Profitis Ilias church, while if you want a longer drive then go to the lovely little village of Stromi with the small ‘Kremasi’ waterfall just outside the village. Also, in just 20 minutes, you can get to the Oeta refuge, in the location Vrizes, where a café is housed. Here you’ll find an adventure park with various activities for children and adults, while you can also hike, climb, and go mountain biking.
Accommodation
Karaplis Rooms to Let: comfortable, well-kept rooms. (2265062340)
Mavrolithari Inn: in the village’s square, simple rooms with a lovely view. (2265062410)
Food
To Steki tou Karapli: a typical tavern, very well-kept, serving mostly grilled meats. (2265062340)
